Outdoor plants browning and dying from the centers out. Help?


We have an outdoor garden with 40+ plants that in the past week are all looking funky on the insides. Almost all of the inner leaves and small sprigs closest to the main stalks started yellowing, then browning and dying. Some are dying in a way that looks kind of like a nutrient deficiency because they have crisp brown on the edges followed by soft yellow tissue and green, healthy tissue still in the middle. Other leaves turn all yellow then all brown. Overall the plants still look vibrant and healthy and at first you couldn’t see the problems on the inside without pushing outer branches away to peer into plant. Now the dying leaves seem to be spreading farther up the branches. There are even a few browning leaves close to the tops of our biggest branches. Now you can see the dead leaves just by standing back and looking. In general the plants still look healthy on the outside but we are afraid the problem will continue to creep its way up. The healthy looking leaves near the tops of the plants do have a very fine brown/black outline all along their edges (see picture).

Dug down the sides of our pots today and the roots looked healthy and the soil didn’t smell like rot or fungus. No pests are visible in the soil.

Stalks of plants and large branches seem solid and healthy although there is some dark brown coloring which we think is staining from grandevo or nutrient foliar feeding?

We probably had broad mites last year in the same garden but we got all new pots, soil, and tools. Reinfection is a possibility but our game-plan has been hyper-prevention: we sprayed with forbid a few times early in the season (a bummer but true) then switched to alternating grandevo and green cleaner 8 weeks ago. We are using stihl backpack sprayers and spraying about once a week. It’s been aggressive but there haven’t been any conclusive signs of mites and until now the plants were growing fast and healthy so it felt like we were winning. We coated plants with diatomaceous earth at the end of July to control cucumber beetles and many leaves (especially interior) still have a white residue on them that won’t come off even with a water rinse.

Strain; All are local crosses that have done well in our climate: “russian kush X trainwreck” “black cherry cheesecake” “peaches and cream” “floyd” “peachy pine”

Outdoor Soil in pots: Roots organic original- 200 gal pots.

Temps; Day ranging from mid 80’s to last week’s 100’s. Night mostly 60’s

Humidity; Really low

Things we think could be the problem: Fusarium, Verticillium, burning from the aggressive spraying, smothering from the diatomaceous residue, or some other undiagnosed infection.

Please give us your 2-cents about what could be the problem and how we can heal it. We really appreciate the community knowledge and support! Thank you! Save the weed!


Maybe we have the broad mites again. Another look in the mag seemed to show some movement and eggs today. Does this seem possible to folks? The browning centers aren’t dying in the same way that the infested plants did last year so we thought it had to be something else. We haven’t sprayed for over 10 days since we thought we were burning the insides but maybe now we’re over-run?! This shit is so hard. If it aint one thing it’s another…

I see there has been no response…perhaps you should submit a support ticket… wish I could help.

We need someone like @garrigan62 and @Aquaponic_Dumme to help out


I gota tell ya thougjs are very nice plants there my friend
And I want to Thank You for choosing ILGM for input on
you grow…thank you for that…
Here is a little write up from " Robert Bergman "

Sometimes even a fully mature marijuana plant’s buds won’t have enough THC to achieve a high. This will only occur when the plants are improperly tended, so as long as you do the proper research and tend your plants responsibly, it should not happen to you. If you want to be extremely cautious, you should only prune the leaves that already look unhealthy. If they are turning yellow or have brown tips, if their lobes are partially eaten, and if they are withered at all, you can (and should) safely remove those leaves. When the bases of leaves have branches coming out of them, you can remove those leaves. Always begin with leaves that are the highest up, as this will encourage smaller leaves down below to speed up their growth.

Responsible, strategic pruning will allow your plant to enhance its ability to produce THC and repel insects. It will increase your yield in the end, and could provide you with some weed to smoke in the meantime. All in all, when done responsibly, pruning your plants could be a very wise decision for you.


Cleaning out the inside of your plant will help her big time by saving her energy to use else where. Your plant as I see it has made her own decision to get rid of all thoughs useless leaves.
There not getting any light to produce energy for the plant. So the plant dose it and shears her leaves. And that energy is then used into make bigger fatter buds.
In my own opinion… Clean them up and see where your plants are in two weeks
The plants all look great on the outside so by that I would. Just go. With cleaning out all
All the dead leaf s insidr

How far into flower is she ?
Check there P H



Nice! That was my thought

mine as well…but didn’t have the confidence to advise it, lol

Yeah those plants are bigger than my entire grow room I think. Lol

I was going to say. …talk about " Super cropping ". Lol

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What’s it cost you to fill a 200 gallon pot with soil if you don’t mind me asking. I’d have to rent a backhoe once I had the soil ready. And you have 40. I’m amazed!

Ya that’s all we’ll in fine @Blountville.
But what about harvest😂 try hanging that tree upside down in your closet…lmao
And forget sizzors try sheer’s lmao


Hey everyone, thanks for the replies and the compliments on our badonkadonk plants.
@garrigan62 -we are 2-3 weeks into flower. Ordered a pH meter today- good idea.
Unfortunately I’m positive our plants aren’t just self-pruning.
The branches are completely bare until about half way up on almost all of our plants now and more leaves are dying every time we look :confused:
At this point we’re pretty sure it’s the broad mites on an evil rampage and that despite our insane spray regiment they still somehow are destroying our shit.

Here are a few more pictures:
A grim looking center

This picture shows some of the small sprigs/branches turned woody and dead

Almost nothing alive left in the center

Holding some desiccated branches

We are gave them an Organicide watering this morning just in case there’s a fungal issue. And tonight we went back to spraying Grandevo and plan to hit each plant every three days with either that or Green Clean.
Please let us know any more thoughts or suggestions anyone has! We’re trying to stay positive but it sucks to watch huge beautiful hard-won plants lose all their leaves…

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I’m adding more pictures. Hopefully more people will chime in and if not maybe this will help someone someday with the same problem.
Did some heavy pruning on a couple plants today. 4 out of 40…it’s 100F so I wasn’t moving very fast.
We are going to water them with Cal/mag (in case we have a nutrient lock up), Hydroguard (in case we have a dampening-off issue), and Sea-Crop (for immune boost) tomorrow morning. And we might pull out the big guns and hit them with atomized Met52 for the next three nights to try and get broad mites under control now while we still can.

Here are some leaves before the totally crispy phase. Edges kinda look like a nutrient issue, right?:

This is the residue I mentioned before that I think is a coating of Diatomaceous Earth that never fully washed off and now is stuck permanently. Or is it something else?:

And here is another shot of stems turned into leaf-less twigs:

Please comment and let us know if you have any thoughts, suggestions or know of other good resources to check out besides ILGM. Thanks!

I had same results from using DE. It seems to form cement after getting wet and drying.

@Blountville Did your plants seem to suffer from it?

No, think it bothered me more than the plants. Lol

To me i think it just the parts of the plants that aren’t getting enough light, no light theres no way they can grow and survive. I grow indoor but have started using the scrog method and I have leaves that look exactly like those you are showing. Now these leave were fine and healthy until I switched my lighting. Now the plants are sensing it’s time to produce so I think its just the plants way of putting it’s energy to locations that it needs and can grow the best. One question i have are all of your plants looking the same or is it just a few, a third, or half? BTW those are amazing looking! I have 10 going right now and I bet I won’t harvest as much as you get off one plant.

best of luck and keep us updated on them I’d like to see what you get off one of those monsters!

Hey so from what I’m seeing, your plant appears to be draining nutrients from unwanted interior growth that isn’t receiving enough light for the plant to want to keep it. Your post is around aug 16th right? So your a week or so already into transition and that’s when your plant is ready to ditch off the parts of it that won’t create a flower large enough to get pollinated. It’s putting its resources into more important parts.

Interior leaves that are covered with shade die off differently then a leaf exposed to heat/sunlight. This can look like fusarium. You can go through your own checklist however to know you don’t have pyth or fusarium or any other root rot fungi. If you are questioning your watering amount, then ask yourself if you saw an overall yellowing or minor droop prior to the damage. It’s unlikely you will encounter spontaneous fungal complications before preliminary overwatering symptoms.

Also, I would only hold onto those interior leaves/branches if your doing multiple cuts and an early finishing strain that would allow you to leave the small badly formed inside sites for an extra 2-3 weeks without incurring mold. If your doing a single cut, then you may wanna remove those inside sites as you are starting your transition into flowering to push more hormones and potential energy into your outer full sunlight buds.

Extra comments-
Try not to use fungicides if your growing in a live medium with beneficials unless it’s a last resort.
If your concerned about fusarium,

a) don’t leave those lower branches that are only half connected, they will be infestation sites. (Honestly every branch in the bottom foot of your plant should be removed as your plant starts out, those branches often get squeezed out of the main stalk as it rapidly increases its width, they are initially created at a point in the plants infancy where an influx in the utilization of nitrogen caused by hormones creates a situation in which the lower branches are often much much more prone to breaking off. Then you just gotta use tanglefoot on your center stalk to eliminate 95% of all bugs that you need to worry about)

b) never hit the main stem with water at its base, always skirt your plant, it will promote faster horizontal root growth and as long as you put like a thin layer of mulch/straw around your plants base, it should pick up all the moisture it needs from the rest of the pot overnight, and never go dry or be saturated.

c) use a coco coir heavy medium, as it pulls water out of the saturated areas that could potentially deprive your roots of oxygen, and it itself is more resistant to fusarium then a more compost heavy mix.

Good luck man, if you have any questions fire away and I’ll try to check back. Here are what a couple of mine look like in 200 gal pots-