Where can I find a TDS primmer? IE: where,when,why,how, ect. Just got my first TDS meter.
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The exact numbers depend on several factors,
Most feeding charts provided by Nutrient companies will give you those.
Always start below what is recommended and work up.
Am I going to make a “slurry” of soil each time or test the runoff?? Oh thanks BTW.
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we all kind of differ in our approaches…Some do that, others just test the runoff coming out of the bag or bucket…Some only test when there is a noticeable problem.
Some just throw the seeds outside and come back in 6 months…Lol
Just getting ready to drop some beans I just recieved and picking up the last bits and pieces to start my third grow.
Normally runoff numbers are all you need unless there’s an issue. Input TDS can be important too and in media or hydro you use it almost as much as a PH meter. (hope you have one of those too haha)
Oh ya I have the Aperia ph20. Planning on 2 5 gal pots of FFOF with WWEF beans in a 2x4x5 tent lit by the HLG260XL.
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I’m running a 2 X 4 X 5 tent right now and it only has room for one plant. Mind you; I’ll get close to a pound off of it but still.
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I have been fretting on that exact desission… one plant LST’ed or try to stuff 2 of them in.
Tatal dissolved solids is exactly what it says. How much stuff other than water is in there? One thing to keep in mind chlorine will not show up! Nor will your pen tell you what those solids are. Which has a pretty significant bearing on how much of what fertilizer you should or shouldn’t be using. An example is tap water, let’s assume you dechlorinated it, you are reading 150 ppm or whatever unit of measurement you choose to use, you want 500 ppm total concentration? That means two things, one, 150 of that can’t be fertilizer and you still don’t know what the 150 ppm is? Its wise if doing pure hydro to have your source water analyzed if you don’t have a machine to make pure water.
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Within reason you are correct. I think under 200 ppm you can work with that. But my muni water delivered to the house is 550! So; R/O is really the only course. (my total nutrient load is only 600 ppm)
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Absolutely! Because you have 2 issues. Ppm so high you have no headroom for fert and you would have no idea what those ppm are in the water or what concentrations they are in.
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For example I have an apera and I use canna nutes their conversion factor is 0.74 so I changed mine so it reads what they recommend. Yours will probably be fine staying the stock setting but worth looking at.
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I just took reading of my tap water at 297 ppm.
What is that telling me???
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Most municipalities have water quality tests posted on their city/county websites.
Do a google search for “(Your Town) water quality report”
I found mine in just a few minutes.
You can at least find your local water office and get a report from them using this search…
https://ofmpub.epa.gov/apex/safewater/f?p=136:102::::::
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That is telling you that your tap water is way purer than mine LOL.
Mine runs about 350 ppm and 7.8 - 8.5 pH…I use this to water and feed my cannabis with no issues that I know of and my plants look OK to me.
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Actually our water is very good tasting,clear. So other than good water what does this tell me.i always Ph as it is around 7.2 ish.
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for me it tells three things i needed to know,
is the water treated with chlorine which is removable by aeration, or something else like chloramine which is not.
Mine happens to be chlorine and I just bubble it away.
How much calcium is already in the water, how much magnesium is already in the water.
Cal Mag are needed plant minerals and if that makes up the majority of my hardness then I do not have to supplement too heavily when I water.
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ME TOO! Mine is 550!
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