@MAXHeadRoom nice build bro! I’ve yet to do a build with qb, but the reason you have the heatsinks is due to your drive current correct?
For the others out there following this, I’m pretty sure you can drive these boards softer and essentially mount them on a standard 1/8" aluminum plate. It would definitely lower your output, but increase lumens/watt and lower the build cost per lamp. You would need more boards to target watts per sq/ft, but also be more efficient. This is the awesome part of diy, build to suit.
The light I was trying to emulate used an aluminum plate. They sell it pre-drilled for a four board setup for $90. The cost for 4 separate pre-drilled heat sinks was $35 so I went that way. At the power I am running this light the heat sinks where strongly suggested.
The only fan I’m running is the one that provides fresh CO2 to the plants but also cools the light so no wasted energy. Light temp is 79 to 82 on top of heat sink with this fan running (see pic)
Nothing wrong with your setup in my opinion. There was some questions about the heatsink so I was hoping to elaborate for the other members. 1050 and 700ma both seem to be great options for these boards. More or less is getting kinda extreme in either direction. At 1050 you’re still pretty efficient while taking advantage of extra watts per ft/sq.
In my case where I probably have some 1/8 or even 1/4 plate laying around, I’m not sure I would wanna push them to 1 amp plus range. But I could save some money by using the plate or even salvaging some lighter heatsink, and take the boost in efficiency at 700ma. I would then however, need more boards to match the watt per ft/sq you’re producing. Which would drive my initial build cost higher. For those following along with interest, this becomes a major decision within your build. Initial cost vs operating cost. Let me reiterate that there is no flaw with this build at all, it’s just different options that you gain when you decide to go the diy route. The best part is, you always reserve the right to start with one board, cob, or strip, and then add more later.
In @bob31 case, he could buy 1 or 2 boards and a driver to suit his needs. If he decided later that he wanted more, buy 1 or 2 more and another driver. Probably just take some modification to the frame or additional frame work. It’s way different than buying a budget light, and them trying to decide if you want to buy the same light or replace the light you have. You simply make the light you have bigger.
The purpose of this post was to inspire people to build there own lights. I needed a light to flower my first aeroponics grow so I almost purchased a premade light for $350. Upon investigation most of the manufactures of these lights are using low quality LEDs and making claims that aren’t true. The truly good lights are over priced and out of my price range. So the best way to know what you are getting and to keep cost low is to build it yourself. Granted I had a lot of help along the way and at each step verified my decision with the experts in the field. I just wanted to let people know that they could build a great light at a reasonable cost that would meet there needs. And if a normal guy like me with no experience could do it then they could too.
To many times I have seen good grows under preform in the end because of poor lighting and people are disappointed in there yields and wonder what happened and all they did wrong was not provide enough light energy.
I have also seen many people figure this out and keep buying more of these lights and in the end spend as much as it would be to build there own light in the beginning.
And yes there are hundreds of different ways to build these lights and a whole lot of opinions to go with it. Just work backwards from the grow space that you need. This is the best way to start
@dbrn32 and @MAXHeadRoom I’m LOVING this thread and will continue to follow along! I have always wanted to build my own lights but I didn’t have the initial cost up front, so like you said Max, I bought cheaper lights that have a claim to be great lol. By now I could have made at least 2 of my own LED fixtures. Hindsight is always 20/20 right?
But really, you guys are awesome and this is getting me super interested again in looking up the parts and checking prices for my grow room needs. Months ago a member was helping me look up the prices and get quotes directly from the companies over seas.
Question though guys, what are the best chips to buy at this point? Months ago it was the CXB3590’s, but now I have no idea because I know how quickly the industry is advancing.
@ktreez420 there’s a lot more to it than there being a single best chip. Some chips work better in different applications. The dB bin of cxb3590 is a darn good one! Hard to go wrong with anything from that line, even with some of the lower bins. The one issue with the cree chips is price compared to their competitors. Citizen and bridgelux can offer similar performance at a lower cost when ran properly.
These quantam boards offer pretty much the latest technology in mid power diodes. In the past, they were kind of lost due to lack of efficacy. But within the last year or 2 have made a huge comeback. You can get this same technology in pcb strips offered from Samsung. And bridgelux offers strips that are not quite as efficient, but beyond most of the cobs and much cheaper.
In order to keep @MAXHeadRoom thread a little cleaner, maybe start a new thread and we can all discuss some options and see what works best for your goals and size room?
@ktreez420@dbrn32
That information is very accurate. But in 6 months or a year my light will be technologically inferior. Finding out that LEDs are like most technologies advances very quickly. This spring COBs where in and now Quantum boards and next month something else.
I learned a lot from ledgardener.com you can pick out your components and he has a calculator that will tell you which driver to match with your components. He also has a great blog and forum like this one to help with your build.
Check it out
Also Grow Mau5 videos on youtube
Haven’t been to ledgardner.com, will try to check it out. In the meantime I’d be happy to reference manufacturer data sheets for anyone to help size drivers. They are really simple to size once you understand what you’re looking at. I think that understanding what you’re getting and why is a big boost in confidence moving forward with a build. Always great to have professionals to reference though. Any you’re absolutely right about technology. Hard to say what the year will bring. I would still rather have year old led tech at 160-180 lm/watt, than the latest hid at around 110/lm/watt. But that’s just me…
I have to say, great information! @MAXHeadRoom, @dbrn32, @ktreez420, keep it up. Whether I build one or not; it’s still interesting! Bravo on this topic!
Hey I’m sorry about reviving this dead thread but I was wondering where you purchased the heatsinks from. On HLG’s website they are 39$ a pop. That seems overpriced. I’ve been looking around online and haven’t found anything other than people recommending a 1/8 aluminum sheet for the whole thing if I don’t want to spend the money on the sinks. And while I’m at it, I’ve never built a aluminum frame so I’m not sure where to start. Actually I am, just not sure where to purchase the frame material.
Thanks!
Prices have gone up a little on the heatsinks, but $39 sounds like the double board sink. If you’re looking to replicate this build, pretty sure he used slate 2 single board sinks. They were around $25 last I seen, but there was some savings in buying packages of 2 boards and 2 heatsinks. Be cognizant of the output current if you see the bigger boards ran on plate alone. Plate doesn’t cool as well at higher currents.
Hey thanks for the reply. I got a great deal on 4 qb 304’s on ebay so I just jumped on the deal. Now I’m doing the research. I’ve remodeled a house based on youtube and forums so I figure I got this. Lots of research. I want four separate slate 2 heatsinks so I can run them at a decent power on aluminum rack. But, holy shit 172$ for four of them is insane.
Over a year ago I got mine for $11 each. I use this light to flower a 3x3 area but I’m sure it would do a 4x4 too. I used HLG 240H-C1050B driver and run two boards with each driver wired in series. This combination is very efficient. You can build two lights with 2 boards each if you are vegging or flowering a smaller space.
I was also wondering what potentiometers you use. I would like to do two as well instead of hooking both drivers to one. Just in case I decide to split the lights up and use them in separate tents later down the road.
Appreciate the responses. A lot of variables.
The boards come with the led’s already on them? Then all you have to do is mount the heat sink or is it already on the board for you? I have 5 cheap ass China junk roaring away in my tent, 3 vipers 450 - 200 actual watts. 1 bestva 1000 - actual watts 180 and a nother crappy cheap COB from china 1500 - actual watts 250. I have a 5x5 tent which is 25 sq ft canopy coverage. I have 1240 watts and 2 c02 bags and the plants are thriving. Heat is the issue, and I want to make my own lights. I am an electrician so that will not be hard for me to do. My main concern is buying high quality lights and it looks like the quantum boards are the way to go, If I build 4 - 320’s I would be right in line with the watts I need for my 5x5 tent. I am probably going to do the same thing and follow what you did. I seen some bare bones
boards only for $45 dollars on Amazon. if you can add anything it would be greatly appreciated. I have some pics. 4 quantum boards would be nice but I am going to build one at a time and replace china lights as they go out or use as spares. Any way thank you for your post. I am learning more and more every day.@Aquaponic_Dumme@latewood@Donaldj@Tonyb@Countryboyjvd1971@TheDuke@Nug-bug@bob31@Majiktoker@peachfuzz![20180905_065611|690x387]
(upload://jNQfAQFWDzKbsF3WLXMUtZCWH2n.jpeg) I went online to look for a reasonably priced cob light and found this VIHIMAI 1500 w Cob Led. I ordered it but next day I went back online to read more about the light and when I click on the link it takes me to a 1000w light. I called Amazon and they said it is discontinued, wow I started wondering, did I get the last light? Or is it a return? When light came it looked all good upon looking at packaging, but when I opened box and picked up light I could hear something bouncing around inside. I contact Amazon and they contact the seller and no response, in meantime I plugged it in and it worked, so I opened it up found the plastic cheap tabs broke holding the driver. And a big crack in what I think is a capacitor or driver of some sort. Well make a short story long, I put it back together and it is in operation as you can see in pic. Well these are the last ones I buy. Thanks for reading and I am up to any knowledge you can provide as you have the experience and experience is the best teacher.
