Yes, I already have the strips. Got them before PLC went outta business. You are correct on the PLC strips running at 27v per strip at 1400ma. I did some click and paste work on the build and parts list after I received the strips.
Why would the board only run at half power? I’m not sure if I understand that part. I’d still like to have the ability to run full power and dim down.
Let me know what you’re thinking after “digging deeper.” Thanks for the response back! 
The factory driver current is 2.8 amps and the driver you’re wanting to replace with is 1.4 amps.
The term full power is kinda loose. If you want to run the hlg-320 at full power you would need to fill the driver. The vipar board and 4 plc strips won’t do this.
Have you consider leaving the the vipar light how it is and just getting a driver to run the 4 strips?
Gotcha that makes sense to me.
Yeah, I was just seeing if I could have combined the board and strips together without having to buy a different driver. I may go ahead and get a driver compatible (HLG240H C1400B) with 6 of the PLC strips instead of going with 4 strips.
I appreciate the reply back! Enjoy the rest of your weekend. 
No problem, that would work too
AC dehumidifies the air as well, that may be a way of reducing heat.
Agree. AC helps alot.
Here’s my DIY Frankenstein (similar to what I had in my previous group house that was flowering a 4‘ x 6‘ area. I always ran my dimmers at about 70% in that space and with all the light packed into my new 4 x 4 tent I’m going to probably barely hit 50% power at full flower:
Lights on:
Power (Wattage pull) at 50%:
Power at 100%:
If anybody would like some information on how I built this, just let me know.
Absolutely beautiful!
Very nice
I think I can speak for a lot of people by saying yes I want some info! That is beautiful
Sure! That set up consists of 2 a HLG 288XL r-spec DIY kits, and 1 HLG 288 r spec DIY kit (center fixture). Then accompanied by 2 HLG uva.
The frame is 4-way 10-series T-Slot track…2 at 36”, and 4 at 35” (can order them pre-cut from 8020,com)
Then from Amazon:
Metal corner gussets (with screws and nuts)( search for: Qjaiune 2028 Aluminum Profile Connector Set, 20Pcs Black Inside Corner Bracket Gusset with T-Slot Nuts & Screws, L-Shaped Aluminum Extrusion for 2020 Series Aluminum Extrusion Profile with Slot 6mm)
M6 sized bolts (I ordered a variety of sizes as a kit for like $10) (search for: HanTof 125PCS M4 x 8/12/16/20/30mm Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts, Allen Socket Drive Machine Screws Set with Hex Wrenches, 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel, Black Oxide Finish, 0.5mm Pitch, Fully Threaded)
Stainless steel tie down D-rings (search for: EXCELFU 30 Pack Small Stainless Steel D-Ring Tie Downs D Rings Anchor Lashing Ring for Loads on Case Truck Cargo)
Carabiner clips to hold the light heat sink to the d-rings, (search for: 12 Pcs Small Carabiner Clip - Stainless Steel Spring Snap Hook for Bird Feeders or Dog Leash & Harness, Quick Link Keychain(M4,40mm, can Hold 150lbs))
Finally, to assemble it all its straight forward, layout the 2 36” tails and then the 4-35” rails perpendicular as the cross bars and bolt together ensuring to install d-rings as needed……the UVA bolts straight to the tail with the included clips they come with, but you’ll use some of the bolts from the bolt kit above….you will need some additional t-nuts as well, I ordered a pack of 100 for the 10-series rail.
I used some T-slot nuts and bolts in connected for I hooks to the top of the railing to hang it from.
If there’s any other details or pictures that you want to see about how I connected it or anything, just let me know.
Hi, help 
I’m thinking of building a fixture for the 2nd half of my tent (first half has a HLG Scorpion Diablo) from the Samsung modules SI-B8UZ91B20WW.
According to the datasheet, each module has Operating Current of 1120-1800mA, voltage of min/typ/max 21.9/23/24.2 Vdc, and consumption of 24.5/25.8/27.1 W.
How do I calculate what I need in a driver? Help me, Obi-wan @dbrn32, you’re my best hope.
(Also, how many modules do I need to be ~Diablo light output?)
Sounds like a fun project!
The 1800ma operating current listed on data sheet is maximum for this module. They would probably run here for quite a while, but most run these in the 700-1400ma range. The 1120ma is the test current, this is the current the strips are operated at to gather the data listed on data sheet. As a light builder you get to choose the operating current of the light. I have built a few fixtures with f-series 560mm and i used meanwell cc drivers at 1050ma. This would make each strip about 24 watts with probably 60-65 umols/s per strip.
If you were to choose to run at 1050 we can figure the rest out. Im not sure which gen scorpion diablo you have, but the original was 1900 umols/s. To create roughly equal amount of light at 65 umols/s per strip you’d need about 30 strips. You can run at higher current to buy less strips but probably need larger heatsink, or lower current to gain efficiency and have cooler running light, but will cost more needing more strips. I think the 1050ma is a good balance though.
Which driver needed would also depend on decided operating current and how you plan to configure light. If you go 1050ma you can fit 10 strips in series on meanwell hlg-240h-c1050a. That would require 3 drivers to run 30 strips. 3 drivers that large could overload a 15a circuit on inrush current, so may be worth considering
Argh. I screwed up on the datasheet. The LED modules I’m looking at are LT-FB24B based (not FB284B, hence my confusion).
Let’s try again.
The LT-FB24B modules are
Operating Current: 2240 typ/3600 max mA
Operating Voltage: 43.7min/36.0typ/48.4max Vdc
so between 97 and 108 W per module, producing luminance flux of (@3500K), 2240mA) 154 min/171 typ/190 max. And a 15A circuit would seem to be limited to < 18 (theory) but less than that for sure.
How many modules are similar to a Diablo? 6 or 7 maybe?
So you want the 1120mm double row f-series?
These are a little more tricky to fit onto drivers due to the high module voltage. You would need about 8 to get somewhere around output of scorpion diablo. Meanwell hlg-480h-c2100a could run 4 modules with some headspace.
Can’t you just wire the modules up in (parallel/series)?
The Samsung Calculator for the modules SI-B8UZ91B20WW
Current - Test = 2.24A
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) - 46V
Three in parallel yields 46V, 6.7A = ~300W. Wouldn’t a hlg-320h-48a do that?
I don’t see any Meanwell drivers >48v, clearly this module is designed to be used with parallel led module circuits?
3 @ SI-B8UZ91B20WW
1 @ hlg-320h-48a
yields 52800lm, costs about $0.79/w (~$250 + mount)
cf Diablo, $1200 (minus discounts), 715W, $1.67/w, even if that’s a crappy comparison.
Am I looking at this screwy?
It will, but then you have 3,3,2 and need a different driver for last 2 boards if you want 8.
Yes, you can wire in either or both. Just limited driver applications that apply to each method. The idea should be to use drivers that have a little bit of headroom in case you get a strip(s) that have a little higher than nominal forward voltage, but not so big that becomes a lot more expensive than is needed.
54v cv/cc drivers are available from meanwell, but that doesn’t help you with 46v modules. And they can just as easily be wired in series on cc drivers i mentioned above, and you wouldn’t have to worry about thermal runaway. They are designed at 46v because there are a lot of changes required in commercial and industrial applications once voltage exceeds 50v. This doesn’t really have anything to do with how end user applies.
You’re not looking at it screwy, just not considering the full package. Heatsink usa 2.079 at 46" long is going to cost you about $25 per piece. That’s about another $75 per driver taking cost to $325 before you buy angle or whatever else to frame, hardware, wiring, connectors, etc. So i would figure maybe $350 or so. Then you would need 3 of these taking total cost to roughly $1050. Once completed your light would draw more power to have similar intensity and no 660nm.
