Trying to get off the bottle

I’m going to try to get off bottled nutes.

First question, if I’m using GH pH down, am I ruining the soil? If so I’m still stuck on the bottle for this one, if not, read on.

My first go is going to be an Auto that I’m starting off in FFOF.

After it starts to flower I think I might top dress it.

Or should I just use the teas I see being sold?


Just pick up some citric acid crystals. Most grocery stores have them in the canning aisle. It won’t harm your micro herd at all. Takes a small pinch to take me down from 7.4 to 6.5.


My auto is in a solo cup right now.

I’ll transplant into FFOF and use this method. I like it. Thank you.

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I used RO water for my last grow. I never adjusted or check the PH. I read several articles saying that with a living soul you don’t need to adjust it

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Ph down doesn’t make your water acidic enough to kill good bacteria ,and I’m having really good success top dressing and watering with molasses and Epsom salt ( 1/4 Tbsp and 1/2 Tbsp I’m gonna double that for flower and do a full Tbsp of molasses last 2 weeks)


Here’s a secret ultimate pro-tip for ph adjustment. <—————-

Instead of using ph up or down, which jack your ppms way up. For ph down you can use earth juice xatalyst which will barely effect your ppm, add in beneficial enzymes and costs about the same. For ph up you can use most silicate products which raise ppm less and give you silica.

If you top dress make sure to use something that contains molasses which will help with mineralization and give your plant access to your top dressing quicker


That reminds me of hades down from the nectar of the gods (its also 8 $ cheaper)


I remember seeing it cheaper somewhere and it’s monster gardens carry the nectar series for half of what amazon charges (I hear athena is supposed to be a total unique organic supplement that’s supposed to be amazing)

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Will PH down effect your soil microbes? No

Dry nutrients are: Jack’s 321,chemgro 4-20-39, mega crop, and GH has a maxi grow and maxi bloom.
Dry nutrients are much cheaper.

Until you get the basics down don’t worry about anything other than a base nutrient.

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Based on your comment about ruining soil, I’m assuming you’re trying to get off synthetic nutrients entirely. I’m not sure though, and neither are others.

It’s true that microbial life can make a lot of nutrients plant-available out of rocks and sand, but you can also mix dry inputs into your soil (or soilless.) Many growers have had success with large containers with concentric zones of hotter and hotter soil.

IMO, soil is going to involve more trial and error than soilless with synthetic nutrients. It might be worth it to invest in a premium product like Build A Soil blends.

Edit: Unless my water was exceptionally base or acidic, I wouldn’t worry about pH. The buffering capacity of soil is supposed to be one of the big advantages.


I should have clarified. I would like to stop using synthetic nutrients.

As for my water out of the tap, 7.1pH and 150ppm. Not bad.

Municipal or well water?

Municipal water.

I’ve been using Prescription Blend nutrients and the one thing I’ve noticed is that after adding nutes to a gallon of water it always comes out at 6.5 PH. My filtered tap water is around 8 ph.

I used the nectar line for a couple grows and it was a pain in the ass. It also is a slippery slope of more products and money.

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The mega crop line is great and what ive been using with solid results.

@NeoGroR I use apple cider vinegar down baking soda up. I almost never have to bring my mix up. My girls love compost tea and recharge.


Unfortunately it has organics in it and thus I can’t use it in autopot lines/reservoir.
I’ve been using chemgro for 3 years almost and going to start Jack’s this winter side by side I think… Well I have 5lb of it soo

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Oh trust me I can tell they’re better as supplements to an organic grow rather then a base with their feed schedule

So, that is pH buffered already (probably.)

I wouldn’t [edit: adjust] pH at all, if you’re just watering. I would still measure pH periodically.

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