Deficiencies in organic grow

Hello, it’s been a while since ive been on. Im hoping to get some input from the pros on my current grow situation. I decided to attempt my first organic grow. I built my own soil from organic amendments with a worm casting/coco coir base. My strains being mack dragon, and adrenaline dragon. Grow space a 4x2 gorilla grow tent. I water every 3 days with ph 6.5 water with 3 ml per gallon cal-mag. Humidy in tent around 40. Temp 75. 6 inch infinity fan. These plants sprouted green and healthy for the first couple weeks. Then i made the rookie mistake of over watering. Thats when the yellowing and burnt ends started to appear. Checking my ppm at the time came far too high and my soil ph turned out to be too high as well at about 7.0. I decided at that point to flush, and run 6.0 ph water through till soil ph returned to 6.5. At that time my ppms went down to around 600. I fed 15 ml alaskan fish fertalizer and amended a layer of fresh gaia green. That was about a month ago. Still these deficiencies persist. Sadly starting to get frustrated i decided to abort the organic idea and fed 2 tble spoons grow big and 4ml b-52 per gallon synthetic nutrients. Just trying to get some sort of nutrient in tbe soilbas they look hungry i assume with the yellowing. That was a few days ago and still no change. Im wondering if the next step is another flush? These plants sprouted in late August. Really starting to wonder if i messed up the soil too much to repair and if im wastimg my time on this grow at this point. Any input on my situation would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!




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Not organic

Waay too low. Causing VPD issues. The capillary action being disrupted causing yellowing.

Can’t measure ppm with any accuracy. Meter will read the cautions in the soil. It’s reading available and unavailable. That’s why something like FFOF will show 3-4K ppm.

That’s all gone. You eat more often, so do your plants.

The damage is done and won’t change the look of the old growth. Look to new growth.

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Your ph with only coco should be around 5.8 … need to check your ph and ppm runoff so we can get a better idea of where to go from here. Organics is more than just coco and worm castings. When building soil theres alot more that goes into it than just coco and worm castings. Lets get you theough this grow though… do you have a tds and ph meter? Lets see a picture of the whole plant.

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Yes. The worm casting and coco are just my base. Here is my recipe.





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Here is the rest of my recipe. Coco and worm casting was just my base… i do have a tds meter. Last i checked a week ago i was at 900 on the one. 1100 on the other. Ph 6.3.




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Over all, they look healthy. Could use a bit of Epson salts (Mg)

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My main concern is the burning tips of tbe new growth. Pretty much been going on throughout this grow. Usuall tbat would indicate nutrient burn. I feel this cant be the case being such a low ppm? And since ive already made this a non organic grow by adding snythetics should i proceed with the nutrient line?

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Did you allow this mix to cook before you planted?

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Overall they look great. I would just ride the wagon for a week or two. Lets see how they do. Soil couldve been a lil hot to begin with esp if it wasnt allowed to cook for a while.

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I did actually. I made the mix a good month prior. I figured the soil ph was tbe culprit. Should have been corrected by now though i would think.

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Thank you for the input. Itching to flip. Need them to be 100 percent!

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I was gonna ask how long you cooked it, but you’re good there. Sometimes it’s more like 1.5-2 depending on the inputs.

So concerned with the PPM (meaningless in this case) unless you wanna continue using slats. More than likely, it will be the pH. Did you check it yet? You still have to adjust pots before planting. They don’t self correct and always have to be buffered with limestone (up) or more oyster flour (neutral). As the pots age, you’ll have to replace your buffer. Microbes aren’t miracle workers, and they need help from time to time.

You don’t have to. Meh, so what you cheated a bit; not in flowering. Those chemical will burn off.

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Get your humidity in check and resolve the VPD issue.

Oops I missed this. Sorry. Is that runoff readings or soil slurry taken at roots?

That’s a bit low. Needs to be watered with a bit higher pH water or buffered with oyster flower top dress and reassessed in a week.

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Also add a couple of tablespoons of dolomite. That will help buffer ph and add calcium and magnesium…

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That yellowing isn’t gonna stop till the VPD is addressed. Agreed? @dbrn32 @ChittyChittyBangin


Very stressful conditions and capillary action is so far off it can’t drink or breathe right.

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If youre in veg , you want to try to keep your humidity around 60 and bump your temps up closer to 80. The temp of soil also affects nutrient uptake.

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Very possible. Vpd far enough out of range can make plants look like the heaviest of feeders.

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Yeah i agree. My humidity is way off. I have a vivosun humidifier inside the tent. I set it to 80 and still i can only get it up to 40%. Im going through a gallon every other day. Maybe too many fans? I have two oscillating fans. One on the bottom of the tent one on the canopy. One fan to cool my light. And of course the exhaust fan. Maybe if i lose one or more i can get my humidity up. I live in Az. My house is literally 20% humidity…

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That is my soil ph. I tried to get it down from 7 so i watered with 6.0 until i could get it to drop. Ive watered 6.5 the last few to try to get it to work back up.

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Get a second humidifier or one that is more able to keep up with humidity. Please reference the VPD chart Budbrother posted above. It’s either lower your temps or increase your humidity to get your VPD around 1.2 during veg.
As you go into flower that VPD will need to go up as flowering progresses to 1.4 or so.
As far as running organic soil the PPM and PH and all that becomes mostly a moot point if your soil is biologically happy with balanced amendments. I’ve built several humidifiers using house of hydro parts and they work great along with an inkbird humidifier controller.
Info on these are in my grow journal worm poo…
As far as inside tent temps and humidity sometimes simply changing what doors are open or closed and adjusting your inline fan extraction can help.

Hope this helps

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