Help! 3rd week of flower and she has chlorosis bad

Hey everyone! I’m in the 3rd week of flower and everything has been great up to this point. My Sour Diesel plants fan leaves are all turning yellow and not just the lower branches. I had added an additive bulk a day or so before the symptoms showed up. My research has led me to believe it may have been excess of phosphorus that led to a zinc lockout. I flushed the res multiple times and just added pH’d water but I can’t tell if my diagnosis is correct. Can anyone tell me if I’m correct and what else I can do to fix the issue or is it too late at this point. A lot of the leaves are yellowing now. :frowning: Running a DWC. Environmental conditions look good. Room stays around 75-80 during lights on with around 35% humidity. I check pH daily and make sure it stays within the 5.5-6.5 range.

  • Sour Diesel, seeds from ILGM
  • Method: Hydro
  • Vessels: net pots in 3 gal res
  • PH: looking through journal it’s been consistently 5.8-5-9
  • PPM/TDS been around 1000-1100 ppm but have note from 12/14 where ppm was up 1700. I changed res and brought back down into 1000-1110 range.
  • Indoor
  • Light: 2 1000 watt kingLED LEDs
  • Temps; currently 82 at canopy, Max temp recorded was 90 degrees on a random warm day, lo is 63
  • Humidity; 30%, high of 51% lo of 20%
  • Ventilation system; active intake/exhaust 190 cfm
  • AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier: no
  • Co2: No


3 Likes

Looks like a nute burn to me. Two things: can you give us a picture in natural light and fill out this support ticket? Just copy and paste into your post. Be as complete as possible including the meter used for PH, what TDS you’re running, what nutes, reservoir size, lights, space size etc.

COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.

Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so; Or post
NA (non applicable)

  • What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed
  • Method: Soil w/salt, Organic soil, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, KNF
  • Vessels: Pots, Grow beds, Buckets, Troths
  • PH of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable)
  • PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable
  • Indoor or Outdoor
  • Light system
  • Temps; Day, Night
  • Humidity; Day, Night
  • Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
  • AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
  • Co2; Yes, No

Always try to upload a clear picture of any issues you may have to allow the community to assist you.

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer should be included. Feel free to elaborate, but short and to the point questions and facts will help us help you in a more efficient manner :slight_smile:

Thanks!

The damaged leaves will not recover but getting back on track, your plants will likely recover. I would like to see a tighter control of PH so was wondering about res size.

1 Like

That’s the shitty thing about hydroponics once it go’s its hard to stop I would keep flushing it every time the roots dry with bottled water

Updated with all the info and pictures!

1 Like

Hello there @GreenthumbD
Welcome to ILGM and our awesome community.

Your close but it’s : Potassium

Here is a pic

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Potassium (K) Mobile Element and Macro Element

Potassium plays a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your
plants helps in having sturdy and thick stems, disease-resistance, water
respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Potassium is also found in the
whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation.
Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds.

Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show
retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may
stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency
confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference
in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis)
can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die
off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle)
and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow
and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage.
To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages.
Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting
to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon
get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen,
and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced.
SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are:
older leaves and leaf margins.

When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like
salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium
can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark
yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance,
potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg,
and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly
leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and
can cause problems with calcium as well.

Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles
Soils with excessive Leeching and High ph soils and or water.Soils that are
potassium fixated. An excess of kitchen salts (sodium) in the root system/enviroment.

Soil

Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having
a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5.
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for
hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute
to a potassium deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Potassium deficiency

Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a potassium
deficiency.
Again Peters All Purpose plant food 20-20-20, will cure the potassium deficiency ,
Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food.( Only mixing at
½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Some other
supplements of potassium are: Wood ashes, which are fast absorption, Kelp Meal, which
is medium absorption, Greensand, which is slow absorption, granite dust, which is slow
absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Sulfate of Potash Magnesia, Muriate of Potash, which are
medium absorption. FOXFARM GROW BIG HYDROPONIC CONCENTRATE, which is fast absorption.
(FFGB can bring your ph down as well) Earth Juice Meta-K, which is fast acting.
(Can bring down your ph as well) Leaves will never recover, but the plant will show
recovery after about 4 to 5 days when using a fast acting nutrient.

Note: Wood Ashes, can make your ph go up a bit, so please monitor your ph when using it.
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your
plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use
2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and
need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough
to get rid of excessive nutrients.

1 Like

Wow! Thanks for the in depth explanation. I have a lot to learn but I love it! So whats the best range to keep my pH? I’ve seen ranges from 5.5-6.5. I will definitely follow up on your insight!

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5.8 for hydro.

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I’m going to assume you are dwc or rdwc? Just out of curiosity, are you monitoring water temps? With ambient temps that high I’d be surprised if your water temps weren’t high. What do your roots look like?

4 Likes

@dbrn32 is exactly right… water temps are way to high and leading to ph problems and heat lockout … :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

3 Likes

I was thinking I would tag you on this lol. But figured I would try to get leg work out of the way first.

1 Like

I haven’t! In all honesty I hadn’t read anything that said that was something important to monitor. My roots are brownish :frowning: so looking like Pythium/root rot? For now I’m going to put frozen water bottles in the res to try and bring the temp down. Is there something I can add to to the res to combat the problem? Or is my baby girl done?

2 Likes

Hydrogen peroxide can help kill off the bad stuff and get your roots cleaned up. But I can’t remember the amount. @peachfuzz or @bryan can probably remember.

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I use hydroguard ,I haven’t had a problem since I started using it

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The others guys are much better with the hydro stuff. But hydroguard and peroxide seem pretty standard.

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Yikes… no good…
We can get you fixed up… don’t kill the plant…
Not yet… :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

2 Likes

Some pics of the roots and plants and fill out a support ticket asap… :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

You need me to make a new topic? Or just post here?

Here is fine. just tag some people when you do.