Cheese quake, blueberry hashplant and critical kush


3 fine lady’s here, critical kush, blueberry hashplant and cheese quake…
31 days into flower…
I’m starting to get concerned that they aren’t really filling out too well… the buds I mean… I feel like by now they are pretty swollen… any thoughts on what may be going on?
Other than that I think they are looking good…
I’ve been flip flopping in my mind if I want to grow soil or hydro and I’m pretty sure I want to stay soil and start to make my own live soils. Started listening to a spsitify podcasts at work to learn as much as possible… anyone have any favorite podcasts about growing I could check out??

More updates soon! Thanks y’all!

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I am just getting over the “why aren’t my buds fattening” phase myself. They are fattening up finally. I’m not sure if it’s the strain or if because I am doing a scrog or if it my first indoor photo plant, but it seemed to take longer this time around.

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Thanks for the response! What day flier are you on??

It’s been 40 days since I flipped to 12/12. It’s Maui Wowie, which is supposed to be 9 weeks of flowering, but I think they are going to need more than 23 days. I wonder if a 1-2 week transitional phase is required as the plant adapts to the 12/12 and actually moves from a vegetative to flowering stage. I don’t know, it’s my first photo. I expect to harvest now last week of Jan, about 11 weeks from 12/12

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It takes a bit of time for the transition to occur. During this 1.5-3 wk period, many noobs are still counting it as flowering, but this isn’t so, and can throw people off when counting weeks of flowering.

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With my GLs I am in that 1.5 to 3 week period now. I’ve decided to continue to use ILGM grow nutrients until end of next week then move to flowering nutes. @Budbrother

I start the flowering nutes about a week before the flip. They will need the extra boost of P & K for the change that’s about to occur. When you stat to see what I call “dandelion looking tops” form; then you have reached week 1 of flowering.

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@greencoat this is it. The concept is when to detect that you plants are officially in flower after flipping to 12/12. Once dandelioning is present, you start the clock on the flowering period. I did not build in this transitional phase in my MW grow. I need to adjust future schedules.

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Nice I’ve added👍

Update…
Finally got the humidity under control in the tent… wish I could turn the alarm off on the switch but beggars can’t be choosers…
I got these clones from a previous caregiver… I was always excited to get his critical kush… so I figure I’d run it myself with a cutting from him… I actually got a few strains from him and the critical is the least impressive to look at lol…


I’m sure they will look great in the end but my impatience is getting the better of me. Probably because the blueberry hashplant is already well on its way to getting frosted up…

When I rotate the plants under the lights the cheese quake always smells the best… never had this strain before and I’m def excited… I’m gonna do a 2-3 month cure on all 3 plants here…

The humidity controller says simple and plug and play… but I’m having a hard time understanding the instructions does anyone have any experience with an inkbird ihc-200 humidity switch??

Until next time… thanks for checking in…

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Not sure about your equipment… but if those red lights on that unit stay on all the time , could cause a hermi problem… :wink:

:v::sunglasses:

What seems to be the trouble with the Inkbird controller?

Also, Peach is right on that account. It has a lead toat goes inside of the tent and the controller hangs outside for you to see.

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I was going to bring the controller back in the tent I was only trying to muffle the noise of the alarm that I cannot shut off

So should I turn off the red spectrum of my light then? Or only have it on a certain amount of time? Also the red I think u see is from my phlizon and just produced a decent batch no hermie…

No , not your lighting … I was talking about that controller that’s right above your lights , second picture above my post…
It looks like it has a red led display which will cause problems if it stays on all the time…
:v::sunglasses:

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You have to set the low, high and max alert values on it, so that alarm stops. Assuming that you have an appropriate sized humidifier/de humidifier plugged in for it to controll. You will need to fine tune the max values. I make them alarm worthy, so it only goes when shit get like 65% (flower) & 99% (veg) in there.

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Update…
Little bit of stress but they will be fine… I’m hoping these ladies will bulk up quite a bit still…couldn’t find a way to turn the alarm sound off on the inkbird monitor… so it’s still running but muffled in a box with towels for the time being. I just need it to function as an auto switch I don’t need an alarm…
hope everyone had a merry Xmas and happy new year!! Cheers!
Any suggestions??

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To use as a switch only:
Set the HS to 50-55 (rh level desired)
Set the HD to 5 (turn off after raising 5% more set HS)
Set the DD to 5 (turn offf dropping 5% below set HS)
Set the AH to 99 (alarm high)
Set the AL to 20 (alarm low)

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Thank you soo much… you have no idea… the beeping almost cost me my grow. You can hear it thru my whole house!!

Do you think In flower I should go with 50%??