Monk's 6th 4 strains, 2 plants each

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2 flower tents and one veg tent.

the veg tent is secret jardin 67 inches tall with a sunsystem 315 LEC, 18in fan in tent to provide air movement, and a humidifier to keep humidity up. i leave the top vent open in the ceiling and a vent low on the side open to provide flow. the reason i don’t put an exhaust fan in is that i can’t keep the humidity up high enough with that much air replacement going on.

the first flower tent is again a secret jardin 67 in tall with a sunsystem 630 LEC, in line exhaust fan, 18 inch fan in tent to provide air movement, carbon filter in front of exhaust fan.

the second flower tent is a gorilla grow tent 94 inches tall with a HLG QB 550 rspec, inline exhaust fan, 16 inch fan in tent for air movement, and carbon filter n front of exhaust fan.

i will be starting two bruce banner seeds later today after i get some distilled water. the three other strains are probably going to be blue haze, banana kush, and granddaddy purple.

I fixed the problems i was having with germ/seedlings stage last time by using some h2o2 in the distilled water and planting as soon as i saw a tail. i will be using roots organic original soil in the solo cups, one clear cup with holes inside one opaque cup with holes so i can check the roots.

i will be using super soil bought from the treehouse with a blend of coco coir mixed in to help get air into the 3 gallon cloth pots i will be using.

i now have a ppm meter which i have yet to use and still need to learn to use, but i’m hoping that this will finally help with the leaf yellowing problems i’ve had 3 to 5 weeks into flowering. i have 4 gdp in my last grow that are just 11 days into flowering so hopefully i will figure out how to use the ppm meter and get the yellowing issue figured out so that this grow i will have healthy plants all the way thru the grow. i will still plan on the leaves yellowing in the last 3 or 4 weeks of flowering as it is supposed to and maybe they won’t be yellow, maybe some red, blue, or purple in there instead :smile:

this will be a staggered start as i will start the seed in accordance with the harvest from the two flower tents.

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dropped two bruce banner seeds into distilled water/ H2O2 mix at 6pm tonight.

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here ya go guys @Arborholic @DefNSmokn

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Set to watch! Good luck :four_leaf_clover:

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thanks arbor and welcome aboard

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Thanks for the tag Monk!!! Looking forward to this grow!

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yw def, me too, am hoping to finally jump some hurdles and bring my skills up a little more

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Hope you don’t mind if I tag along. I am going to try seeds this winter instead of clones and know nothing about germination or caring for seedlings. Best to you!

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you are welcome jane. my first two grows i did great on germ/seedling stage, then i got away from what worked because i was experimenting and now i think i have it dialed back in. for germ stage i use an opaque solo cup half full of distilled water with about a cap of H2O2(hydrogen peroxide) in it. put the seeds in and i place the cup in my closet top shelf so that it is in the dark. i check it about two hours later and tap the seeds which typically float when first put into the water. i tap them in hopes that they will sink. if they do, great, if not, no big deal, check them again in six hours and tap them again to try to get them to sink. it has been 8 hours since i put them in the cup and i just tapped them. one went to the bottom and stayed and the other floated back up. the seed will crack and after a bit a tail will show. this is where i was messing up before. i was waiting until the tail was about an eighth inch to a quarter inch long. i no longer do that. when it is a thirtysecond to a sixteenth of an inch long i put the seedling into the soil about a quarter to a half inch deep hole using mychorrizae (great white is the one i use) dusted into the hole before the seed. cover seed with soil.

for seedling stage i use a clear solo cup inside an opaque solo cup. in the clear solo cup i put 5 holes around the sides of the bottom of the cup about a quarter to half inch from the bottom of the cup. the holes are about a quarter inch in diameter. i also put two holes in the bottom of the cup opposite each other with the same diameter. in the opaque cup i put two quarter inch holes in the bottom of the cup. for soil i use a non-nutrient starting soil. the seeds will live off the cotyledon leaves (the first two round leaves) that come up until they are at around veg stage (when the fourth node separates from the main stem). when i use mother earths coco peat potting soil i spray the soil more often than when i use roots organic original soil which is what i will be using this time and i used last time. i do not pour water into the cups i spritz with a spray bottle of distilled water until plant gets to veg stage and i do not spray the leaves, i spray the soil. with the mother earths i sprayed more often and less spritz’s because the soil is airier. with the roots organic it is a solider soil i spray less often but more spritz’s. the way i decide the spritz’s is by feeling the weight of the cup. make sure when you first fill the cup with soil that you get a feeling of what it weighs without water in it. you want to have the cup be mostly dry when you spritz. you can also fill a solo cup with soil and not put a seed in it if you want to have something to compare to after you have started watering. when filling the cups with soil fill half to 3/4 full. the more soil the longer it will be before it is ready to transplant properly. it is easier to transplant when the soil is 3/4 full but takes longer than if the soil is half full. after putting the seed in the soil, cover gently with soil and put under a “gentle” light. they love florescent lights for this stage, and i have some, but am too lazy to swap my LEC 315 in and out of tent so i use the 315 raised to the highest it can get and put the tray i am using as close to the edge(farthest from the light) of the tent that i can get it. i use a jiffy pod tray with cover to put the cups in. i replaced the 3 inch tall cover with a twelve inch tall one and use a tray because i put a hygrometer in it to check for humidity and temp. you don’t have to do this, you can just cut a plastic bottle in half and put the top of bottle over the plant to help hold humidity up. i try to keep humidity between 60 and 70% and temp below 80f with light on and warmer than 65f when light off. i use a 6/2 light schedule right from the beginning. i check the plants 3 to 4 times a day with the “airy” soil because it needs watering more, and i check 2 times a day with the roots organic soil. you can check how far along the roots are by sliding the clear cup out of the opaque one. once you have 4 nodes up it is likely the cotyledon leaves with be yellowed and shriveled up. that is the time when it no longer can feed of itself and it is time to start adding nutes if your soil has none whatsoever but do so at a very low amount. remember, these are kids and can not take the amount of light and nutrients that they can when they grow up. when the roots are crawling up the sides of the cup and filled in decently it is time to transplant. if you let them fill in pretty well then when you transplant there will be less stress on the plant. that is why i like the less soil in the solo cup because i want to transplant just after getting to veg stage. i tried 8 ounce solo cups but the bottom was too narrow and i kept knocking them over. at the veg farm i worked at the young plants that had been started at the florist would come in trays with one inch square holes in it. that would be great and by the time plant was at veg stage that amount of area would be full of roots and would hold together well and that is the goal. to be able to transplant without the soil all falling away from the roots. i have had to transplant early when the soil does fall away from the roots and it can still work but it is harder on the plant.

this is the jist of my germ/seedling stage and i hope it gives you some ideas on how you want to go about it. i didn’t document this for just you. i did this for me. remember, i said i got away from what i did the first couple times and it cost me time and seeds. i did this so that i would remember how i’m going to approach my germ/seedling stage this time lol i’m old and i forget. BUT, there are many roads to Rome and they all get there. you have to find what works for you. this is what works for me, and i know that there are some parts that i didn’t think about and or forgot.

btw, sorry for the length of this, fell asleep at 10 pm and woke at 2:30 to pee and fired one up to help go back to sleep but got stoned and got carried away lol

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here ya go @roaddawg714

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Thank you

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yw bud :grinning:

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both seeds cracked today after about 24 hours

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here’s my new one @Arrow

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both seeds have tails this morning so will plant them today

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and it starts, both bb’s planted and are in the tent under the 315 LEC

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@CoyoteCody @BobbyDigital

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Along for the ride as always. Are you going to do a grow in the roots organic or just starting them out in roots?

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Set to watching thank you brother.

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yw @CoyoteCody

yes @BobbyDigital , just using it for the solo cups. i will transplant into a supersoil/coco coir mix. you don’t happen to have an idea of what ratio i should use do you? i want to get some air into the supersoil. it compacts quite a bit and i thought mixing in some coco would help it and maybe not make me wait for 7 or 8 days to water. or you too cody as i just saw you had your seeds coming up out of the coco

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