I’m not really sure how that answers my question when I know @TDubWilly runs a chiller and sterile res.
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Up to a point, though, right? I mean if you have water temps over 75F you probably need to course correct, even if you are pumping a ton of air into the water.
So @HappyHydroGrower a question for you:
Would you rather spend money configuring your growing set up to fit into the 32x32 tent, or spend the money on a bigger tent and a less costly hydro option?
My concern with the size of the space (32x32 and 63" tall) is that heat management might get difficult. I would remote anything that generates heat - including my light drivers. Can you tell me where the tent sits? What kind of floor is it on? And would you be putting your tote directly on the tent floor?
For example my tents are in the basement on a concrete floor. My ambient basement temps in winter are in the mid to high 50s. Putting a tote full of water on the concrete floor does a decent job of keeping the water cool.
And now let me throw another wrench in the works. Would you consider ebb and flow?
This could get you the recycling system and give you a lot of options on how to pot and grow your plants. You would need the tray linked above, a tote for a reservoir still, a submersible water pump that’s powerful enough to pump water from the tote to the tray, some hoses to connect the pump to the tray, and the valves for the connection on the tray side. Plus the other usual stuff you’d need for any other type of hydro grow (air stones, air pump, etc.).
Just a thought.
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Exactly right!
I paid attention to @bogleg with his and he’s the inspiration for my doing RDWC (thanks a bunch Al haha!) I am using the “Lucas Formula”: GH Micro and Bloom, 1 to 2 ratio. Add Cal Mag and I add Superthrive (in veg) and Armor Si and Hydroguard (beneficial bacteria). Lots and lots of air. I have that same 951 gph pump and it’s loud but it’s also in my garage.
I like having the reservoir outside of my grow space as I can adulterate the solution or PH it or check temp or add water; whatever. So far; so good!
Just wait until you drop an air stone in the solution before deciding you need additional agitation lol. That air really percolates your liquid.
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@TDubWilly @dbrn32 Didn’t see any mention of chiller, but this makes sense with the temps he provided. Not sterile but clean. It’s an open system so you cannot run sterile.
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I’m not sure if its mentioned in this thread, or when the newer member was asking and you said that dwc temps didn’t matter. I know what he does because I follow his grows on multiple forums. And it’s indeed a sterile system by his own words right above. That’s purposely running something like h202 to kill bacteria good and bad.
In the other thread when I mentioned temps, that’s the reason. Not everyone needs a chiller or to run sterile, or both for that matter. Some people have climates or grows setup that water temps aren’t aren’t an issue. Others will constantly fight root rot without it. In my opinion, anyone who is considering moving to a dwc system should consider there may be an issue with water temps prior to jumping in.
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Agreed. My take is to grow a plant, see what happens, and course correct from there. But others might favor making the investment up front and not worrying about it.
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Absolutely good point. Chillers and h2o2 aren’t the only solutions either. Plenty of people have success dropping frozen water bottles in, or making slight adjustment to recirculating system.
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True, completely true.
I scrounged up some old pics for you brother and you can be the judge on synthetic growing
And one to show that I wasn’t always hydro lol
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I can hear you whispering to your plants from here.
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Then I’m probably yelling at the plants lol
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I tried the frozen bottle gig to no avail. Of course I’m running approximately 50gal in my system. I’ve had problems with every grow, and didn’t know what it was till last time. Root rot. I invested in a chiller, and things are doing great. Well worth the investment.
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@TDubWilly absolutely geogeous grows. Thanx for the clarifications. Using peroxide in the mix will significantly control the major concern of growing organisms that are unfavorable to the system that would be brought on by higher temps. Not using organics is important because you do not want to provide something the nasties can grow on. Beneficial bacterial will help to fix nitrogen at the roots, but you don’t want anaerobes throwing out toxin byproducts (from anaerobic fermentation). Keeping the system clean through peroxid or a weekly scrubbing of your buckets will go a long way to a carefree growing experience. Almost boring.
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Not that it means much, I have a mechanical engineer background. The only reason I mention that is, our goal is to maximize the space I have to work with… for now. and for that, I am all about being a diy’er…lol 
Most folks that have a big tent, have a big system. I look at it as, I have a small tent so I need a smaller system…kinda. We have decided that another tent is not an option… for now. At some point I will build a room big enough for whatever we decided to do. Right now, this is temporary and what I have to work with.
I have this tent set up in an unfinished room on a concrete floor, I have my tent setting on a platform w/casters so I can roll it out from the wall to get behind it. If I add a reservoir, I would build a platform so the res could sit on it and move with the tent.
This is one reason I started this topic to learn the pros and cons. Is the hydro going to increase the temps in my tent significantly?
As of right now, I can keep it to a minimum. By that I mean around 83 at the highest… and that’s in the middle of the summer. I could actually pipe AC in the tent if need be.
Well, we have considered that system. I have seen & read excellent journals of folks growing with them. Most of the problems with that system all seem to be about the same, if you have a problem that is. The float valve has the tendency to stick. Don’t get me wrong, I know it works great. Right now it’s not for us. Therefore, we decided on either the single tote or a dual system tote/reservoir.
We have about 2 months before we have to make a decision. We’re still not sure if we want the less involved system as far as setup goes, or the little more advanced system with the reservoir. Either one I can do. I’m afraid I may take the lesser of two evils… so to speak…lol and just do the one tote. But! It’s not set in stone and am open for opinions and or options.
Thanks for the questions and options and just making one think about different scenarios. Your input and knowledge is very valuable and appreciated!
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@Grandaddy013 How many bottles did you have to try in your 50 gal to make a difference? And how long did it keep the temps down if any? Thanks!
I’m curious about this… because my system doesn’t have a float valve anywhere. It has an overflow valve and the main tube from the pump to the tray, which acts as a drain (using gravity) when the pump is off. As long as those two things are kept clear of debris I don’t have any problems (and haven’t had them get clogged yet, but I expect it will happen eventually).
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Bogleg is your guy for that, but seen a couple things worth considering…
With DIY led I help with, you’re probably better running your ambient temp in space in the 80-85f range. I wouldn’t go crazy trying to keep it there, but you should see higher performance there opposed to somewhere in the 70’s.
I see he already posted about the float, I was thinking same thing. Potential for leak is always there with any hydro system, but I wasn’t aware of most ebb & flow systems using a float. You could combat that by simply having res and flood table that hold more water than is in your system. Worst case scenarios there are your drain clogs and holds solution on your table. Or your res or a fitting develop a leak. Same potential as having a recirculating system really.
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The more water a system holds the less effective that frozen bottles will be. In my experience, over about 3-5 gallons, bottles start to become ineffective but maybe others have had differemt experiences
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Sorry. I know I said float valve but I think I meant the overflow valve. (wasn’t sure of the exact name.) That’s about the only real problem we noticed with that system. Like you said
I know there is always a chance for something to go wrong with any system and please understand, I am by no means knocking that system. It’s a great system.
What all would I have to get, short of buying the entire system that they sell?
Can you buy the main components desperately?
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Hey db, thanks for your input. To me if you think about it, It is a float valve. When the water drains into the flood table, the overflow valve will raise and shut the flow off, just like a toilet. It’s floating in the water. Sorry! Or maybe there is something else that I don’t understand. But, to the best of my knowledge, that’s how I see they work.
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