Hi, my first grow has been going well, but have just noticed leaves on bottom mostly, starting to develop a little yellowing and color overall a little less dark green. I am figuring a nutrient deficiency of some sort. Calcium? Magnesium? Nitrogen? Just about to start flowering cycle. Any thoughts and best way to correct? Trying to do organically if possible. Thanks! It’s the biggest one on the left that mostly has the problem but starting to notice on the others as well which are about 3 wks behind.
Lefty there is in distress. I see the leaf issue on the lower leaves but the top leaves are starting to cat claw which is a sign as well. The odd varigation on righty on the lower leaves is a little strange looking too but less concerning.
Tell us more. Soil Brand? Water details: source, anything you’re adding, are you measuring pH, TDS, or EC? Have you had your water tested?
Have you fed the plants anything?
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Hi, thanks for your response. They are all in happy frog soil, pH is 6.4, water has been spring water adjusted to pH 6.6 and I have just started feeding with worm castings. I have other nutrients on the way. I have a tds meter but reading are not consistent so don’t trust it. What do you think is missing? Is it too late or can this be corrected?
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I’m sure you can save it.
Happy Frog is hot stuff, how long have these plants been in this mix for?
Also Cal-Mag in your water is a good idea.
How are you feeding with worm castings? Top dressing?
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Plants have been in that medium the entire grow. I did a tea once and top dressing. I have been worried about feeding due to the happy frog.
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How long as in days/weeks please.
Check the tds on this water. If its under 30 then dont worry about adjusting it. @Deez is on it though.
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6 wks 4 days for lefts, four weeks for the one on the right.
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Sounds about right, add a bit of calmag next feeding. Looks like a calcium deficiency specifically. (Not tryna step on any toes D just figured Id toss that out lol).
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Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks!
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O definitely ph that calmag solution. Really only reason to not pH bottled water id its usually so low ppm wise that it doesnt really matter. Once you add anything, supplement wise, you want to be sure to pH that
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Ok tested tds of water and it’s 48. I haven’t tested run off as numbers seem all over the place.
Sorry guys, doing a bit of work after-hours tonight, thanks for the assist @PurpNGold74 !! Hundo P on the cal mag. Not Sure what’s making lefty look so sad up top tho… what’s the light situation? Distance from plants / type of light? Maybe a light stress.
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Lights are full spectrum LED and lefty is getting close to the light. About 10in away now. Did some topping two days ago
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I was wondering the same. She looks kinda thirsty or freshly watered… ive noticed some leaves give that slight distressd look after ive missd a water or two. Not like the whole plants’ suffering but that lil area is just fussy
10 inches? Doggobe Deez! Good call. Maybe a bit too close
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No worries. What should TDS be of the water being used?
The lower the better. Anything under 100 is pretty good water. Up to 200 is usable. Anything higher and I worry about whats actually in the water. Ur 48 ppm bottled is perfect. No need to pH
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Great. So when I see charts saying water should be 1000ppm is that the run off water or water I am putting in? I came across this article tonight.
That is the ppms of your nutrient solution. My feeds go like this.
Bottled water 25 ppms nil pH
Add nutrients A and B 750 ppms 5.0 pH
Adjust pH up into 6.3-6.8 range
Add microbes
Pour
Measure runoff
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So helpful!! Exactly what I needed. Now to get all the nutrients! Thank you!
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