Deficiencies need help to identify

Hi guys can anyone help me out with these problem plants… i cant work out if its potassium or phosphorus or iron…one plant is in flower and the other 2 are young clones…

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Looks like potassium deficiency or lockout in the first two pics. What are your soil specs? Ph, ppm

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How much calmag are you using for every gallon of water? That could be your problem if you’re growing in coco. If you are growing in coco I recommend to use 3ml of calmag for every gallon of water in veg stage, and in flower I use 5ml per gallon.

The first 2 are 3-4 week old clones and the run off ppm was 249ppm and ph was 6.97… i got the first 40ml of run off from straight water…
What about the one in flower?

Im using 1ml per liter so that would be somthing like 3.8 to the gallon the last couple feeds i haven’t put any cal mag in… i made up 1ml to 1 liter and have been spraying them down 2 times a week… to much you reckon?

Agree with @Serginho2535 on the flowering plant. Looks like it’s wanting some calmag. That 6.9 runoff is high for soil and out of range for soilless. What medium are you using?

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If you are growing in coco you want your ph in veg stage at 5.8 to 6.0. On flower you can go up to 6.5 but no below 6.2. Calmag is a most in coco, everytime you feed or water your plants.

Today pics

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Ok cool, thanks @Serginho2535 @BobbyDigital ill adjust and see how they go over the next couple weeks! Awesome setup there @Serginho2535 nice healthy looking plants

Sorry @BobbyDigital im using coco

From what I see in the first two pic’s is this …this is my two pic’s below the pic’s is the fix …

1134potassiumdef2

Potassium%232
Potassium (K) Mobile Element and Macro Element

Potassium plays a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your
plants helps in having sturdy and thick stems, disease-resistance, water
respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Potassium is also found in the
whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation.
Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds.

Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show
retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may
stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency
confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference
in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis)
can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die
off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle)
and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow
and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage.
To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages.
Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting
to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon
get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen,
and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced.
SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are:
older leaves and leaf margins.

When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like
salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium
can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark
yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance,
potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg,
and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly
leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and
can cause problems with calcium as well.

Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles
Soils with excessive Leeching and High ph soils and or water.Soils that are
potassium fixated. An excess of kitchen salts (sodium) in the root system/enviroment.

Soil

Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having
a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5.
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for
hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute
to a potassium deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Potassium deficiency

Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a potassium
deficiency.
Again Peters All Purpose plant food 20-20-20, will cure the potassium deficiency ,
Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food.( Only mixing at
½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Some other
supplements of potassium are: Wood ashes, which are fast absorption, Kelp Meal, which
is medium absorption, Greensand, which is slow absorption, granite dust, which is slow
absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Sulfate of Potash Magnesia, Muriate of Potash, which are
medium absorption. FOXFARM GROW BIG HYDROPONIC CONCENTRATE, which is fast absorption.
(FFGB can bring your ph down as well) Earth Juice Meta-K, which is fast acting.
(Can bring down your ph as well) Leaves will never recover, but the plant will show
recovery after about 4 to 5 days when using a fast acting nutrient.

Note: Wood Ashes, can make your ph go up a bit, so please monitor your ph when using it.
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your
plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use
2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and
need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough
to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Thank you @Uncle-edd I do my best to keep my girls happy, you’re doing good too!

Thanks @Serginho2535 ill take q few pictures of my tents in the morning… its my first time in coco and ive been struggling to dial it in with evaporation leaving the ppm higher then initial feeding ppm…
Do you guys do anything to prepare your coco, i have been soaking it in a 150 does cal-mag for 12hours or so then useing it… i seen it on youtube…
Thanks for the info @garrigan62 ill screen shot that so i can go back to it when needed

With coco you have to water or feed every day till it run at least 20% of your water that way you keep fresh nutrients inside the pot.

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I use the entire line of mills nutrients, coco and soil too, and with this you dont need to do anything, but after 1 or 2 weeks you have to start adding calmag when you feed.

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Cheers guys, i just gave them all a good flushing and a 600ppm feed qnd there all powering on with no signs of deficiencies

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@Serginho2535 here is my room

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