So I decided to utilize a 4x5 closet space with plenty of head room into either veg or flower space. That has yet to be determined. I was planning on venting the space up through the attic with rigid ducting to the outside with my cloud line s6. I am having a difficult time deciding on how to bring fresh air in. Especially since the closet is cold in the winter and hot in the summer. My really only option is to use some sort of intake from the adjacent room that is climate controlled year around.
Would an in-line s4 be sufficient to pull climate controlled air in. Or should I purchase and s8 for exhaust and use my s6 for intake. Or would two s6 fans be sufficient? The closet is bigger than the space I’m using. I was planning on just using half of the closet space. I’d like to contain odor and climate if possible.
Just looking for some pointers from experienced closet growers to maximize the space. I’ve had this project on the drawing board for a solid month or so and I’ve been doing as much searching on multiple forums as possible. It’s really just got my head spinning and starting to think I’m over planning.
@MeEasy @Hellraiser @Newt @JaneQP @SilvaBack203
Can any of you gals and guys tag anyone you know in that can help if you can not?
What is the height of the closet?
I was told to try to replace the air in your space 3 times a minute for best cooling. To figure this take your room 4 x 5 x height = cubic feet x 3 = recommended cfm. As for the intake I have a single 6’ ac cloudline for exhaust and I put 2 6" ac rexial fans for my intake, did 2 so I’d have one on each side. They are way too much and I could have gone with the 4" rexial from ac, ac actually told me I shouldn’t use the rexial fans because they were not designed to have any back pressure but I had already bought them. They’ve been in there for at least a year without a problem I just run them on low unless it’s to hot in the tent then I open the door a little to avoid pressure and crank em up on high
Height of closet is about 8ft. But a good third of it is on a slant from the roof. But the slanted ceiling doesn’t start for about 4.5ft up the the outside wall. Inside wall goes straight up.
I’m really leaning towards using it as a veg space and maybe a auto or two. Then using my tents for flower.
Only reason I was thinking the inline fans is because I have two controllers 67 that I can use. I was looking at their closet fans that look like they can be attached to the doors. But I don’t think they are comp with the controllers.
@MeEasy so your saying you have been using their inline booster fans as your intakes? Because you are right. It does say on their website not to use as a stand alone. But hey if it’s been working for you for a couple years. You really can’t beat the price.
How good are you at doing drywall work?
Mason by trade. Dry way no issues.
With a bigger fan doing the exhaust work, I can see using the cheaper booster fans for intake, already got air flow going to the exhaust so not much back pressure i would think.
Yes but as I said I don’t run them on high even with the cloudline running on high because they blow the tent up like a giant balloon 
and build quite a bit of positive pressure on the fans but on low they’re great even with the fan running on a 67 controller. I put the intake fans on it because with the cloudline on high I thought the tent would implode bending the poles. During flower the tent is pretty sealed up to keep light out and just a couple flex vent tubes weren’t enough. Your not going to have a problem with the walls caving in and probably won’t need intake fans as long as you have a large enough vent hole passive flow might be good
I’d be running them into a closet which is far from a sealed environment like a tent. Like I said I’d only be using half the length of the closet. So I guess I’d have to consider the whole dimension of the closet not just what I’m using for the grow to calculate the cfm needed. Unless I frame out a thin dummy wall and line it with poly. To make it a sealed environment.
You can cut out section of drywall between rooms and caulk a piece of plywood between studs. Then just put 16" return vent covers over bottom of each side. Will look like natural return, but also function as light trap making air go up and over board then back down into your closet.
It may work passively, or you could install fan pictured above.
I really appreciate the quick feedback. As I need to start making decisions and adding the final touches. I popped a bag of testers I received from Heart and Soil Project. Had all ten beans pop in less than 24 hours in the paper towel. Planted them Saturday and have had 8 out of the ten poke through the soil so far. Hopefully I find a keeper or two out of the bunch.
That’s how I was planning on putting in the intake. I was going to put a return cover on the outside of the closet to mask opening. If I didn’t go with the intake I pictured above.
I never thought of the plywood idea though. Or passive intake either. Especially if I have a strong enough fan venting out. I might just play it by ear. I really don’t think I need to be pushing air in until it gets hot in the summer.
For sure. Board will just keep your space light tight as long as its high enough. I think i had 10" tall vent and put board up another 10" or so. That is how intake on my old basement room was setup. It worked good enough.
At some point in the near future I’m going to be picking your brain about building some light boards. I definitely have sufficient light to start. But was considering building some boards because of the off size. Plus I’m planning on running a couple different strains to do a little hunt. I’d imagine a handful of smaller lights to address heights would be more appropriate. But I’d like to know if I could run them on a single driver versus having four or five different lights hanging with all their own separate drivers. If that makes any sense?
@dbrn32
Depends on what you’re thinking in terms of light size. For instance, you could put several quantum boards on a single driver and just have boards mounted on their own individual heatsinks. But largest driver you’re going to find is about 600 watts. You would also maybe have to get cute with wiring. But it can definitely be done.
Yea that’s what I was thinking. Four maybe five q boards to one driver. So lights can get moved around appropriately. Versus one or two larger fixtures. I’m keeping my 300L rspec v2 for my tent. I like the idea of the ability to move the lights around. Also I think HLG came out with a new programmable driver? I know I have options. And I’m trying to do it the most cost effective way as possible. But definitely don’t want to sell myself short.
@dbrn32 also interested in looking into the lights aci came out with. I saw they had some issues with the ion boards with the programmable driver. I was very interested in their qb style light. They put the diodes on the outside of the boards closer together so the edges don’t drop out like HLG does. But for the wattage and price point HLG still has them beat. I’m also starting to learn I may not necessarily need over 1k of light and some strains do better than others with less intense light. Like I said I have handful of good genetics I want to find keepers out of. Once I do that I figured I’d build my grow areas around that. Right now I just want to create a nice stable environment and get that down.
I’m not sure I’d be much help. All of mt growing is tent growing. Best advice, more air exchange capacity is better than less.