Everything was going good until my leaf started getting spot and yellowing will include pics.
They are white widow auto in ff and coco mix i know they have some nute burn i have recently done a flush and run off ppm was 350 to 375 depending on plant. I did flush with higher than normal 6.9 water because my run off was low 6.1 after flush all plants run off was 6.6.
From my research i think it might be cal-mag deficiency but I’m no expert.
The other plant is starting to claw and all the edges are yellowing get close to harvest don’t want to lose them now any help would be greatly appreciated thank you
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@Watt-Sun Is this the same issue you are having? I just read your thread at it appears to be similar.
Dont try to fix that! Your dope is starting to die! The plant begins to enter senescence as its mission is near ended. If the dope was grown outdoors in soil, it would likely stay greener longer because you arent feeding it crack, its taking what it needs from the earth. Unless you are a super pro at growing dont expect your plant to look healthy appoaching the end of the road. Have a look at other peoples grows during the end game, do their plants look healthy and green? Not many.
You have to ask a few questions what is my input ph after I add all my nutrients together? What should my ppms be at my current stage of flowering and am I meeting or exceeding that? What stage are my flowers actually at? Check trichomes and pistols. If all the boxes are checked, ride it out till you intend to end feeding or flush, whatever you want to call it. The damaged leaves will not get better, so dont try. Just keep in mind that flowering is an end game process and after the middle point of it the plant begins to die as it would have normally been pollinated by now.
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Thank you very much that makes sense still learning i feel much better about it now. Thanks again much appreciated!!
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Glad I can help, your mileage may vary as others may have a different approach. I hope you are keeping a log so you can make adjustments in your next grow.
You dont really want to flush or make any large adjustments in the end game because it causes a degree of shock, not unlike pruning. It sets production back. One rule of thumb I like to use is less is usually better unless you have experience. Now you have a baseline of what works and what doesnt.
All good points and one other data set you should be taking is runoff TDS. This will tell you how the plant is absorbing the salts you are providing in your liquid nutes.
The nutrients currently sold are designed to produce the kind of deficiencies you are seeing. Once it starts it becomes a cascade of interlocking nutrient lockouts so you currently see; N deficiency and K deficiency. The K helps the plant regulate temps so if missing will make your plant susceptible to light burn and brittle leaves.
Personally I like to maintain as healthy a plant as I can until the end which is, frankly, not hard to do as it is really only asking for some N in the nutrient mix.
Here’s an example at day of harvest: indoor plant outside for pictures.
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Yes. I just tagged him in my thread.
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I agree, my outdoor looks fantastic right to the end, infact it staeys to take on shades of color but still looks overall pretty healthy right to harvest. However, it is still normal to see lower leaves die and fall off, fan leaves have the chlorophyll sucked out of them, just general old age sets in. My biggest point to get across is that the flowering phase cant really be interrupted without loss of bulk and may cause stunted buds. If I was showing minor issues like those I would try to fix with minimal adjustment because the flowers are obviously doing their thing still.
See pretty healthy looking right to the end!
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