More like HistericalJane
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Youād better believe it! 
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Omg. Lmbo. Didnt even catch that. Maybe it is another type of karen. Was supposed to b kinda
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Mmmm. Cone in my room to do a dab and man it smells so dang good in hurr. Fruity skunky smell. Yummy.
And my wifewifes back lol. 3 kinds hangin. Zkits. W.w. and a cream cbd
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Lovin that she stood there and covered the pics up for youā¦ real love 
Nice selection you got there! Iāll need all the help I can get when it comes to harvest time!
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Just find a cool place. Do u live in a house where u have a free closet. That would work great. I do it there because my lights r on for a few minutes here or there in my bedroom. I sleep there is all i need to do lol. Plus i love the smell best air fresheners and anyone who comes here smokes or knows im growing so its all good here. Anyway. A dark place like a closet it perfect close door and keep a fan on low in the bottom on floor facing a wall. As low as possible on fan speed so it dont dry too fast. Check periodically to make sure not getting too humid if so open door and put fresh air in there for a few kinda like burping jars for curing. Leave them all hang til u can bend a branch and hear it crack when it cracks she is good to be cut off the branches each bud and put in jars to cure. Dont pack jars tight and put hygro meters in each jar and rh 2 way packs of ur likings. Sorry i rambke alot when i finally sit down and get baked out my mind. I plucked a branch off each w.w. and a zkit branch and let them dry for the week finally went and pressed them buds and im rather happy and it didnt cure yet just dry and everything went a week longer too hopefully not a bad thing lol.
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Got a little off track. What was your question. Oh yeah, feeding a 16 old seedling. If you are using a high nutrient soil like fox farm ocean forest, no. maybe in 3-4 more weeks. Something like FF Happy Frog then in 2 weeks. So the question is what are you growing in.
The overhead shot tells me you will be ready to up pot before too much longer.
It looks good, has good color. It isnāt telling me she is hungry.
I think the majority of issues with young plants comes from over watering and over feeding.
WWA can get fairly tall. Are you going to use LST, top or FIM?
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Ahhhhhh, thatās reads making more sense now. I almost Googled it āLinda crazyā. I was thinking listen here Linda
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Iām going to do a little lst as it will be my first time doing so, Iāve read up on a few articles about different ways to do it. Iām growing in ffof and I have ff trio but this is my question when it comes to transplanting if Iām using ffof and I do a transplant into a 5Gal when will it be necessary I use nutes if Iām pretty much starting over with fresh soil that contains nutes
Fresh soil fresh start. But as she grows and gets stronger she will be able to take some nutrients. Big bloom is not a big hitter so you can certainly use it after she settles in after transplant. I grew in FF OF and used the trio for a year. You will more than likely need calcium magnesium supplement. I would use it on water only days. Grow Big seems to be pretty potent so start off at reduced rates.
I looked at my notes. I harvested two WWA on day 100 one was 43" and the other 54". It was my first grow I tied down some of the side branches but did not top them. If I ever grow them again, I will absolutely top them.
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Yea Iām going to wait until my next grow to top Iāve read several post and articles on topping as well and I still donāt get it lolā¦ but I do have cal mag plus for those days that I would need it how does one tell when sheās ready for nutes what should I look for in the upcoming weeks
I primarily tell by the leaves when they are ready for nutrients. Basically think of the larger leaves in the overhead photo. Nice rich green color. That is the color you are looking for. Almost shiny but not quite. Truthfully, it is almost easier to tell when they are getting to much. Signs of this is the very tip of the leaf will turn yellow then brown. Time to back off nutrients. The next stage is a very bright shiny green leaf. This is usually a sign of nitrogen toxicity.
A good measure of what is going on at the soil level is to monitor and record your ph and ppm for both feeds and runoff. As you record these values and compare them over time a pattern will often be revealed. As an example, if you use no nutrients for a couple of weeks after transplant, the ppm numbers should decrease. This tells you the plant is consuming the nutrients in the soil.
When I first started I did not take ph or ppm measurements. Highly recommend starting off the right way and start from the beginning.
What to expect over the next couple of weeks? Growth. Once the roots are established and water / soil nutrient uptake is in high gear they will put on significant growth.
If you want to top this plant I can help walk you through it. I would need a clear side view of the plant clearly showing the number of leaf nodes and the top growth tip. Take a look at First topping to harvest in pictures
It shows topping a plant and a very straight forward LST pattern.
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I numbered each of the nodes for reference.
You can top it above the 3rd node where indicated with the red line. If you cut within the stem it is topped. If you move up into the new growth this is a FIM. My preference is to top. Leave as much of the stem above the V created by the leaf stems as you can. This will allow it to heal and form a strong knuckle which you will want when you bend the two new growth tips. The two new growth tips are now the plants āapicalā stems.
Note that the growth points of nodes 1 and 3 are directly above each other. I mention this so you are aware of this if you LST.
You can top it now then allow it to recover for a couple of days then up pot. Once in the new pot you can start LST if you choose to.
If this was a photoperiod plant I would let it grow another couple of nodes before topping. But, because this is an auto, you are safer to get after it sooner rather than later. You never now when it will start to flower. Usually around 28 - 35 days.
The more even you keep the growth tips, the better the buds will be. They each get the most light if the plantās canopy is level. I have yet to accomplish this but it is the goal to achieve even light distribution.
I numbered each of the nodes for reference.
You can top it above the 3rd node where indicated with the red line. If you cut within the stem it is topped. If you move up into the new growth this is a FIM. My preference is to top. Leave as much of the stem above the V created by the leaf stems as you can. This will allow it to heal and form a strong knuckle which you will want when you bend the two new growth tips. The two new growth tips are now the plants āapicalā stems.
Note that the growth points of nodes 1 and 3 are directly above each other. I mention this so you are aware of this if you LST.
You can top it now then allow it to recover for a couple of days then up pot. Once in the new pot you can start LST if you choose to.
If this was a photoperiod plant I would let it grow another couple of nodes before topping. But, because this is an auto, you are safer to get after it sooner rather than later. You never now when it will start to flower. Usually around 28 - 35 days.
The more even you keep the growth tips, the better the buds will be. They each get the most light if the plantās canopy is level. I have yet to accomplish this but it is the goal to achieve even light distribution.
Are you growing in a tent? What size? What do you have for light?
Glad to try to describe this better if what I have said is confusing, Good luck
My current grow journal is An auto, three photos and a clone
I have a jack herer auto going with a totally different type of LST.
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Your awesome mann!! I understood everything you explained, when do I start lst after topping? New growth? Also Iām growing in a 4x4 Mars hydro Ts1000 and 2 Ts600 actual wattage 350 until I upgrade again on the lights
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@beardless How lovely are you! To take the time to draw this up from his own photo! 
Need you on my side, man!
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Give it a couple of days. The new growth tips will grow out during that period. Then transplant e the 5 gallon. Give a day or two then LST. Probably just the bottom branches. Flatten them out and hold them down. I like to use bent wire. 12 gauge solid core insulated wire is used a lot too. Using wire lets you start a little earlier. Other wise you kind of have to wait for the branch to reach the side of the pot. Again, know where you are going with the new top stems. When they get an inch or so you can gently bend them in the direction you eventually want them to go. When they are a little bigger you can then tie them off. This early bending just softens them up a little.
The cut looks perfect.
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Doing that is pretty easy. Thanks to photo and 3D Paint. That is about the extent of my use of paint though. If I can help, give a shout.
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Looks good to me also buddy! Iād probably say it this stage donāt water so much, once a week maybe and donāt feed any nutes during veg, I seem to get nothing but problems but with autos with that, as compost already has active nutrients in it (should) and autos only veg for a few weeks on average it shouldnāt need anything, this is my cherry bomb auto I didnāt feed any veg nutes just bio bizz flower nutes when she started early flower
Also id say transplant if you want her to get a little bigger, but believe autos donāt really like the stress from transplanting, the pics I just showed you she is only in a 1.7 gal pot I believe, just she needs watering more often now sheās in full flower, she drinks more and is root bound I believe, so I have to keep on top of it lol
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