Ok… I know I have not been around for awhile, I’ve just been busy.
I have a grow going, and I’m having an issue here I can’t figure out.
Growing in #5 pots with 2.5lbs of hot soil topped off with Pro Mix BX.
Into 3rd week of flowering, and watering 1 liter every other day at a Ph of 6.4.
The plants are a strain called Yeager.
I have leaves that appear to be curling up on the tips and get crispy… Around the middle of the plants, which are around 6ft. tall.
Here’s a pic… Any ideas???
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I’m relatively new to this so let the pros chime in but do you have a way to check the pH of the soil around the roots? One other thought I have is I thought I had a pH problem in the past when in all actuality it turned out to be a small thrip problem. I got it under control over a couple weeks but some of the symptoms looked like pH problems though they weren’t. Good luck and wait for the experts to reply to you before you do anything.
So you don’t water til runoff then? Only 1liter every other day sounds like the medium might have a build up. What strength nutrients are you using every other day? What schedule (feed, water, feed)?
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No… I don’t water to runoff.
Only to a drip from the pots.
I’m using hot soil… No nutes.
Water only…
If she’s in the 3rd week of flower, then she might be hungry. What kind of “hot” soil are you in? If it’s been in that medium for a while, the stored nutrients may be out and you will need to start feeding if that’s the case. How are you ph-ING your water?
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I cook up my own soil, using Sub Kools recipe… But I add a few other things, such as more Green Sand, crushed Oyster shells and Mycorrhizi.
I used 2.5lbs in a 5 gal pot… Which was about 6-7 inches.
Should be more than enough to get thru veg, and flower… shouldn’t it?
I vegged for 5 weeks.
I check my Ph manually with reagents… always have.
I have a 25 gal tank, and I adjust it with CA, and PB crystals all at once, and recheck it before each watering.
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I’m not familiar with all that but let me grab Will. @garrigan62 He can help you out if he’s around I’m sure. @bob31 do you have any ideas here?
@Traumamedic are you checking the TDS of your runoff? Thats the only way to know how long your soil and nutrients still has enough to sustain your plants.
Watering daily can cause problems including moldy soils and soil gnats and other issues ass the soil never gets a chance to dry out. You should be watering them to runoff and then waiting until they are dry enough to water again, unless the medium you are using is soil less and only contains non-soil products in which case you treat it differently.
Now with all that being said, the pics don’t appear to be a pH or a lack of nutrients issue.
How many leaves are affected @Traumamedic
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I really believe that this is your problem. I have added a couple of pic’s that show the same thing as the pic you posted. I will post the solution in my next post
Phosphorus deficiency
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or majhy not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Pho-phorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
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I really believe that this is your problem. I have added a couple of pic’s that show the same thing
Phosphorus deficiency
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or majhy not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Pho-phorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
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@garrigan62 Thanks for jumping in my friend!
THE SOLUTION
Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn’t be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.
Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.
Chemical
Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums
`Organic
Dr. Hornby’s Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
+
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)
Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.
Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.
Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.
Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
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Do you use the J.R. Peters stuff? I’ve been looking for someone here with some experience with it. Trying to decide between using jacks hydro on the 321 schedule, the aqua gold, or if something else they have is better?
Thanks for all the replies…
I appreciate the effort you all put into helping out!
I’m going to go with the Phos. deficiency…
I have some Tiger Bloom left over… Gonna give it a try!!!
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I used subcools recipe too but it is way too hot to use staight up
It is recomended that you use the super soil in the bottom half to bottom third of your container and top it off with some good starter soil or the soil you used as a base it also should bake for at least 30 days and be closely monitored as it is baking.
So could be the cause of the issues you are encountering hopefully @garrigan62 suggestions keep the issue in check but I would be concerned about the soil being too hot for your plants. Happy growing and I could be wrong just finished my first grow maybe the other stuff you added cooled it off for direct planting I dunno but either way happy growing hope to see this issue fixed and get ya back on track to get your girls all healthy again
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Errrf I see I miss read the first part of the thread
Sorry you are obviously on the right track sorry for the info posted
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How close are your plants to your lights and what lights are you using? @Traumamedic
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@Traumamedic, you are using hot soil I have not used it just yet but when I do I will only be using Organic Root for the topping of with the hot soil not any type of Pro-mix hot soil means no nutes my friend, so if I were you I would not add any nutes just yet.
ATM… About 30".
And I’m running a Solistek 1000 watt ballast with a 1000 watt Solistek HPS bulb at 150,000 lumens.