First go round with them and I see a noticeable difference. I found the combo of Bud Candy and Big Bud on Amazon for $54 for 1 liter of each. Not too bad in my eyes but it is pricey. I tired Bud XL from House and Garden, not bad but not really a huge difference.
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@Dennis62, I hear you. My intention is not to convince anyone to change a method they’re happy with. I’m trying to prevent other growers from being tricked the way I was. When I started reading about autos a few years ago, everywhere I looked I saw “don’t transplant autos” or “you can’t transplant autos”. Also saw the exact same things said on multiple YouTube videos. Still today, plenty of people here in the forum tell others members you can’t transplant autos.
So when I decided to switch from photos to autos, I started them in 5 gal pots, based on believing they couldn’t or at least shouldn’t be transplanted, and I did my next run the same way.
Fast forward a ways, and I feel like I was lied to. Not by any one individual or writer or Youtuber, but by a myth spread via bro science throughout the community. And I think people should hear the other side of that myth. It’s perfectly fine to raise autos in solo cups and then transplant into a final pot. Not saying that should be your preferred method, but it’s time for bro science to stop saying it isn’t an acceptable method.
The advice not to transplant autos might have been sound many years ago when autoflower genetics were much weaker and carried more Ruderalis traits, but not anymore. Good Breeders have done a phenomenal job with autoflower genetics over the years.
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Hi @Cap_Ron ,
Im a newbie that took the germinate in a big pot advice for my auto NL. It’s 2 weeks old and I’m wondering what you think of its looks for the age? I’ve seen pics of plants in solo cups that looked bigger than what mine is now. It seems that the soil is so dry in a bigger pot to start that I keep thinking mine isn’t getting enough water but not sure how to water at this stage. Gave her 1 cup on Wednesday sprinkled around in a circle about 2 inches from the stalk as advised. The rest of the soil is like bone dry and wonder if this is slowing the growth. How do you thinly his looks so far? Thanks in advance for any advice.
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@Cap_Ron I have some auto seeds I need to germ and get going. I only do Photos now but have done autos years ago and was also advised to to never transplant them. However, when I “pot up” my photos, my technique in no way hinders growth or stunts them. In fact they immediately explode into new growth every time. I do add dry Mycos to the prepped hole in the coco prior to planting and within 5 days the root tips are showing through the new pots drain holes. So, I have to agree with you on this one. As long at the transplant technique is sound, tried and tested then go for it. I know I am going to with the auto seeds I was gifted.
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I myself prefer final pot, im newbie but if anyone ask me for advice i would recommend transplanting. Why that? Cause i think autos in final pot need some knowledge about watering. New grower tend to overwatering with those big pot. Solo cup would easier for them.
I never grow photoperiod. Actually grow once but it not take me enough to finish her off (poor condition there) so cannot say much.
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@fordk5932, sorry for the delay getting back to you, I had a really busy night. She does look a bit behind schedule for her age, but try not to be discouraged, we’ve all been there. I think @Dennis62 or @kardel can probably give you more accurate advice about watering her in the big pot than I could. My thought would be water much heavier. I think her roots would love to strech out some more, but can’t go into the dry areas.
If you want to give the solo cup a shot on your next try, here’s a link to my current journal where I’m detailing as much as I can through the whole grow.
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@Hogbud, yeah, with the transplanting experience you have with photos, the autos will handle it no problem. There’s a link to my journal in the above comment if you want to check out my method, but it sounds like you have it under control.
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Thanks for the call.
@fordk5932 i was answering at your topic about light. If you ask me about solo cup get bigger than your is. IMO it because they have a good dry/wet schedule. Water less portion it mean more watering schedule, which mean plant can intake more nute. So that the trait of solo cup at few first week.
Judge by your pic she need a little more light intensity like i answering on your topic. But wind may cause this too. Another thing your RH very low. Bring it up to 55-65 if you can.
About watering in big pot. Im not expert but will shared my watering here
Pre-watering soil before put a seed down.keep them wet not damp till day1 start. Just a little spray or droplet~10ml a day.
Seedling 1-2weeks around 500ml each watering you know what i mean? Watering when soil dry. This is condition will play a role here. Too fast or too slow dry isnt good. I usually watering every 2-3days up to condition. It not best but i cant do anything bout it right now.
Following watering will be prefer to plant and pot size. Cannot tell exact but try to maintaine around 2-4days between it. 1liter-2liter in weeks3 full watering in week4 or about water is runoff a bit.
A number above is for my condition so you will have to adjust. But concept watering when almost dry. For few first week if you full watering it will make your pot dry so slow and young girl dont need that much. So if your plant drink more you increase water volumn.
That is. Hope this help.
Oh if it coco a game will change. I never grow in coco but will need more water there
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I do agreed with you, just need to be right timing there.
My experienced with too late transplant auto is she leggy af 
.
As i said it can do both way up to anyone who prefer!
Another things im still a Newbie so I kind of like to learn every methods out there. So i thinks it no right answer, just your preference is. IMO.
Thanks !
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To me this is probably the key point. Leaving an autoflower in a solo cup beyond the transplant point is where problems occur. Since they can start flowering at 3 weeks they can be stunted if waiting too long. I have advised some to start in final pot in the past, just to minimize risk of transplant problems. But I agree that if you simply watch the plant close and transplant well before it flowers you can be very successful.
That said I find photo period plants so much easier to grow consistently well. But I have grown autos that were just great as well.
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Ok these pics are fully vegged photos going into 25L pots but would use the same method for their first stage move( just smaller pots). I swear they never know they been moved lol
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Beautiful and happy looking roots right there for sure!
I’m with you 100% on that @Hogbud. I’ve seen and heard the term “transplant shock” thousands of times, but never experienced it. If our plants could talk, the only thing I would expect to hear after a transplant is “thank you”, lol. Like a Hermit crab who finds a bigger shell. He’s not going to complain, he’s going to party, lol.
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This is a great topic Cap 
I also have never had an issue transplanting and I am not careful when I do it lol I fall on both sides of the fence here. I started using nursery bags just to make transplanting easier for me. I also seem to have a lot of dumb luck when it comes to autos. One thing I think may be important to note. Or I think so is. It is easy to over water and slow things down starting in a solo cup or final pot. And that really effects things here. Here is my dumb luck for autos.
This is one that was 2 weeks old. The little one in the one gallon pot
This was week 4
This finished out at 13 oz
I messed up big time on more than a few autos when I started growing and all have been kind to me.
Other than over watering when starting things off. I think to many over feed autos. I have had less than a handful that could handle more than 1/2 strength with my GH nutes. With jacks. I do full strength since it is pretty mellow.
Other than my jack herrer. All have done better top fed. The JH has been my biggest auto and a total shocker for me
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I got an app for the light measure and right now it shows 588 for PPFD at the top of the seedling.
What should it be? Never measured light before so not sure where is should be at. The lux showed about 32000. Is that good or bad?
Thanks for all your advice it really is helpful.
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Hey @Not2SureYet, you were actually a big part of my decision to try transplanting autos several years ago now. You were the first person I came across that was already doing it that way. Fast forward a few years, and I’ve transplanted a few hundred autos by now, so I’d say I’m pretty sure it’s safe to do, lol.
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Thanks Cap. Just curios. Do you feed in the seedling stage? I used to use just water. But have been feeding with jacks for so long that now I kind of wonder how I would do with just water again
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I use R/O and or dehumidifier water, so I always have at least some calmag in there as a buffer, never plain, but I do start feeding very early. Not with base nutrients, but I use calmag, silica, B-52, Bud Candy, Photosynthesis Plus, and humic acid from seedling on through veg.
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Of course. More then a few runs where done this way. Then I introduced mykos.
I think transplanting photos works because it aleviates a stress. The roots are near bound in the solo cup and then BAM new space is available. They savagely look for the limitis of the new space. This stress is not necessary for an auto. You only have a set number of days for the roots to branch out and then the feed hairs to branch out. This works especially well in cloth pots. The limits are easily found and the branching begins. Mykos help this process immensely! Starting in the pot and transplanting before rootbound begins are the same thing only with an extra step.
Id attribute your increased sucess over the years to your refined techniques and trial and error along the way, the aquired grow skills, more then I would transplanting as a singular practice.
Likely the biggest reason you see the suggestion not to transplant Autoflowers is this…
This forum is dedicated to 1st time growers reaching a successful harvest. With ILGM seeds would be nice but never seen any descrimination, for genetics from anywhere, here. With that in mind the likely success of a first time grower, with autoflowers, is that they start in the larger forever pot. Lotsa ways to shave this kitty. Your way looks like it works great! 
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Thanks Cap I appreciate the shout and @fordk5932 I would be happy to help, I explain my watering practices at the beginning of every grow and you can search Dennis 62 to find all my grows. I will tag you to my current grow where you can chat… Happy growing yall
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I’m glad I found this thread…. Even though I just started my 2nd run ever. I put my germinated beans right into their forever home.
I will be definitively trying the careful banana peel transplant method in my next run.
I did the same thing with my first run and set a goal of 2oz per plant and…. Well let’s just say I fell short of that….
My biggest plant was 16” the rest were hovering around 13”-15” I’m guessing I stunted them and that’s why the stated shortys, or lowriders.
This is my current 2nd run hoping a can do better than the last one. New tent new extra light.
Do you happen to soak your beans? And after you do do you moist paper towel in zip lock baggy germination or directly into solo cup from soak?
I didn’t soak my beans in my first run just germinated.
Thanks for your time and advice/wisdom btw. I’m
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