I don’t know what “furniture grade” ABS is, but the only reasons schedule 40 ABS isn’t more broadly available are that it’s more expensive and local building codes don’t always allow it.
It’s lighter than PVC, has a much cleaner manufacturing burden, and it’s recyclable. It’s just a pain to find around here.
I don’t know the difference between grades of PVC, but I just bought 15 5’ sections to use to build SCROGs. The 40 grade (whatever that means) is all that is available at HD, Menards, and so on around here. It’s pretty cheap. I only paid $2.67 for each 5’ section. The 40 grade is what I used. It is pretty sturdy. The price varied quite a bit. I got the price I referenced at Menards. The HD price was double that.
Grade 40 is actually called schedule 40 and it has to do with wall thickness. Schedule 80 would have thicker walls, the outside diameter stays the same and because of the thicker wall more strength, also more cost. I don’t like blanket statements but for just about everything being done on this site schedule 40 is plenty good.
Don’t know if you really care but just bought I’d share.
Abs just uses abs glue. No primer. It’s a black glue made just for abs. Or you can use a all purpose glue that states it does abs.
No need to scuff abs before you glue it. The glue takes longer than PVC to dry also.
You can find good abs glue at mobile home supply stores if not at your local hardware.
There is a glue to transition from ABS to PVC, but I’ve never used it. (Edit: maybe that’s the universal glue you mentioned). I think code might call for a Fernco. Not that your DWC system needs to be code compliant, but maybe there’s a good reason to go that route.
PharmerBob:
And Howdy to all, a newbie to this site. I’m a long time grower, retired for many years now, “about” 70, Canada.
Nice setup.
I am in the investigating stage, thinking about moving from coco. So a noob to RDWC or UC.
I am here looking for information and input, please…and thanks in advance for any input.
I like the automated system I have and would like to explore an UC setup.
The Ez Stor 8 gallon aren’t easy for me to find in Canada. I like the flat surfaces, but people seem to make the curves work somehow, but nervous with a larger diameter UC pipe.
Would a 4 gallon square container work? --had to delete my link. It’s a 4 gallon square Uline black bucket.
Also wrt to
-the UC pipe is it critical to use a 1.5" vs 2". The only comments I’ve seen are wrt to clogging the line. I was leaning to 2" PVC.
-Uniseals vs or bulkhead. Quite difference in price. I use grommets in my sumps now and despite having a flood tray backups I haven’t really had any problem with the grommet setup. Obviously one flood will make one wish they’d spent $$ on the setup, but I don’t want to waste it either. Again, leaning to uniseals.
-Return line – pump brands, capacity, line diameter, hardline or flex black. Granted the white PVC might be less prone to buildup from heat I guess.
-Net pots - I see the commercial versions have tended to downsize over time and now appear to be about 5.5" in the 4 pot plus epicenter setup. What’s the opinion on this?
-Res size vs the rest of the system? I will run two 4 pot setups eventually but I’ll do a trial with one first. I have a coverted AC unit as my chiller and can cool my current res’s to as cold as I want with wort coils in 45 gallon res’s currently - and could still cool a beer bar too I figure.
-Last item on my mind. The weight in the end tube with probably a lot of water in it, and putting a load on the seals, plus the pot walls. Does anyone support the end UC tube somehow? I was thinking of using either a 1/2" PVC or 3/4" PVC return, and putting the line vertically down, then 90 degrees back to the res, but using a T at that junction and capping off on end of the T, making a support for the cross pipe? Am I overthinking this?
So to be so long.
Thanks all.
For pipe supports I just cut a shim from 2” pvc to desired height. My last setup without the shim made pipe pull down and bend side of pail.
If using grommets instead of bulkheads be sure all pipes are supported and don’t pull from weight. Grommets should be sufficient as long as proper care is taken when cutting the holes. Has to be perfect.
I use a solid 2” pvc return for a portion of the return line and then drop down to 1” flex which goes to the pump. From pump is 1” flex to res.
I currently use a elemental 793 gph pump for return. It’s in an 8 pot system with 2 pots for res. So total 10,8gal pails. I think it’s to strong causing to much under current which makes for last Pail being short on water compared to the rest. My pails are connected with 2” pvc. It’s a current culture system I pieced together.
I would use at minimum 8gal pails.
The reason I use 2 pails for res is current culture wants $250usd for a res and I did it with 2, 8gal pails for about $100.
I’d love to see some photos of the methods you’ve mentioned!
For starters here is a pail made in Canada that is sold at most hydro stores here in detroit michigan. A knock off to current culture.
It is 8 gal
I have to charge phone. I’ll try to get pics before lights out of the other stuff.
Also these pails come in a larger size.
Here is the res setup.
Ok so to start is the return from pump to first pail.
You can see where 2" pvc comes out of tent. It is then downsized to a 1" barb fitting to accommodate the flex line. From there it runs into an inline filter ( inline filters can be purchased as a sprinkler system part , made to filter the water so your yards sprinkler heads dont get plugged ) there is a shutoff between tent and filter. From there is the inline water pump that pumps up into the res. The reason for the upward travel is so I can use just one shutoff at filter to clean filter without system draining.
Inside first pail is water pump that goes to chiller and the return from chiller goes into second pail…
Here is a system drain setup. Used because the current culture has a low drain hole on each pail.
And lights went out I can get pics later of in tent setup. But it is a standard current culture build.
My second res pail has holes in the side drilled for 2 probes that run the blulab ph doser. It’s also easier to have the second pail for me because nothing is in the way in it so I have space to test and add nutes. Just airstone and 2 probes on the side.
I’ll add some more pics later when lights come back on.
And there is no right or wrong with the fittings I used. It is just what is available at local stores for me. As long as it’s a solid build I wouldnt question what is used. One thing for sure if using barb fittings in system as I have make sure to use clamps at all spots it may leak without them.
It probably would but keep in mind, the more water you have in your system, the easier it will be to maintain your PH.
I have one 18 gal trash can for a res and two 20 gal totes to grow in with a 6” net pots in each tote. After I run out of 6” net pots, I’ll go to 3” net pots.
Water travels from the res to the tote through an 1.5” pvc.
Right now I have 3/4” garden hose for my return which goes through my chiller and back to my res. I will be changing the hose to 3/4” pvc after cleaning up my system. I just harvested my SD so waiting on drying before I clean everything up.
I chose the 1.5” bulkheads and I use plumbers tape and plumbers putty. I have yet to have a leak.
Garden hose is too porous and will have lots of build up in it.
Go with 3” with neoprene collars or seed starter of your choice.
I support my pipes with 1.5” pvc cut to height to keep level.
Hope this helps. Good luck! 
Just so you know. A 4 gal square container would most likely cause huge problems as there wont be proper space for roots and net basket to fit. With an 8gal square that I use I am guessing it uses 4 to 5 gals of water below net basket at most.
Totes work as well but take up more space and they are shallow. If using totes go for taller totes ( usually 20gal or more) to be sure there is enough space under net basket for enough water.
And most important, I am just sharing what I know and there are many different ways to build a system that works perfectly. The more you learn from us will make it easier for you to decide which route you want to go.
Best of luck my friend and Happy Growing !!
Wow, thanks for the great input to all. Super encouraging and a welcome to this site.
I did order 5 pots, and they are a no name brand of the Ez Stor type 8 gallon. I’ve made the decision on 2" mains. The comment about pump size, in one of the replies, made me rethink the return line a bit. Thinking is that a 1" return with an inline ball valve, if too large one can regulate the flow down, but hard to do the reverse if select too small.
I found a manual for a system that is/was made under license from original manufacturer. It has a lot of specs that are very useful. Seach for “702890_Instructions.pdf” since I can’t post links.
The drain issue was one I was contemplating, being back-n-forth between a T- in the return line. I have shallow pan Little Giant condensate pumps that sends my current run off from auto-watering to waste. I was going to keep a sump anyway as an “oh s##t” backup in the flood trays (which is my first line of defense) and trying to incorporate that for draining/cleaning in a UC setup.
I found bulkheads for about $13 for 2". The adapters are pricey though also. The reason I’d go with bulkheads would be the option to take the setup apart, to move, fix, upgrade.
Thinking that I’d use T’s with a threaded cap to scrub out the 2" pipes more easily vs 90 elbows. I haven’t settled on that yet because not sure if the flow would be more disturbed by a 90 vs T. If I use bulkheads, taking the units apart to clean would be less of an issue as the tank to pipe connection wouldn’t be as disturbed as with uniseals. In my current setup I use a lot of threaded unions for the cleaning reason, but 2" unions are spendy items.
Again, thanks. The input makes me think before I jump into buying at least.
Stay healthy and safe.
For cleaning pipes in the system ( at least the larger ones ) you can purchase a dryer lint scrubber thing. It’s like a 4 foot long 1 1/2 inch round pipe cleaner looking thing. They are made to scrub the clothes dryer spot that lint trap is in. It works ok so system doesnt have to be torn down as much.
2" uc spin tight bulkheads are about $11 usd each and are complete. Just glue pvc into outlet using a pvc to abs cement. If you use these or another abs fitting be sure to use purple primer on pvc only , and not on abs. Abs melts some from it 
I found that out fast lol
Betrayed, thanks.
Do you have the drain out option setup? If not what is your choice, ie use the pump to pump out, or…?
I noticed some brass fittings. I suspect that they are your mods. I’ve used brass. I won’t do that again. It really doesn’t take too long before the salts in the nutes mess it up. Even brass to plastic becomes locked up pretty quickly.
I found the link to the UC4 manual and copied that asap. Good reference there too, but not a vast amount of detail.
I did pick up the CC bulkheads vs my original thoughts of a pool or aquarium bulkhead, but once you add in the adapters it’s a wash for price. I got the bulkhead screens too. I plan on attaching the ABS bulkhead to the PVC pipe with Oatley ABS/PVC transition glue unless there’s a better option.
Back to hockey playoffs…cheers.
The oatley abs to pvc is what I use.
I used brass fittings made for hoses. They have a rubber seal inside. The cc tubs come with a plastic piece threaded that i used the brass fittings to and those connect to 1" barbed t’s.
Before i had a system with a drain out i just used a submersible pump to pump water out of it. It would leave a shallow amount still in system so i just grabbed my worst bath towel and used it to suck up balance of water.
You can add a t in the 2" pvc anywhere . Then in t use a 2 to 1 plug and use 1" pvc with a ball valve as a drain out location as well. So many crazy ways to plumb something.
I usually just visualize what I want, goto home depot and wander around making it up as I go because you never know what is in stock and what isn’t.
I appreciate your responses a lot. I have so many questions! Reading for hours a day now. Still lots to get my head around, and not all are answered on the web despite the vast amount of info.
@BetrayedSoul or anyone with a UC system.
Good day to all. More questions if you don’t mind. Looking for comments and suggestions also.
I am trying to plan a PVC parts buy. The newer UC pipe setup has T’s at the end of the pipes for cleanout with a flexible black cap, looking like a pressure test cap with a band. Is there a plug on the inside of that cap? ie like a Oatley/Cherne inside the pipe gripper plug?
My test system is going to be a 13 gallon epicenter and 4 x 8gallon grow sites. I have the CC spin lock bulkheads and EzStor pots. I am planning a 1" return line with a corrugated/ reinforced flex PVC return line.
Water pumps. Has anyone gone with a DC inline water pump? What do you use on your UC system? Quiet, reliable, and not too oversized. About 7-8 changeovers per hour. So 4 x 6 gallons, plus probably about at least 6 gallons in the epicenter, have a bit longer in-run and return pipe as the epicenter will be in an adjacent room with my res. about 5’ for each. So ~35-40 gallons.
Air pumps. Looking at the linear pumps, like an Alita AL-60 or AL-40 as my first choice. Noise is a primary issue, plus reliability and parts.
I bought an PRM pressure gauge on Ebay and a bag of plastic disposable 3/4" mufflers on Amazon to build a pressure and air flow regulator.
Any comments on water and air pump capacity and brands would be appreciated… or any other parts too! ie sizes of net pots (was looking at the CC 5.5", but they are pretty expensive) or heat control (chaulk paint, or foil wrap, etc)
I’ll keep a list of the specs and ballpark prices if anyone is interested when I finish this thing.
Cheers all.
I wish I could help with most but my drain out system is self made for my uc system.
I got the al-100 for my system. Used it first with 3 grow sites and 1 res and have not used a pressure regulator. I think it’s kind of loud but I am in a small mobile home and room is close to my bedroom so I can hear it at night and it is a pain. Pump is aprox 12’ from my bedroom in another room.
I think a corrugated anything may cause a buildup and need to be checked and cleaned inbetween grows.
