Curious if anyone has experience with the air cube system from grow ace

I’m trying to find a system that will help make watering and run off a lot easier. At the moment I am using top water with a pump and hose and collecting runoff with a shop vac.

I’m interested in the air cube system but don’t want to drop that kind of money on crap. Any thoughts or a better system feel free to jump in.

@Graysin @Underthestairs @OGIncognito @Pinboy @CoyoteCody @Hellraiser @Not2SureYet @dbrn32 @Nicky
I know I missed several of the OG’s I used to see on here but it’s been a while.

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Not familiar with the air cube system but I run Autopots and they’re about as easy as you can get

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Same here. Autopots are the closest thing to a hydro system without needing to drop the $500 on a chiller.

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@Pinboy @Graysin i have the autopot system but I tend to get extremely high ppms and have to flush which tends to be a pain in those bases with the water leaking from the little slit where the hose goes.

I am getting ready to switch from 2 4x4 tents to about a 20x12 room specifically designed for growing. I plan to have a small shower base where I can flush plants if needed. This will be drained out the building into probably a raised garden of some sort.

I’m thinking I will have the entire room flowering with a starter or clone tent. I want different kinds so thinking start 2 wait a month start a new strain wait a month and continue. Each time when the 2 oldest get ready to flower I’ll move them out to the flowering area, this will keep a new strain coming off almost every month once I get in the rotation. If I find a few I like a lot they will be grown more.

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I don’t know this system you speak of but I have encouraged everyone to get onto autopots since the day I learned about them.

Every system has challenges but autopots are fairly simple, so simple the failures are much easier to diagnose.
So I would say let’s dig into your autopots issue save you a bunch of money and time wasted, instead get the autopots running smoothly.

Your getting high ppm’s you said. So my questions would be.

#1 what grow medium are you using
#2 what nutrient line are you using
#3 where, when, how and for what reason are you checking ppm’s.

Growing cannabis is extremely more difficult to do efficiently and consistently in soil when growing indoors, it becomes labour intensive to do it correctly and better done on a large scale like commercial grow ops although few do.

For this reason i steer people toward a medium that does not contain nutrients, my personal favourite for many reasons is coco (rockwool is nice but I THINK it’s worse for the environment (peat is much worse)

Once an autopots grower has their medium decided that is inert then the process should be as follows.
Choose nutrient line (Jack’s is preferred here because its cheap, easy, professional grade and tons of info on it all around the web)
Following the nutrient directions of other cannabis growers and avoiding manufacturers directions is generally preferred here but it’s good to keep both in mind.
Toss a water pump or wave maker in your 30 gallon reservoir let’s say and put it on a 30min timer every hour or two.
Fill the reservoir with water, ensuring your water is of decent quality here, use a charcoal filter if it’s chlorinated tap water but always check your public water test records so you know what exactly is in your tap water as other sterilization chemicals can cause great harm to your plants and won’t be filtered from a carbon filter.

Then mix in the silica addative you have chosen to go with, let it mix very well and then PH your mix to something rough (just don’t want it above let’s say 7). Don’t drop it to low though because nutrients will also drop the PH (most) once the nutrients have been mixed in the correct order with a couple minutes in between adding each step to ensure proper mixing then we PH down to our desired PH 5.8 for example.
Then add your fish shit or tribus here (not recharge!)

Walk away and come back in an hour or two, but this whole time the reservoir valve is turned OFF. Double check the PH it often changes after full mixing.

Once you have confirmed 5.8 then open the tap.
No need to check the reservoir for a couple days once or twice week seems to be okay for my 30 gallon reservoir running 4-6 plants.

The time that PH will drift and TDS will bud is as it gets to the last 25% of the reservoir, so I try to keep it above this level.
I personally pre mix a concentrate in a 5 gallon bucket and then add 15 gallons of fresh water to the reservoir, then I PH that water roughly again to about 7 (don’t want it to high or bonds will happen within the nutrients and nutrient dropout happens).
I then add my 5 gallons of concentrate nutrient mix and top up the reservoir until the ppm is correct then I do a PH, come back in 2hr or before I go to bed and ensure PH is correct.

I also run two 25 or 30 gallon reservoirs, yours don’t have to be this big but I think everyone’s reservoir should last them a week in peak flow growing at high temps in order to ensure there is less fluctuations day to day with your system.
I will clean my reservoirs once every couple of fills when I notice the build up in the bottom /sides getting excessive as these salts will mess with the PPM/PH of the mix.
Its also really nice to fill both when I have more time, or only have to turn one valve off, check PH on new reservoir and then open valve, when in busy with life.

Cleaning your lines every single grow is very very important, it’s also important to bleed the lines out once and a while. I don’t do this and it’s bit me a couple times but I will bleed them once a month when I fire up again.

So I hope this has made you double think a couple things your doing and can initiate some conversation so we can fix your issue, because it’s not the system it’s the way the system is being run. Not just with you but with any of us having issues.

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Check out the Flora Flex system my brother uses it for a 6" rockwool cube and says it works great. It’s an automated top watering system.

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My issue seems to be mid to late flower. I use coco in fabric pots and jacks 321. I have noticed a couple things that I find odd. Even with top watering I am finding that I check the ppm going in and it seems low at 750-850. But coming out will be anywhere from 1400-3000. Water before mixing is around 120 ppm I think. I mix jacks at 3.6,2.4 and 1.2. In the order of 3,1,2. I use tribus during veg, and usually don’t continue after switching to flower. Once I saw signs of flowering approximately 2 weeks after switching light cycle, I switched to 4-2-1 jacks. Mid to late flower I start seeing signs of tacoeing and either one or all of phosphorus , P, K deficiencies. This past grow I added a MPK but I think it was a little late as it was around last month of flower. When I added the mpk I switched to 2-2-2 jacks and 1.5 of mpk.

I use a wave maker and usually mix 10-20 gallons at a time. I have mixed 1 gallon to make sure I’m not crazy with the low ppms and it still reads low. Bought a new tds meter to make sure the other one wasn’t old and messed up. I always ph to 5.8-6.0.

I’m willing to say the Issue May not be the autopots. Just felt like I had more control watering from top and checking runoff in flower.

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This sounds like maybe not watering to enough runoff.

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I wasn’t watering to enough runoff until flower. Me being lazy and trying to get by on 10 gallons. After I began flushing 16-20 gallons with jacks each watering to get the ppm down. Even after getting them down to 1100-1200ppm runoff, the next watering they would be up 1600-1800 each day. Took me weeks of watering like that to keep them from jumping that high.

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Wow I’m way confused - are you using autopots and top-watering, or are you not using your autopots anymore? I’m late to the conversation so my apologies if you already explained this bit. It’s been a very long couple of days.

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No worrries! Used one or 2 grows. Last 2 grows have been top watering.

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Gotcha.

I’m with @Nicky then - it’s considerably easier to troubleshoot the autopot than to invest in something new. My first thought is you need new tophat grommets - that was the thing that kept getting in my way and causing leaks. Over time the rubber deteriorated, and I needed to replace them to avoid leaks.

The second thing is, don’t be me. Don’t not thoroughly clean the full autopot, valve, float and tray, between grows. I caused flooding on more than one occasion by simply not cleaning when I knew I should.

The final thing is there’s little compressed air things for cleaning out drains - if you’re lazy (me), this is an invaluable tool in removing buildup from your system and preventing eventual leaks.

If you had to swap to another auto-water, I’d go for a hydroponic build. It eliminates guesswork and can be fully automated.

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How long between feedings in the coco and what size pots? Cation exchange capacity of coco it needs to be rinsed, buffered, and then not allowed to dry out. Otherwise it will release excessive potassium and/or bind calcium and magnesium.

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I let them dry out pretty good. Usually
Do a good watering in 5 gallon pots with coco. Usually wait until they feel light to pick up and water. Occasionally I might decide most don’t need watering but one does and I wait until the next day. Usually a 3-5 day cycle depending on time of grow.

I usually use full strength jacks to prep my coco. Doesn’t typically dry out at least not to the point the plant shows any physical signs of drought.

Some pics from this last grow. Top fed, watered like hell in flower with lots of runoff to attempt to keep ppms down.





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I have an air compressor near by, and can probably purchase new line for cheap if it is too much of a headache to clean. But that’s a neat idea to clear the hoses.

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I’m extremely lazy when it comes to cleaning things like those hoses. Wife stays on me about that around the house :man_facepalming:

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Yeah, don’t ask how long it’s been since I cleaned my system. I couldn’t actually tell you :man_facepalming:

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Good question. I’ve been seeing a few people lately going a few days between waterings in coco. It seems that’s what OP is doing. Letting coco dry out causes a lot of issues and you lose the benefits of growing in coco vs soil. Watering/feeding once a day is the minimum for coco. I started feeding to runoff on day 4 of my current grow to keep the coco saturated. If I had a lot of free time or an automated system I’d water 4x daily.

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