@Myfriendis410 I saw you tagged in a post about ppm.
I have a couple of questions.
I’m using dwc 5 gallon buckets with no rez.
My water temps are around 76 degrees.
I’m growing photoperiod.
I’m using AN.
I’m assuming as the nutrients get used the ppm raises.
With a new mix for a mature plant my ppm is around 900 following their directions.
So am I suppose to just add my ph’d to ro water when it gets low.? I’m reading every where that you dump and remake every week?
That’s difficult when you are in the middle of a grow.
Any ideas and help would be greatly appreciated.
Our first baby!
Bucket hydro is problematic. The things they don’t tell you could fill a book.
First: replace the bucket with a tote. 28 gallon yellow-topped from Home Depot. You can simply transfer your net pot to the tote after a hole is cut in the lid. Here’s why you want to do this:
5 gallon bucket will hold maybe 3.5 gallons without drowning plant. 28 gallon tote can be filled to around 20 gallons and due to it’s shape retains proper level longer.
Solution concentration will vary radically as your plant matures. It gets to really be a problem in mid flower when you are having to add 2 gallons every day of nutrient solution to your thirsty plant. Having a larger ‘bucket’ eliminates that as a major issue. You’ll still have to refill frequently but not as frequently.
Solution temperature needs to be at or below 70F and beneficial microbes like Hydroguard should be added to solution. If you can’t get to 70F without help you will have to bite the bullet and get a chiller. It’s really the only way to get down to temps in most circumstances. If you don’t; you risk root rot (pythium).
900 ppm is a good safe place to be in hydro: plant might take up to 1,000 or 1,100 ppm in mid flower.
To answer this: salts in water are read using EC to give us an output in PPM. The more salts (more concentrated) the higher the number. As plant grows you will see the PH and TDS (PPM) fluctuate depending on the plant’s demands. If it’s drinking more than feeding, TDS will go up. If it’s consuming nutes at the same ratio as the water, the reading will remain stable.
Look up ‘VPD chart’ and print one out: that’s a good tool to keep the plant in the proper range of temp/humidity for proper uptake of liquid.
No experience with Advanced Nutrients: some folks like em; some don’t.
If you really want to tune up your grow; add a check rez and a standing rez outside the grow space. Done correctly you can go several weeks with no real attention paid to the rez. Ideally you want to go about 2 weeks between rez changes.
Plant looks pretty happy!
edit: look up ‘Autopots’. I’m going with that this grow. @Not2SureYet and @nicky and @imSICKkid are all doing some amazing stuff with them and Jack’s 3-2-1.
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It’s actually pretty simple.
Your water will be different ppm depending on how the plant uptake nutrients. It is always best to check the ppm of remaining water in the pail before mixing more water to fill it.
If the ppm is higher than your target you just mix less ppm for the water to fill the pail. And opposite if the ppm in pail is lower than target.
When you add water always add the nutrients to it before you ph it and then add it to the bubble bucket.
You will probably run into some kind of trouble with that water temp. It’s best at 70f or below. So you should use hydroguard in the water.
If you run into root rot(slimy brown roots) change water out frequently and add a larger air pump. Best to have a chiller to keep water temps down.
Best of luck !!
If you have any other questions just tag away and I’ll be happy to help.
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I agree with @Myfriendis410 and @BetrayedSoul
At a water temperature of 76°, you are looking at failure along about mid flower due to root rot. After losing about 4 crops, I finally got a water chiller.
Thank yall for the help. I’m glad I ran across this group and joined. I’m sure I will have lots of questions.
I like the tote idea and the remote rez.
I bought hydroguard as soon as I read this.
Looks like I have chosen an expensive hobby.
We started out getting a 2x4 tent.
Now we have a 4x8 that I was going to just split in half.
Now I think we need need the 4x8 for flower and just turn the whole spare bedroom into veg and supplies lol.
The 2x4 we are using still for babies and clones.
I will work on the water temp but if i cant get it down then a chiller and rez will be my fix.
We are also looking at a hlg light but they are not cheap.
Our 2 clones are rooting but droopy so I’m adding another air stone. The air pump we have isnt going to work either.
Advanced nutrients definitely keeps the ph right. I think they want you to change mixes too often and use to much.
I will start reading about the vpd chart.
Seems like I’m just problem solving all the time but
I picked hydro because I knew it wouldn’t be easy.
Also I changed the nutes before I read this and it was at 1800 ppm
Hydro is easy I believe. The only hard part is shelling out the cash for upgrades.
hlg is worth every penny for lighting.
And as far as solving the problems that is what makes you a better grower and always remember to ask questions, we are here to help.
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