For all those out there who are interested or have chosen to grow in coco and have yet to learn the intricacies of it:
I have a long history and deep understanding of coco and would be happy to impart and enlighten those who have questions, concerns, facts, discussions, etc.
Coco is so often used improperly. It is truly an incredible medium that stands in its own category, and thus requires specific attention and actions.
If other threads have not been able to answer your coco-related inquiries, this one will.
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I just started usuing coco. A quick rundown of the basics would be nice. Dwitched from soil this wil be my first run using jacks 321 and using continuum as microbes
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Easy peasy my friend.
3.8g of part A per gallon of water
2.5g of part B per gallon of water and that’s it my friend. Feed your microbes once a week. Feed jacks nutrients every time you water.
Water/feed when pot is light to the lift 2-3 days depending on pot size and stage of growth.
@Dieselgrow1031
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I am running in four 3.9 gallon plastic AutoPots with the Airdomes in a 5x5, and with 50% coco with 50% giant perlite. This system gives off a lot of humidity, and causes me to run a dehumidifier during the winter months. I have reduced the AirDomes run time to 30 minutes on 30 minutes off during the day cycle only, and this helped some. I am sure that if it summertime I would need to run my large dehumidifier constantly.
Would smaller perlite help with the amount of humidity being released? Or is there something that I top the coco with that would slow down the humidity released? I think my local supply house recommended topping with rice shells, has anyone tried this?
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I thought you can’t let coco go dry ever?
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Hello! I’m using cultivation nation coco/perlite by FF… and using FF big bloom tiger bloom and big bug, and cal mag…. Do I let the medium dry out between watering or should I be watering every day? And is this chart ok to go off of for nutes?
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You can’t let coco dry out it will raise the EC of the medium and burn things up coco should always be moist/wet if it starts looking dry on top it need nutrients it should get nutrients every watering PhD to 5.8 for veg 6.2 for flower 4g part a/ 2g part b of jacks is a very good mix
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Big question but lets start with this:
Coco is not soil and will not yield well when treated as such.
Coco has an incredibly high cation exchange potential;
which means that it has an affinity for certain molecules; Calcium being the main concern.
Coco will ionize calcium making it non-bioavailable, so the use or a CaMg supplement is necessary.
To help with this:
-Use a pre-buffered coco product with no amendments, neutrality is key.
-Test runoff for PPM before use, even with a pre-buffered product. Buffer further if necessary.
-Potassium levels are higher due to this; take this into account when feeding and keep your eyes open for signs of potassium toxicity especially in flower when flower boosters are being used.
-Young plants can be challenging to establish into coco.
The potential hydrogen [pH] levels of coco are more similar to that of hydro as a slightly lower pH than soil is ideal [5.8-6.2].
When it comes to feeding in coco, it is best to hold a steady nutrient availability.
This is achieved by consistent feed schedules at a lower PPM with a consistent run-off, similar to the way rockwool is fertigated. A 30% runoff is ideal. A stable readout of 500-800PPM in-out [measure your solution vs runoff] every watering will provide stability.
Eg.con.: Soil fluctuates because it holds salts well and is fed in cycles of water-feed-water-feed, causing fluctuation. Think of a waveform graph for visual reference, we want as close to a flatline as possible.
Jacks is a fine nutrient but keep solubility and buildup close in mind.
Microbes are great always.
Coco benefits heavily with the use of a powdered mycorrhizal product during transplant.
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So when starting from seed should it start them in a rockwool or something or can i start them directly in a solo cup full of coco like i did with my soil grows. Thank you for the info as well ive been addding some cal mag in with the jacks just a bit
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I start in EazyPlugs, which are primarily coco.
Rw 1.5 cubes are fine too if pH balanced properly, I have found on occasion rw → coco can damp off, but this could be situational.
Solos are alright as long as the coco is buffered to a very low PPM [200-300].
Feed [aka. water] when only the surface is dry, a disturbance of 2-3cm on the surface should show wet coco beneath. As @JJ520 stated: when coco dries out the salts saturate to the roots causing burn or even lockout.
The feed schedule you have specifically states “Soil”.
Adjust down to a coco friendly level that conforms with the ideals of feeding in coco,
ie. Equal and lower PPM in/out at every watering, 30% runoff.
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Hydro systems generally precipitate more, and the more porous your medium the more it will precipitate. Think of it as more air channels for the water vapor to escape.
Anything more than 30% perlite in coco will cause excessive runoff and excessive precipitation, creating unnecessary humidity levels.
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@Noobygrower maybe this can help you? Great info.
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Repost for key takeaways:
Growing in coco is truly a wonderful process. I will never grow in soil again unless its outside. One thing i wanna say, I buffer and hydrate my coco with a 2.15 ec or a 1075 ppm @500 scale with no ill effects. And feed at that strength in solocups. Explosive growth.
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What is your take on ppm stacking?
When this occurs should EC be lowered? Waterings more frequently?
Watering be spaced further apart?
I have read so many conflicting articles.
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Last year I began wxperimenting with starting seeds in coco coir pellets. Previously I had only used jiffy pellets which are made of peat moss. This year I am doing half of my plants in coco pellets and half in peat pellets so I can compare.
Overall the seedlings in coco pellets are doing better than the ones in peat. My onion seedlings are doing good with both. But my thyme and oregano seedlings are doing MUCH better in coco pellets. Thyme and oregano seedlings are EXTREMELY delicate at first (far more delicate than cannabis) and grow extremely slow. The peat moss tends to shift around a little bit during handling which stresses out the plant by disrupting the roots. Coco pellets stay more firm and solid. Overall I find the coco better for seedlings.
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You are right.
Cannabis is a very versatile plant and can usually handle higher than average feeding.
Coco could potentially safely run 1000-2000 PPM if carefully monitored with the right strain, co2 enrichment, and powerful lighting.
The reason I suggest 500-800 PPM is that it covers most strains, minimized the chance of a full lockout in the event of an excessive dry-back, and keeps the use of food to a cost effective level.
As coco requires constant feeding feeding costs can run high if standard soil feed schedule dosages are given at every watering, not a big factor in a tent space but when managing micro gardens or more it becomes significant.
EG. If dropping from 1000ppm to 800ppm if allowable with all factors considered, a single feeding of of $500 becomes $400; equating to $500-700 weekly savings on food alone.
With the condition of the industry as it stabilizes from the most recent crash, scrimping dimes is becoming a governing factor in cultivation.
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PPM stacking should never occur if the required amount of runoff is strictly observed and PPM input and output is consistently monitored and compared.
If it should happen in coco; run a larger volume of nutrient solution at a slightly lower PPM to raise the percentage of runoff.
Or in severe cases; water with a large volume of only a Ca Mg product solution.
Never feed coco plain water.
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With the cost of jacks. Its pennies per gallon so i dont worry. Especially with 25lb bags. Im to afraid to get a calcium deficiency by lowering it. I could see actual 321 at 80% working. But again for the cost, im feeding 2.1 ec minimum start to final/only flush. I could never imagine using expensive nutes in coco.
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