Exhaust isnt that important during your drying time as long as the humidity and temps are stable. You want just a tiny bit of airflow to keep the air stirred up. Your plants looks amamzing bro! @Frogbutt
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Those looks awesome man!! Great job!
Thank you gentlemen! I am very happy with how things are going. I’m certainly learning a lot and this forum and the people here have really helped that. 
@ChittyChittyBangin Thanks for the info about exhaust during drying. I think that will make things easier to figure out.
I’ll post some trichome picts when the scope arrives and I’ve figured it out.
Have a great weekend everyone!
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@Autos-only @ChittyChittyBangin So I’m noticing yellowing of newer leaves and some rust-like spots forming on leaves of both plants. I was thinking this may be calcium deficiency? I did stop the calmag a few weeks ago, but maybe I did that too soon. I’d appreciate any thoughts on what this may be.
Otherwise things are looking pretty good. Trichomes are starting to become milky on the Critical, I need more practice getting a good clear shot or two through the digital scope.
That looks more like phosphorus deficiency to me
What’s your DLI?
@ChittyChittyBangin Hmm, it started on the newer leaves and is slowly encroaching on the older ones. I’ve read phosphorus starts on older growth and moves to newer, but I’d defer to someone with experience.
@Autos-only DLI for the Critical is 34 or so, for the Northern Lights it is 44. The problem is most apparent with the Critical. Could bump the light level back down to 75%.
Is there a preferred phosphorus to use for quick absorption? Maybe RAW, bird guano or could I just top dress with more Gaia Green bloom. Maybe dissolved in water or in a tea to help absorption?
Thanks for the thoughts.
If you have some bird guano, you could do a tea. Id stir it for at least 12 hours though. Any tea you make is supposed to brew for 12 to 48 hours… but it makes the nutrients immediately avail to the plant.
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No 34 is good just asking cause iv seen light stress show in very weird ways.
They look very close to done? How many weeks left? I wouldn’t be surprised if this is just its way of fading.
@ChittyChittyBangin Great, I appreciate the quick help. I don’t have bird guano, but it will be here tomorrow. I’ll brew it for at least 12 hours before use. I figure it won’t hurt to have it on-hand either way.
@Autos-only Could be, it’s all new to me. They are week 11 this week (Friday). Week 6 of flower. The trichomes were about half clear, half milky. I was going for some amber since I prefer more of a heavy/body effect. I’ll try to get some better close ups of trichs tonight.
@Frogbutt whats the nute value on your guano?
@ChittyChittyBangin It is 0-11-0.
@Autos-only It is mostly on the Critical, but the Northern Lights has some yellowing/fading leaves and curling up a bit on the edges.
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Gotcha. Yea, mines 0-12-0 just making sure there wasnt any nitrogen added. Im really thinking about pushing the phos on mine. I got some 1-34-32 Flower Booster im really thinking about pushing on one GDP to see if theres a change…
@ChittyChittyBangin Yeah, I think I’m doing good on nitrogen! I’d be interested to see how it goes if you decide to go with the Flower Booster.
I didn’t mention it in my first posts, but my initial attempt at autoflowers failed because I misread my notes and added twice the amount of dry amendments when building the growing media. So they sprouted, but then were stunted and not showing any growth. I then started over and made new coir media with probably a bit lower level of amendments than I should have used (gun-shy from the first failed attempt) and new seeds. I’m just happy I made it this far! I have noted many changes to make for next time to try to improve.
@Autos-only Here is the Northern Lights for comparison, something going on there but less so than the Critical. My guess was calcium deficiency but could also be phosphorus…
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Honestly I’m still learning towards light stress, what’s the temps?
@Autos-only Those are some great example pictures. I’m going to check out the website.
Temps are between 77-79F lights on and 74-77F lights off. NL definitely has higher light exposure since it is taller.
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Some strains just won’t tolerate it.
Especially with smaller lights because people typically get them very close and it acts as a laser beam lol
Typically you want around 32-40 watts of high efficiency leds per square foot of tent area/ canopy.
Bar style lighting is the best for even coverage.
@Autos-only I have the ViparSpectra KS3000 320W which is a bar style light so I don’t think I have typical hot spots. The NL does seem more sensitive to changes than the Critical.
I did go ahead and reduce the light intensity to 75% so we’ll see how that goes. 
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