This must be light burn am I correct? And if so should I cut the leaves?
Definitely back your light off. Leaves curling. Whatâs your DLI/PPD? Picture of whole plant?
No need to cut the leaves.
Keep your environmental conditions in check Growmie, monitor input and run off PH as well. A little splash burn on the leaves from top feeding. 
Forgot to comment on the nute splash. Good catch @OGIncognito 
The compact nature and short internode spaces suggest too much light.
Adjust the lights till you get more upwards growth.
Although the photone light meter app is not a true ppfd quantum meter it will allow you to start finding more optimal light levels and distances for free.
Iâve added in the Google search I donât think I can link an actual site per the rules just click the top app depending on your phone.
With a healthy veg plant you should have a centimetre or two of upwards growth a day, Light is measured in photons hitting a surface we measure the ones between 400nm and 700nm on the electromagnetic scale. This encompasses red green and blue light, ultraviolet and infrared are at the limits and past the 400nm to 700nm range. The scale used is PPFD or Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density if you want to sound scientific and impress a woman down at the local dispensary. Merely means the number of photos that hit a surface, the energies of the photo vary by colour or length of wave, shorter wave 400nm have slightly more energy than 700nm and a mcree curve helps us further break that down into what the plant absorbs which the photone app does for you when you select the light type your using.
Hereâs a wiki link to PPFD and light in general as a horticulturalist
But it neednât be complicated you just need to read the plants and work out a ballpark ppfd figure to dial things in with.
Sad to say I donât know what is ddl or ppi would like to know appreciate it
Thanks again growmie!
The plants seem to have made a partial recovery.
Dli refers to Daily Light Integral which is the amount of light or PPFD hitting the plant per day.
It concerns what we call the photoperiod or in simple terms how long you have the lights on each day.
Itâs not complicated and most led sites like Mars Hydro should have a breakdown of these metrics we use to measure light.
Buuuuut I urge you to download the Photone App especially if you have a phone with a good camera like the latest iPhones or similar since you simply put it under the light at the tops of the plants and it will tell you your ppfd.
Then you can move the light based on what they like and the ppfd the app tells you it is. For germination Iâm at 100ppfd, veg 200 plus flower 400-600.
Each light will vary a little and each plant will start upwards growth when in the right ranges. Itâs certainly something I take into consideration when I donât see perfect growth and helped becoming better at growing.
Technically in soil thereâs very few variables, some airflow, the right amount of light and all thatâs left is to water and feed at the appropriate times. I wouldnât get too hung up on anything else and is a winning recipe for a long time with the best growers having these things down to a âTâ.
One other piece of standard advice is to move your humidity and temp sensor from under the light, that needs to be shaded at the very least. Any light indirect or direct will cause the probe to heat and that gives false readings which normally are higher temps and lower humidity.
Getting accurate temp and humidity readings will also help, sometimes people put their meters under the light and falsely read high temps and low humidity then buy un-needed fans and moisture machines.
Technically your inline along with the bottom open vents should be all you need to create enough airflow and the rate it pulls means heat cannot build since out lights cannot heat 100+ cubic feet of air a minute and no where near. This also means technically your tent should be just a little warmer than the room it sits in as by virtue of replacing the air in it three times a minute or whatever it is it should greatly align to the room out side. Placing a heater or moisture machine inside is about as effective as putting one in a room with all the windows open on a breezy day. Try heat and increase the humidity of the room the tent is in not the tent itself.
Should help explain and get better readings that way.
The physics of light heat and air are rather complex and interesting, much different to how the simple layman sees it and should become core principles in your grow and measuring devices.
Hope that helps too, worth a read online, wiki is your friend here. Look at light and heat as conduction, radiation and convection not just heat and light. Light actually does not warn the air directly and the chances of a photon of light hitting an air molecule are so small it dosent happen. This is why you shouldnât put your meters in the light because all that light energy is not what we want to read and will travel from the bulb to the meter and heat it past the air temperature.
I could go on forever on this stuff, itâs actually groundbreaking when you start to learn to grow. Ultimately itâs real simple, shade your meter or put it off to the side away from any light. Set the right PPFD, create the exact wind speed with your inline extractor.
So thankful & grateful for ur knowledge and advice. Thank you again for your time I really appreciate it !lack of knowledge definitely brings destruction! One love
