Hi everyone, here is an SOS for expert autopoters.
For reasons too long to explain, I am only using the vases and the acquavalve trays, so no tank.
I was top feeding, but with nutrients specific for hydro feeding, my runoff ppm was always high; I did some research and found out that the nutrients for hydro go through the soil, which is not ideal as the soil has its composition, which gets flushed out by top feeding thus altering the values
So I decided to fill the trays with the nutrient solution where the acqua valve is. I figured I top nutrients solution up as they get absorbed.
I post some pictures. Am I doing something unbelievably stupid? Maybe with the acqua valve water just cover the bottom enough or else the roots would drown?
Thank you
Running a soil grow you would typically rely on the nutrients in soil to supply nutrients until its depleted and then start supplying fertilizer. This pretty much regardless of how you’re supplying the fertilizer. Most people using autopots choose to go with a media that’s closer to inert like coco coir or promix.
Why you paid for autopots but aren’t using them as designed is kind of puzzling. You can top or bottom feed plants with any container that pots will fit in.
Hey @ACMilan i would concur with @dbrn32 on using an inert substate. I’ve grown with coco coir and it works great as a hydroponic medium.
I’d be a little concern about the size of the pot you have your plants in. Are you using a net pot? What size is the pot?
To address your question about water levels going down. Plant will absorb water and nutrients as they grow. But the amount of nutrients is dependent on what they need and the pH of the medium. If they do not need nutrients the ppm will rise which tells you not to add nutrients this time. Or if the ppm has dropped then you need to add nutrients this time. If the ppm stays the same and the water level goes down then your plant is drinking and absorbing nutrients, you should add nutrients.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)
-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto)
-Age of plant
-Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
-Vessels: Type and capacity of container (fabric, plastic, etc)
-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
-Method used to measure PH and TDS
-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space
-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum
-Actual wattage draw of lights
-Current Light Schedule
-Temps; Day, Night
-Humidity; Day, Night
-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
-Co2; Yes, No
If growing Hydro some additional questions:
-DWC? RDWC? Autopots? Ebb and Flow? Other?
-Distance of liquid below net pot (DWC)
-Temperature of reservoir
-TDS of nutrient solution
-Amount of air to solution
Always try to upload a clear picture in white light of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you.
Strain are green crack and northen lights, photo, plastic pots from Autupot system, of 15l, seed banks one Royal queen the other something bibblob or similar, indoor growing tend 120cm x 180cm 8 weeks old, using Sensi Grow for hydroponics and later sensi bloom , ph stable with use of PH pen. Lights are a 300w omega infinity and a qw0w quantum board, on a 12 x 12 lights, exhaust with filter and another motor to intake fresh air.
2 q2 inc fan
Hey if you are in flower or inducing flower then your 12x12 light schedule is spot on. If you are in veg you should be in a 18x6 light schedule.
Anything less than 14 hours of light can induce flowers. Generally we reduce to 12 on and 12 off to induce flower and remain at 12x12 throughout flower stag less you could provoke plant to jump back to veg and mess up your flower stage.
Do you have any plant pictures for the forum? It would be good to see how they look if you want an honest opinion of how they are doing.
