Need help identify deficiency/disease

Hey ILGM forum!

Looking to see if you guys are able to help me out with identifying what appears to be 1 or 2 deficiencies with my plants.

I am running a few auto strains that have been put in Fox Farms Oceans Forest mixed with perlite since being germinated. They have been in the soil for 3 weeks now. The signs of the first lower leaves on one of the plants turning yellow, bridle, and crumbling happened toward the end of week 2. At first I thought it may be light burn as the plants were only about 8-12 inches away from the light (using LED) Moved the light at week 2 to about 3 feet above the plants. But after doing some research I believe it may be Nitrogen deficiency as others are now having the same issue after I moved the light further away. Now at week 3 there are others having the same issue.

The 2nd issue which may also be Nitrogen deficiency is that some of the leaves midway up/at the top are getting brown spots in the middle.

I am a bit confused how they are having a deficiency with Oceans Forest as from what I read they should need any nutes until after 3-4 weeks as the soil should have everything they need in the first few weeks.

The PH of the water I’ve been using has been in the range of 6.3 - 6.8

Here are the screenshots. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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Welcome to a brilliant forum. Don’t think it’s a deficiency If anything too much. Have you checked your runoff PPM. I’m thinking nute burn but not 100%. Runoff PPM will confirm or deny this. Some of the team will be along shortly who are more experienced and will know for sure.
There are leaf charts on here that show the various nutrient problems associated with growing but I can’t seem to load them.

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If all the issues are on the lower leaves, my first response would be water/solution splash or contact with wet soil


Agree with the others on comments about lower leaves. They tend to do that. I would note though that OF doesn’t need nutes for 6 weeks and she does look a little nute burned. It’s definitely not a deficiency. It’s nute burn if anything.


Looks like nutrient burn to me. The bottom leaf was prob touching soil also which can cause nutrient burn.

Here is symptom checker for reference to deficiencies and such.


Is correct in saying ( NUTRIENT BURN )



and this is (NUTRIENT BURN )




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          ?Nutrient Burn is one of the MOST common mistakes a new grower makes,

The reason for this is, because a newer grower will use a chemical nutrient
most of the time and listen to the directions on the box. This is a NO NO!
Depending on the age of the plant, size, strain and soil mixture you are using
also has a factor. There is no set guideline when using nutrients, but I can
give you a good example to start out with so you will not burn your plants.
It’s always good to start out light, rather than feed heavy. Remember you can
always add more later, but can not take out when you added to much. Chemical
and Organic nutrients differ. Chemical nutrients are more readily available
and can burn way easier than organics can. Organics are easier for a newer
grower to use, most of the time, and lessen your chances of burning your plants.
I recommend not using more than ½ teaspoon of chemical nutrients per gallon
of water. Unless the plants are very big 5 feet+, then it’s safe to use 1
teaspoon per gallon of water. When your plants first emerge you want to wait
at least 2 weeks before feeding your plants, unless your plants are in a soiless
mixture, like pro mix. The cotyledons (its first set of round looking leaves) are
what give the plant its food until they get the first 2 or 3 sets of leaves. If
your plants are in a soiless mixture and are over the first week of age; you can
feed a weak amount of nutrients, like ÂĽ teaspoon per gallon of water. Soiless
mixtures are different from soil plants and soiless plants need to be fed more
when using this mixture.

I also recommend not feeding more than 1 time a week if using ½ teaspoon per
gallon of water for chemical nutrients. You can feed every other day,( this
goes for chemical and organics) at very weak amounts, but doing this may contribute
to over watering, and for that I do not recommend feeding more than once a week.
Some people feed 2 times a week using like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water… Use 1/4
strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from the 2nd feeding when
using chemical nutrients. It’s very easy to overdo it. When using organics, depending
on which one you’re using, I recommend using 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. When the
plant gets bigger you can work your way up to using more nutrients when the plants
get bigger.

As for soil mixtures, there are a lot of different kinds of soil’s out there. Using a
rich soil mixture is not recommended for seedlings. Seedlings that are under 2
weeks of age you do not want to start them in rich soil, using a seed starter
mixture is one of the safer ways. Seed starter mixtures are weak in nutrients,
so it will not burn the seedlings but will provide them enough to get past seedling
stage, but the downside is you have to transplant into a better soil mixture after 2
weeks of age. If you decide to start with this mixture, do not put your seedlings
into a big pot. Start them out with using a cup or a small pot.

Nutrient Burn causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. They can also be brown
and twisted and crispy looking. Depending on the severity it can show many different
symptoms and shows on lower part of the plant when its young, at older stages it
can move anywhere on the plant. The burn will creep into the center of the leaf
causing it to curl and dry up. It depends on the specific nutrient that is in excess.
For example, too much nitrogen causes leaves to curl downwards and too much potassium
creates brown spots near the edge of the leaf. Either way, nutrient burn may potentially
kill your plant or lead to it having a strong chemical taste.

To fix the problem when you have Nutrient burn, you want to flush out the plants
with lots of water.


Soil should be flushed with lots of water, Use 3 gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
Flush very thoroughly, after plant recovers usually after a week, you can resume using
nutrients after a week or a week 1/2. When you flush your soil, you flush everything out,
a lot of nutrients go with it, including the soil nutrients.

Hydro `````````````````
Change out the reservoir, flush out any lines and clean out the entire system and
replace with plain water for the first hour, then start out with lower parts per
million (PPM)
Its good to clean out your system every 2 weeks and replace with fresh water and
nutrients. Some people change everything every week!

Ahh, nute burn! Stop this by not adding to much chemical/organic nutrients to your
water,foliar feeding. DONT feed more than 1 time a week unless using weak amount,
use 1/4 strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from then on when
using chemical nutrients. Its very easy to overdo it. Causes leaf tips to appear
yellow or burnt. NEVER give nutrients to plants that are under 2 weeks of age, at
this age the soil nutrients are enough to suppliment them untill 2 weeks of age or
more depending on how good your soil is. Using ferts before 2 weeks will almost
likley kill your plants.


Thanks for the replies. It did start out on the lower leaves but has since moved up to the mid level leaves. I purchased a PPM meter and it should be here in a couple days so that I can test the run off water. I have been trying hard to ensure I do not over water so there hasn’t been much run off from them but on the next watering I think I am going to give them a little more water since right now I have been watering every other day.

Once I get the meter I will test and post results here.


Okay got a PPM meter and did some testing. Here are the results below.

TDS of the water prior to watering - 158ppm

PH of water prior to watering - 6.55

Below are the results of the water run off after being poured through the soil (Fox Farms Ocean Forest) First like half gallon of water I poured through it was clear so I didn’t test it. After about a minute or two the bottom of the smart pot re-absorbed the clear looking water. Watered it again with more run off that had some color to it. Poured it into a coffee filter to filter out the soil and tested the PH and TDS. Below are the results.

TDS - 1,580ppm :open_mouth:

PH - 6.09PH

So with these findings… I am wondering if my problem is that I wasn’t watering them enough like in their 2nd and 3rd week to maybe kind of flush out of the HOT nutes from Fox Farms Ocean Forest since it looks like nute burn. Just a guess… Any help is appreciated.



Here this mite help you out my friend…

Knowing What Your Plants Are Eating and How Much
They Can Handle
October 20, 2016 by Devin Martinez
One big question growers ask is “Why are my plants
suffering even though
I used all the right nutrients, feeding cycles,
lighting cycles, and adjusted
temperatures and conditions to their absolute
That’s because their pH and PPM levels are off,
making it difficult for your
plants to eat. pH refers to potential of Hydrogen
ions in your water, which
will determine if your water is too acidic or has
too much alkaline in it.
PPM (parts per million) refers to the concentration of minerals and soluble
matter in your watering solution.
Correct pH and PPM levels are the backbone of any grow,
and will be the
difference between a healthy grow and a huge waste of
time and money.
pH Levels
Simply put: the right pH level will create an environment
where your plants
can absorb nutrients quickly and easily, leading to a
better harvest.
Nutrient-rich water is filled with elements that are
helpful to your plants.
However, if those elements can be broken down properly
those same elements
can harm your plants.
pH levels is important to understand because the right
level will determine
the quality of helpful bacteria in your water that help
break down elements,
helping the metabolic rate of your plants. How? In two

When pH levels are too low (pH level of around 5 of lower), heavy
metals like iron and aluminum change and can become toxic
to your plants ?

If the pH level is too high (pH level of around 6.5 or
elements like calcium and phosphorus can’t be broken down
completely, which
will hinder the growth of your plants
This change in properties is due to how acidic your water
is or is not.
You’ll want your plants’ nutrients to be a little acidic
otherwise they can’t
break down, but too much acidity and your nutrients can
become toxic.
So remember: pH too low= toxic to your plants, too
high= growth decrease.
That’s why you want to have the perfect level of acidity
in your water,
which will be around 5.5-6.0
Typical pH Levels ?

3.5 and below: Root Damage ?

4.0-4.5: Poor Nutrient Uptake ?

5.0-5.4: Good pH Level ?

5.4-5.8: Perfect pH Level ?

6.0-7.0: Acceptable pH Balance ?

7.5-8.0: Poor Nutrient Uptake ?

8.5 and Above: Root Damage

Note: Soil grown plants tend to need a little bit higher of
a pH than hydroponics
because soil retains and releases certain elements to your
plants at different times.
However, both hydroponic and soil pH levels should stay
within the same optimal range
of 5.5-6.0 pH.
PPM Levels
PPM (Parts Per Million) refers to concentration of the particulates in your feeding
From minerals found in tap water to natural elements found in your nutrients, your
job is to make sure that the PPM levels in your water
solution are on point so you’re
not under- or over-feeding your plants. While it’s an easy
concept to understand on
the surface, it’s a little more complicated when you have
to adjust elements.
Now, pH plays a huge factor in PPM levels because even
though you may have the correct
PPM reading, some of the particles- and the concentration
of those particles- can be
harmful for your plants.
For example, let’s say your plants need to be at a PPM
level of 700. You mix your
solution and you get a PPM reading of 700 but your pH is
around 4.5. That means that
the majority of the available food for your plants is
likely to have lots of heavy
metals in it, which will quickly toxify the plant. You’ll
need to adjust the pH level
of your solution to make sure you’re not toxifying your
“But won’t that throw my PPM levels off because you’re
adding particles to your feeding
solution?” It can, and that’s what’s so tricky about PPM
and pH levels: When you adjust
one you usually have to adjust the other, which can be
simple or a huge pain depending
on the water and nutrients you’re feeding your plants.
Common PPM Readings

These readings reflect the PPM your water should have at
a given stage of growth
? Seedlings: 100-250 (nutrients aren’t really
needed here, hence there’s not a
lot of particles needed)

? First Half of Vegging Cycle: 300-400 (this is
usually after you transplant,
which still don’t require many nutrients)

? Second Half of Vegging: 450-700 (you’ll start giving your plants more nutrients
at this stage)
? First Half of Flowering: 750-950 (your plants will be eating more as they grow,
so they’ll be taking in more nutrients)

? Second Half of Flowering: 1000-1600 (this is when your plant’s eating the most,
especially if you give it additives)

? End of Flower, Entering Harvest: As close to 0 as possible (this is when you’ll
be flushing your plants, so you don’t want there to be a lot of particles left over)
Adjusting pH Levels
When it comes to feeding plants there’s two ways of looking at it: homemade or store bought.
Same goes with balancing your pH: you can either purchase a pH buffer from a store or you
can use ingredients you can find around your home or in the grocery store– but both come
with their advantages and disadvantages.
Homemade pH Buffers
? Advantage: If pH levels are low you can use a little citric acid or even white
vinegar to help bring your water’s pH down. When you need to raise your pH levels you
can use a little bit of baking soda in your solution and bring those readings back up.
This will cost you less than picking up a buffering
solution. ?
The issue with using these solutions
is that they don’t work for
very long. You’ll find yourself having to add a little
lemon juice every other day, then
having to use a little baking soda to even things out.
Moreover, we’ve also heard of
growers using these ingredients and seeing severe spikes
in pH, which if not handled
properly and quickly and bring your grow to a halt.
Premade pH Buffers

Most hydroponic companies out there
will have pH buffers, usually
called . They’re much easier to use than citric acid or
white vinegar mixes. They’re
designed raise and lower the pH of your water while
keeping your water’s pH levels
balanced for longer than it would be without them.
? Disadvantage: As we’ve always mentioned, easier
usually means more expensive.
These solutions usually won’t cost you an arm and a leg,
but they’re definitely something
you can’t simply make at home and will cost some money.
Adjusting PPM Levels
Before you start adjusting your PPM levels, you’ll first
want to make sure your tap water
is ready to feed your plants. That means you’ll want to
adjust the PPM of your base water
before you start feeding it to your plants Now, any time
you add anything in to your watering
solution, you’ll be adding more particles in to it, so
keep an eye out on your PPM levels at
all times.
? To rid your water of too many particles you
can use things like a carbon filter or a
reverse osmosis machine to clean your water. However,
many growers agree that most tap water
has helpful minerals (like calcium and magnesium) that
actually help plants.
? During and after the vegging stage, your plants
will want more out of their feedings
so filtering isn’t really necessary. That’s why we
recommend only using filters at the
beginning of the plants life when low PPM readings are

For a quick fix when PPM’s are high just add a bit
of fresh water with a good pH
level and watch them drop. Filtered, pH’ed water is great
when things get a little too
much in your reservoirs.
When readings are low it’s usually time to feed
your plants. When you add nutrients
to your feeding solution your PPM’s will go back up, and
when your PPM’s and pH’s are in
balance your plants are going to be happy and healthy.
Just remember that these readings need constant
adjustment, so if you haven’t been
keeping a close eye on your plant’s PPM and pH levels
there’s not better time to start than now.

1 Like

I’m 6 and 1/2 weeks in from first leaves showing from being in soil. The Blueberry is super short and thick with bud. The other 4 are tall and super bushy.

I watered all about 3 days ago. I lifted them all up and the 4 (besides the Blueberry) they were dry so I watered em with a tsp and a half of big bloom from fox farms which I have been doing for 2 weeks now (adjusted PH to 6.5-6.6) and tested the ppm run off which was about 750ppm. I should be having higher ppm at this point right? I know I was getting nute burn a few weeks in when I as getting about 1700 ppm run off due to the rich/hot fox farms oceans forest…as per form recommendation I did run 2-3 gallons through each plant… now I’m wondering if the others aren’t getting enough nutes to bloom. Any advice? The other 4 are at least 2-3x the height of the Blueberry. There are 3 strains.

2 - Amnesia Haze Autoflower
1 - Blueberry Autoflower
2 - Northern Lights Autoflower

Hi guys. Growing in Humboldt can’t understand what happen to that plant? Have 900 plants and 2 or 3 like this. I am using only CANNA Product. Any ideas



Having a hard time creating a new topic, getting an error that I’m not allowed to view the requested resource, so I thought I would Hail Mary and reply to this recent view one. I’ll start a grow journal if I can fix the error, anywho…

First time grower, not sure If I did something wrong. I tried looking through images to find a matching problem, but nothing I saw matched. My setup so far:
4x Auto Blueberry from Seedsman Day 12 from germination
2x Auto Northern Lights from Seedsman Day 13 from germination

Soil: fox farms seed starter, about 1 cup, placed inside ocean forest, with the bottom third kind soil super soil.

Germination teckniques: Northern Lights were just sprouting in 5 gallon root trapper squat pots with the above soil, misting twice a day. Came up in 3 days, looking great for the first week after that. Blueberries were in distilled water for 24 hours, then planted, came up a day after the norther lights, 2 in 3 gallon containers, and 2 in 5 gallon containers.

Lights: All are under a spiderfarmer SF-2000, pulling just over 200 watts, with LUX of 9000 at the level of the seedlings with a stand alone meter. schedule is 20/4

Watering has been daily with distilled water, using a spray bottle, just a few ounces each day. I have not seen any drooping, trying to be careful.

Environment: Temp has been between 70-83 F, humidity is usually right at 50%, but did reach 78% for 2 days before I got my ventilation setup tweaked. The lowest I have recorded is 38%, right before I water. I have an oscillating fan in the tents, on anytime the light is on.

Everything looked good until this last week, about half of the plants developed the lighter colored areas seen in the picture, I also have an older picture from the beginning of the week that doesn’t have spots. No visible problems on the underside of the leaf, no bugs, doesn’t rub off. Seems to be mostly on the first real set of leaves, newer growth looks looks pretty much fine.

Any ideas what is happening to my girls?

First Pic Is from 5 days ago, the rest are from today

One of the more afected ones Group shot from today looks good to me She has the worst spots The average reading

@octotsent you have to have that unlocked. It doesnt take to much time. Just read a lot of posts and comment on a few and eventually you will be granted the privilege to make a new topic.

It did, thank you

newbie here…same situation with the posts…hopefully I can get this think unlocked…re: your post, from what I’ve been reading online, it seems to be a cal/mag deficiency. One of my plants also started to display dark spots on the lower most leaves, along with the new growth turning lighter…I’ll post some pics and tag you (don’t want to hijack the current thread)

Thanks for all the info here! I’m learning so much.

Can someone tell me what deficiency this is or if there even is a deficiency. Soil is Foxfarm in Ocean Forest mixed 50-50. Occasionally watering with blackstrap molasses and or Cal Meg and iron.