Water: Less than 2-3 liters every 2-5 days.
Lighting: 500-600 ppfd // ~35 DLI on 18/6 schedule
Environment: 75-80F // 55-60% RH
Growing in 5gallon FFOF. Fed 2 tablespoons 444 on week 4, 2 tablespoons 284 on week 8 or 9 when I noticed some of the bottom fan leaves turning pale or yellow. Its been ~1.5 weeks since I fed the 284 and so far only a couple fan leaves have/are dying and it doesn’t seem to be spreading.
There are 2 fan leafs at the top starting to turn light green.
Leaves are drooping and clawing.
Trichomes are starting to turn milky with a few amber I assume it will be ready for harvest within a week or 2?
Hoping to at least get an oz after its dried. Appreciate any feedback or tips. Thanks.
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I normally run 5-600 through veg, ramping up each week until I get up around 1000. Ill stay around 1000 until the end of flower then back down to 7-800 for last 2 weeks. Looking like some good buds though. We’re all here to help and learn. If you want to tag someone just @openMeasure and its sends up a bat signal. Glad to have ya. What part of the world is home to you?
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I’d like to see a shoot from the top down. You mention some top leaves starting to yellow but it can’t be seen
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Yes the plant would have enjoyed more light.
What nutrition choice did you use? I used a product called Dr Earth for 2 runs that produced ugly pot and then I found an actual cannabis feed chart made by the Dr Earth company.
Since then I am a big proponent of searching for a cannabis feed chart and using it as a starting point for the plant you are using.
I would not even consider a manufacturer for nutrition if it did not have a feed chart specifically for Cannabis unless you can find a grow journal where someone lays out the recipe and has a track record of success.
I would get you a bottle of fish shit for amending the 2 8 4 for at least 2 more weeks in your next run. That’s kinda early to reduce N by 50%
From my experience you have 6-8 days of fan leafs if it starts to eat them but you are pretty close to the end.
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Thanks @SausageMahoney sorry for the late reply. I had to wait for the 24 hour comment limit on new accounts
I tried to increase the PFFD to ~800-900 or 50-60 DLI but the top sugar leaves started turning yellow with purple spots, so I turned it back down just to be safe. I guess the change was too sudden. I will try to ramp up during veg and the back down for bloom on my next grow like you suggested
Im in the midwestern US, zone 6.
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Thanks @Budbrother sorry for the late reply, I had to wait for the 24 hour comment limit on new accounts.
Sorry I should have provided better pictures. Some of the sugar leaves are also twisting and starting to turn yellow, but this might be from when I temporarily turned up the light to 800-900ppfd / 50-60 DLI and stressed the plant a few weeks ago.
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I use the Hortus grow app created by @Growmoredank
It has a DLI calculator. If I run 1000 ppfd for 11 hours it gives me about 40.
Even with the auto it’s good to allow them a good 12 hour rest period during flower. Are you measuring ppfd with the app and a diffuser?
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It seems to be working from the base of the petiole towards the tips. That would indicate Fe needed to fuel the K uptake. If you have something rusty that you could soak in the water over night, that would add plenty of Iron (Fe)
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Thanks @Pothead64 sorry for the late reply, I had to wait for the 24 hour limit on new accounts.
I tried to increase the light but I think I stressed the plant by doing it too suddenly. The top sugar leaves started turning yellow and purple so I turned it back down.
Im using Gaia Green Organics 444 All Purpose and 284 Power Bloom. They recommend 1 tablespoon per gallon for indoor plants.
If im understanding correctly, you’re saying I created a nitrogen deficiency by switching straight to 284 instead of doing something like 444/284 blend? Is that why the leaves started turning lighter green, then yellow, now dying? I think I also fed them the 284 a bit late.
Also, I fed them 2 table spoons of 444 in 5 gallons of FFOF and around that time is when I noticed the tips were a little burnt throughout the plant, this means if I increase the dosage I could be risking nutrient burn/lock out correct?
April 19, ~2-3 weeks old
In this image from May 7, about 4 weeks ago. The plant is about 5-6 weeks old and was recently fed 444. I cant remember the exact dates as I didnt log anything properly.
GG 284:
GG 444:
Thanks for the feedback
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Thanks for this information. So basically I just need water with rust/iron in it, then PH it to ~6.2 before I pour it in?
I also think I did feed the plant 2 tablespoons GG 284 a week late. Do you think this could be the cause? Or is it safer to just add iron to the water just in case there is some imbalance in the soil?
Thank you.
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I’ll check it out, currently Im using the photone app with paper as a diffuser and then cross referencing that with my grow light manual to guesstimate the ppfd/DLI
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The phototone app and my par meter were right on with each other.
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Here is the actual gia green feed card for cannabis.
It is difficult to run just the 2 products of gia green that you have. If you look at the product line it has a bunch of other amendments due to micronutrients that will be needed at different times in the grow.
I have followed a few guys running GG and the really successful growers had just about the whole line.
You have made a reference to a lockout condition in your organic grow. You are not using a chemical fertilizer that has a salt component to it and a classic lockout should not be possible.
There are a few things I see in the grow from an organic grower. The top damage when you turned up the lights just happened again to me. I have from the second run used cal-mag at 3ml per gal maintenance dose when lights hit 75% of max. I had to move my dose up to 5ml per gallon and the real pain is that it is not totally caused by the lights sucking out the nutrients.
High levels of potassium use the same exchange sites as calcium and magnesium and can BLOCK these sites at at my 6.3 pH for organics P converts at 2 times the rate of calcium and mag. My nutrients also are high in potassium at 3 9 4 and my mainline plants are so old that have prolly 1 and a 1/4 cups of bloom in the pot. So now I have nutrient p blocking this and calcium blocking that and it’s a real hot mess.
Research gypsum for an organic prep. Some growers mentioned it to me last week and I have been reading everything I can on amending the soil with gypsum to prevent even needed cal-mag in the house.
Also. I have already ran down the rabbit hole on measuring light energy. I use a simple Lux meter and although I do have an app that converts it to ppfd I almost never use the app. It is unwieldy to have to things one to run to each flower top for max and one in your hand to read it.
I did run through the whole process of seeing if the ppfd was close and it was very close with less than 3% variance from the published PAR maps by both of the light manufacturers I use. Now I know that 55k lux is tops for this strain and 65k lux for the light hungry plants.
Of course measuring does not ensure you will not damage a plant top. After watering during stretch I had my Gelato cross move 3 inches overnight and on morning turn on I was not around and did not get to them until noon. It was pretty bad but it’s still alive and actually swelling up for finals week or 2.
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Thanks for this information. Im new to growing plants in general and I don’t understand the nutrient blocking that you’re talking about. Is it basically just imbalanced soil?
If I add calmag now would the plant heal or just minimize damage going forward? Is it even worth it at this point in the grow? Im guessing the trichomes will be ready within a week or two and anything I add wont be able to absorb in time.
When you see yellow appear on the lower it is because a mobile nutrient ( N ) is being moved to new growth.
When you see yellow appear up top and it accelerates quickly into crispy fried leaves it’s a nutrient deficient that this particular leaf needs to live and something else is hogging it, something is taking priority in the uptake chain due to demand or pH , or you do not have enough of something and if it’s that it normally starts eating stuff quickly.
There are some informational things I would like to post here but they link to pay for sites so all I can say is research the following changes.
The chart for pH and what pH nutrients like for best uptake.
The chart for what nutrients a cannabis plant needs by weeks. This one will show you why the lower fades. Nitrogen does not change much until mid flower.
The chart for VPD aka as the relationship between temp and humidity. When you look at a pot plant and see a table top flat presentation that is in an appropriate VPD. But do not sweat it if you can not control it perfectly. The plant will adapt.
I am only 5 grows in and 2 years myself. I read everything and learn by others mistakes by following journals and diaries. This way I can make all new mistakes
Forgot cal-mag
Ok gunna take 10 days to work via roots and do not spray or foliar on flowers.
I have been here. Put the cal-mag in if it’s exhibits the rusted leaf blotches on green leafs even if pale green. If the whole leaf went yellow prolly zinc micronutrient and again this can have triggers. None in the nutrient bag? So much potassium it’s hogging all the uptake sites? Did we swing out pH with some wild drybacks and wetness?
There is a lot to process. Takes time to learn this really cool hobby.
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