My store is out of ph up and I can’t travel today. Is there something I may have or can get at a store that will help ?
I can’t vouch for any of this but garrigan’s usually pretty accurate
-good luck
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Cool, thanks.
Anytime buddy good luck with it !
Hey, I have updated pics of the girls in full bud @ updated pics of S.Skunk and.S.S.Haze string if you are interested. You’ve helped me since April.
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You are to kind sir.
But I hope this helps @rjw71
A good way to stabilize soil is to use dolomite lime (calcium-magnesium carbonate). Dolomitic lime acts slowly and continuously, so soil will remain pH stable for a few months.
Using fine size dolomite lime is important, coarser grades can take a year or longer to work. You can find fine size dolomite lime at any well stocked garden supply center.
Dolomite lime has been used by gardeners as a pH stabilizer for many years. It has a pH that is neutral (7.0). When added to soil in the correct proportions, it will stabilize soil at a pH near 7.0.
When growing in containers, add one cup of fine dolomite lime to each cubic foot of soil. Mix the dry soil thoroughly with the dolomite lime, then lightly water it. After watering, re-mix it and wait for a day or two before checking the pH. When growing in an outdoor garden, follow the dolomite lime manufacturers instructions.
Lowering soil pH: small amounts of composted leaves, cottonseed meal, or peat moss will lower the pH of soil.
Raising soil pH: small amounts of hardwood ashes or crushed oyster/egg shells will help to raise the soil pH. Hydrated lime can also be used to raise the pH of soil. In containers, use no more than 1/8 cup of hydrated lime per cubic foot of soil (per application). Mix it into warm water, then apply the water to the soil. When growing in an outdoor garden, follow the manufacturers instructions.
Wait at least a day or two before checking the pH level of soil after attempting to raise, lower or stabilize it. If adjustments still have to be made, use small amounts of whatever material you are using. Don’t try to adjust the pH more than 0.1 every two days.
Hope this helps rjw71
Will
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Thank you again. I suspected the peat to be the culprit. Now I’m thinking the ph buffering stuff they put in promix is to try to counteract that. New promix in a solo cup, filtered water with a ph of 8 the runoff is 5.2 initially. Add composted nutes to that and watering in at 6.0, now I can understand how my runoff tended to plummet to 5.0. Huh, kinda wish I could’ve clued in sooner but I am regaining my enthusiasm. I was having a hard time figuring this out. That is why my first crop was so successful. Having never heard anyone tell me that promix was like growing hydroponicly I watered in at 6.7.
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Since. I have raised the ph level at feeding time I’ve noticed my runoff is around 6.0. I’ll bet what I read wasn’t telling me to feed 6.0 ,well I believe the term was keep your plant at 6.0. Now I’m getting there. 
please correct me if I’m off a little. This will most likely be my hobby for a long time.
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No no you are correct. Did you mix the Promix with neutral soil ?
I use something very simulaor tor promix just called something else.
Now I just started 15 seedlings they will be placed in soil at 1/4 ProMix 1/2 soil neutral
1/4 worm castings. All mixed up real good and the seedling will be placed in that soil. But first I will check the p h then water as needed
I’m glade you are getting your enthusiasm back. We all have made mistakes and we all started out not knowing a dam thing about growing marijuana. Hell i couldn’t even spell marijuana…lol.
And later on down the road you will take this knowledge you just learned and you will help someone else with the same problem thst is very close to it my friend.
B Safe
Will
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No neutral soil added, just promix bm.
What is neutral soil ? I’ve been repeatedly reminded not to feed seedlings. How can we get away with mixing nutes with the medium? Before this site I would have mixed bat guano and other stuff. But now I’m learning the micorrhizae is more potent than I thought. Maybe this stuff should be used sparingly. I barely fed them and tips were burning and one plant (young) had curling leaves which I was told was a sign of over feeding. Now I’m pretty sure most of the problem was my ph. Neutral soil ? Sorry I’m so wordy, I think it’s all starting to make sense and that creates more questions.
Tried a sample of S.Skunk last night. Wow!
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7 is nuetral.
Most plants do well with a pH just slightly under 7 and most soils sold are adjusted to a relatively neutral pH, usually around 6.5pH-7.0pH.
Happy growing,
MacG
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Thank you Mr.MacGyver
I was going to say anyoil with no dded nutrients or very very little.
@rjw71, seedlings up to 5 true set of leaves need no nutrients .
After that start at 1/4 strength an you’ll do just fine. And so will your plants
Will
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you can use wood ash to raise the PH add a teaspoon at a time till u get it where u want it
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Oh yeah. OK, that makes sense. I’m afraid of soil. My last crop I had so many fungus nats that they were splattered on the walls around the fan. They killed the roots and by some miracle I still got five ounces from six plants. I never did treat for them in fear of hurting the plants, totally wrong thinking there. Well, grow and learn.
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Cool, thanks. I fed these 1/4 strength for nearly entire veg, not including some top dress and they still had tips yellowing. They grew better than I expected. With what I’ve learned about ph these clones should be epic.
Hey, thanks. I have some of that if I need it.
Re: gnats
MacGyverStoner took me to school about nematodes, haven’t had a gnat problem since
(if I can find the thread will post it)
With nematodes and yellow stickies gnats won’t be a problem
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Nematodes, Huh. I’ve heard the word but have no idea. I’ll google the word. Thanks I’ll check back.
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