My seedlings are starting to turn yellow. The one seedling has leaves that are curling a lot and it has been growing like that from the start. The other seedling looks healthy but it’s got a very yellowish green. I feel like they are taking forever to grow. Soil looks dry on top but it is damp on inside. My first couple waters I just used spring water because I didn’t have ph up/down yet
Day 14
Fox farms light warrior
Rh has been locked 60-70
Light might be too intense? How far is the fixture above the plants and what’s the dial at?
14" I had it at 24" but i thought the one was reaching far so i lowered the light. 18/6 mars hydro fc-e3000 300w on 30%
Ok, do you have a ppfd meter? I actually have that fixture in my inventory.
Also- what are the temps and humidity?
i do not i just went with the recommend settings from mars.
Rh has been pretty good 65% mostly
temps have been like 65-80
Looks like a good range based off this chart. Temp and humidity wise.
Do you have a smart phone? If so look for an app called photone. It’s not the most accurate, but it’ll work.
Edit
For flower 600-1000
You want to work your way up to more intense numbers for each stage. A hard transition can cause problems with the plants. They need to “harden off” and gradually adjust to light changes.
Watering practices should be minimal.
is it possible it could be my humidifier…? I was using tap water until i learned that tap water is very bad for humidifier
You should put a dome over them and spray the inside of the dome with water. Good luck with your grow. Welcome to the community these growers here are knowledgeable and will help you with any questions
the photone app is reading anywhere from 100-150
That should be a good range! Tap water isn’t great because it causes calcium buildup in the machine, and it can leave a white powder on the leaves.
The dome idea isn’t bad and a lot of growers use it for controlling humidity. But usually not needed.
With seedlings less is more when it comes to water.
Save those 2 charts, it’ll help you know where to be in the environment and light intensity.
Let that soil dry out and give them time. 
yeah im still trying to get the watering down as well, how long should i wait to water?? Last water i waited until the soil was pretty dry because i thought i over watered them or something.
Over watering is caused by frequency. Not by how much you add in at a time. Anyhow, with that said, seedlings are temperamental. you could probably get away with giving an oz or 2 of water when it’s dry. Don’t pour it where the plant is coming out of the dirt, pour it around the edge of the soil. You want to feed the roots and make them look for the water sources. I personally don’t like to get seedlings wet, it can lead to dampening off, or stem rot. Once the roots hit the edges of the cup you will see an increase in demand, at this point you can start giving enough water to get a little run off. Shortly after this point you should be potting up.
Oscillating and fixed fans provide too much direct wind.
I use my extractor with the bottom vents open to provide the right range of air flow without the need for fans. In a greenhouse that number is between 0.3-1.0meters per second if you need a reference for exact wind speeds on leaves. Fans far exceed this in your set up.
Soil should just need water nothing else for first two weeks and grow a bigger plant than this, advice don’t fuss it.
Temperature has a bigger effect than humidity, as does light so getting them in range is much more important for growth almost to the point if humidity isn’t excessively high I wouldn’t bother, in the wild they do not show stress from humidity below 70, above and you get into the range of rot.
If your looking to get the correct temperature and humidity then your sensor needs to be shaded from all light indirect and direct. You do not want to read light radiation as that will make the humidity level reading go down and temperature up. If it’s below your light that’s the wrong place. You can Google how they take the air temperature reading for the weather report on the news to confirm they do not allow any light to hit their sensors.
It should be simple to raise a seedling, I’d hazard a guess you would have done better than this just putting in in a window. When we look at the variables wind light and temperature are normally the reason why grow tents fail from the off. To get these right is the real difference, your leaves look exhausted from water loss, probably why they are leaning over too, a well watered seedling will be firm and straight full of water. Here we see the balance - light hitting a leaf means stomata will be open, they can’t shut. You must adjust the climate for that water loss.
Good luck, probably I’d start again, keep them going in new climate to check they recover to confirm. If new growth comes out good brilliant, old growth will probably not recover even get worse for a period.
i know im not the brightest bulb growing you marijuana but how do you start your own question or forum on here… cant seem to figure out how to start my own thread
Welcome to the forum @itsmehippy
Also welcome @tryingtotry
Click the 3 bars in the top right corner of your screen, then click topics, then you will see a tab for new topic
I have the same light.
Fill the cups with a little more Light Warrior that has been dampened a little. Give her a gentle watering around the edges with a 1/2 strength plant food for cannabis. They will be fine.
That will support the lanky stem better and it will grow new roots to help.
You can raise the light about 6 inches and not change the amount the plants are getting significantly.
Light Warrior needs food. Here is a screen capture from FF website…
Do you have ph correct water now? Did the spring water say “ph adjusted for flavor”? They Jack up the minerals and ph to make the spring water alkaline, where most people blindfolded prefer the taste.
What I am getting at is it could have been too high ph. What is your non adjusted tap water at for PH.
I feel if it was light burn they would have just gone crispy as seedling and not yellowed like nute lock (ph is where my thought are going).
Cold and fans can be a problem, but cold would cause damping off and a rotten stem felling the little tree. Wind would cause it to fall sideways or over not yellow unless it was some dry desert winds desiccating it.
I am just saying if it’s from an early sprout ph shock from your tap or spring water being too high? Then it’s easy to fix and those plants will grow thru it for sure.
My seedlings made it thru several wind storms blowin them flat, and haven’t had a day over 60 degrees F their whole life. Not advocating for this routine, but they are no worse for the wear.
Yes yes do this too👆. Solid advise spiney Norman
Soil = very strong alkalinity
Water = very weak alkalinity
The power of low ppm things do not have much affect on high ppm things.
Watering soil dosent have much effect pH wise, even fertilizer has so little acidity compared to soils alkaline strength of neutralisation.
Soil is also a buffer, weak strong acids etc at play.
Of course it would be good if you could use low strength stuff to adjust a high strength soil but it really won’t work like that.
Consider the acidity of a 500ppm feed, soil has millions of ppm worth of acidity and alkaline neutralising stuff in it, pour 500ppm and pH should never change and buffer to its preset.
when you say plant food, is Down to earth all purpose organic fert 4-6-2 good? I got scared the other day and top dressed like a tsp of that and a tbsp of worm castings in both plants @Spiney_norman
ph problem is fixed, i just used bottled irish springs water for the first couple waters because i didnt have my ph up/down yet. irish springs ph’d at 7 … TY for the advice yall i will try both suggestions @noddykitty1
