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Which ever method you choose to use just be sure to get as much water out of out of them as you can and put a fan on them for a bit…
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I leave for 2 hours with direct fan airflow after rinse.
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Same here! 
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I’ve done a light mist of BT/water in early to mid flower, but very light and definitely stop once buds begin to stack.
I’m surprised I don’t get more bd rot then I do. Some mornings my plants are dripping wet from marine layer pushing in moisture.
I’ve become very aware that plants have natural defenses to mold and mildew and if we can make sure they are healthy with a diverse variety of microbes in some cases they can resist the colonization.
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So, found a post right here on ILGM from a staff member about mold. Decent read. I’m particularly interested in this section. " copper soap or copper spray is another option that can actually be used all the way until your plant’s day of harvest. This works best when it is sprayed onto your plants each week for ten days."
Looks like I can get this stuff over at TSC. This morning instead of just removing the affected buds last night, went ahead and took the entire branches off. I’ll try this copper spray, if it looks like it is spreading, then I’ll yank the plants.
https://ilgmforum.com/t/let-talk-about-mold-and-bud-rot/15728/15?u=bow4buck
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Cool… Man with a plan… It’ll be interesting to see how it works firsthand through you…
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I would look for other info online regarding that.
Second opinions from someone who has actually used it.
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Well well we’ll, what a few days it’s been. Found a few more small popcorn buds turning brown. These were on the same 2 plants. Ended up going 1 cup h202 to a gallon of water and misting all plants daily. Went through all flowering plants and did some leaf removal for better air flow. Got my poles to bend over the top and run plastic. Got storms coming again this afternoon but no rain since I found the issue. Temps pushing 90 to upper 80’s if I put greenhouse plastic over these they are going to burn up. My alternate option, all autos only about 3.5’ or less. I have large black contractor bags that will fit over these plants. Any problem with putting them in the dark while it rains and remove when done? Dont want any reveg issues on top of this. I’d like to make this go at least another week 2 if possible. Got some fat a$$ colas I’d like to take a lil longer.
Guess the hand really doesnt do good for size comparison. Just consider I’m 6’3" 235lbs. Not small hands.
So, anyone see problems with the black bag idea? I know it will also.cause heat build up if left on, also will hold in moisture if left on. Intentions to just put on before rain starts and remove when done. I can easily bend electrical conduit and attach plastic today but sun will take those temps to 100+ temps. Open for suggestions.
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I don’t see any issues with using black bags.
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Hey thanks btw recommending.more reading on the copper spray. Didnt really find much from people who have used it but found plenty says “DO NOT”. Funny though, even in my Google searches the articles on ILGM came up stating can be used right up to harvest. Decided to just go with the h202…
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Just make sure u dont forget to remove the bags. That would be absolutely TRAGIC
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LMFAO, sounds like you know me!! Very well aware though. Luckily I work at home so should be no worries there.
I know ur pain… always have to take that into consideration when i use my hand as a comparison 
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I find that there is a lot of info saying you can or cant use something, but experience is key.
I have learned to always test a spot with something new or unproven.
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If you put your plastic over the top of your conduit and left it up about 3 feet on the bottom all the way around that would help with your temperature also if you left the front and back open the only problem I see with it is if the wind got under it and lifted it up… I’ve never Built one of these before but it seems reasonable to me…what are your thoughts being someone who has Build one of these before…
The hoophouse I have up now is 20x40 the sides stay rolled up. Only difference is the ends are closed. Even with the sides rolled up it stays 100°. Now the easy way I can see to do this is 1. Bend the hoops overhead being 20’ wide I’d need around 25’ of poles to get the arch. 2. Would be to drive anchors at each end, stretch plastic ove the top and tie to each anchor point. Once pulled tight, the plastic can be easily lifted up and down on the sides which would help control the heat for sure. Problem, like you said, not sure how that would stand up to wind. I have greenhouse plastic on hand 65x30 but not interested in it getting tore up. That stuff is not cheap. Catapillar tunnel would look something like this to give ya an idea what I mean.
you can see the side can be easily lifted up that’s how they work or supposed to.
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It looks like they have groups going over the top in between the hoops is that correct? I’m thinking of doing something like this on a very small scale if I can find supplies in smaller quantities such as the plastic To try to grow something outside over the winner…
My gold leaf is 10 ft and still growing…is yours autos? Man they are looking good.
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Most of the time there is a strap or rope tied to the anchors at each end, then tied or looped around each pole and pulled tight to hold the poles in place. Not sure how to keep the plastic from blowing up. Any storm here is easily accompanied by 60mph wind.
EDIT: there are ropes on the outside that zigzag over the top to keep the plastic on but have no idea what it is attached to. Used wiggle wire on the one I already have.