Another post on transplanting autos!

Hey all, I know this isn’t a new topic here, but I still see so many users suggesting growers start autos in their final pots. I’m not trying to change anyone’s mind if they’re happy with their current routine or techniques, but I feel bad for folks who have received poor advice. The reason a lot of people start autos in big pots is because they’ve read or been told that autos SHOULD NOT be transplanted, and this is just totally untrue.

You should be gentle with them, and follow the instructions of someone who’s done it plenty of times so you don’t make a mistake and stress them out, but if you want the best yields the plants have to offer, you definitely want to transplant them.

This pic of my last batch of seedlings was on 9/7, and they were 12 days old at the time.

This is them on the same day after being transplanted into 5 or 7 gal fabric pots.

And this is them now, one week later.

I think this is evidence enough that autos can be successfully transplanted without negative effects.


I agree. I always transplanted autos when I’ve done them. I don’t run autos anymore though.


This is completely anecdotal, at best. The reason that people dont transplant autos is there are ways that dont risk stress to increase root size and quantity. A single day of transplant shock is very costly with an auto.

Autos do best without having to trick the plant into more roots. Try using a mykos product you will get the same if not more roots with zero chances of transplant shock.
Just my 2 cents.


I couldn’t possibly disagree with you more on this. I switched to autos over 3 years ago now. When I first switched I followed the “don’t transplant autos” rule on my first few runs.
There is no question that seedlings do far better in a smaller container than a big pot, this has never been disputed. With an auto you can’t make back that lost time of slow growth in a big pot. Besides, I see absolutely no signs of transplant shock whatsoever with the method I use for transplanting. Less than 24 hours after the transplant growth is apparent. No slow down, no signs of stress, just fast and aggressive growth.

Back when I started them in 5 gal pots they would average a few ounces a piece. Then it occurred to me that my auto seedlings in 5 gal pots absolutely NEVER got off to the same great start that my photo period plants always did in solo cups. So I decided to start my next bunch in solo cups and transplant them very carefully. It went awesome, and I’ve been doing it that way for years now. My average yield on autos now is 5 to 8 ounces each in soil and up to 10 to 12 ounces in coco.

Just curious, have you ever tried it to see for yourself?


I transplant all my autos from solo cups to 3 or 5 gallon fabric pots. I use the banana peel technique with mykos in the new hole. Works great!!! Doesn’t slow then down one bit. Below are my current auto grows. Bruce Banner on the left and Blueberry Gusto on the right.

The little ones are Bluefruit autos that are a month old today and already flowering.


Good looking plants @Highwayman420!

I feel bad when I see people post pics of autos that are 6 inches tall and almost 2 months old. I know we can’t save the world, but each grower that gets the message about it being ok to transplant autos is a step in the right direction, lol.


Thanks buddy, they have been pretty easy. Agreed, I tend to treat the autos the same as photos, to a certain extent. Lights stay at 18/6, but I still use coco and Jack’s 321 with all my plants. I started using Bud Candy this grow as well, pretty good stuff. I have a tent full of photos going as well, one Banana Kush and one Goldleaf. With them, I started using Big Bud and Bud candy. They blew the heck up.


I love Advanced Nutrients. Unfortunately it wrecks my budget and I have to sacrifice elsewhere sometimes, but I think it’s worth it in the end. A couple of years ago I did a side by side grow with one group getting my normal Advanced Nutrients feedings and the other group all organic. The organic plants did great through veg, but the Advanced Nutrients girls crushed them during flower and yielded way more.


Hey man the way I see it is if a person knows the soil they are using and water properly for that soil, anyone can be successful, you can up pot if you have happy healthy plants, I plant in forever pot, watering by the size of the plant, and I end up with pots full of healthy root balls. Check out my last 10 grows and see I water seedlings and plants more like coco, but my soil allows good drainage but still retains moisture well. Unhealthy seedlings and small autos, watering habits are biggest suspect, both too much and too little


First go round with them and I see a noticeable difference. I found the combo of Bud Candy and Big Bud on Amazon for $54 for 1 liter of each. Not too bad in my eyes but it is pricey. I tired Bud XL from House and Garden, not bad but not really a huge difference.


@Dennis62, I hear you. My intention is not to convince anyone to change a method they’re happy with. I’m trying to prevent other growers from being tricked the way I was. When I started reading about autos a few years ago, everywhere I looked I saw “don’t transplant autos” or “you can’t transplant autos”. Also saw the exact same things said on multiple YouTube videos. Still today, plenty of people here in the forum tell others members you can’t transplant autos.

So when I decided to switch from photos to autos, I started them in 5 gal pots, based on believing they couldn’t or at least shouldn’t be transplanted, and I did my next run the same way.

Fast forward a ways, and I feel like I was lied to. Not by any one individual or writer or Youtuber, but by a myth spread via bro science throughout the community. And I think people should hear the other side of that myth. It’s perfectly fine to raise autos in solo cups and then transplant into a final pot. Not saying that should be your preferred method, but it’s time for bro science to stop saying it isn’t an acceptable method.

The advice not to transplant autos might have been sound many years ago when autoflower genetics were much weaker and carried more Ruderalis traits, but not anymore. Good Breeders have done a phenomenal job with autoflower genetics over the years.


Hi @Cap_Ron ,

Im a newbie that took the germinate in a big pot advice for my auto NL. It’s 2 weeks old and I’m wondering what you think of its looks for the age? I’ve seen pics of plants in solo cups that looked bigger than what mine is now. It seems that the soil is so dry in a bigger pot to start that I keep thinking mine isn’t getting enough water but not sure how to water at this stage. Gave her 1 cup on Wednesday sprinkled around in a circle about 2 inches from the stalk as advised. The rest of the soil is like bone dry and wonder if this is slowing the growth. How do you thinly his looks so far? Thanks in advance for any advice.


@Cap_Ron I have some auto seeds I need to germ and get going. I only do Photos now but have done autos years ago and was also advised to to never transplant them. However, when I “pot up” my photos, my technique in no way hinders growth or stunts them. In fact they immediately explode into new growth every time. I do add dry Mycos to the prepped hole in the coco prior to planting and within 5 days the root tips are showing through the new pots drain holes. So, I have to agree with you on this one. As long at the transplant technique is sound, tried and tested then go for it. I know I am going to with the auto seeds I was gifted.


I myself prefer final pot, im newbie but if anyone ask me for advice i would recommend transplanting. Why that? Cause i think autos in final pot need some knowledge about watering. New grower tend to overwatering with those big pot. Solo cup would easier for them.

I never grow photoperiod. Actually grow once but it not take me enough to finish her off (poor condition there) so cannot say much.


@fordk5932, sorry for the delay getting back to you, I had a really busy night. She does look a bit behind schedule for her age, but try not to be discouraged, we’ve all been there. I think @Dennis62 or @kardel can probably give you more accurate advice about watering her in the big pot than I could. My thought would be water much heavier. I think her roots would love to strech out some more, but can’t go into the dry areas.

If you want to give the solo cup a shot on your next try, here’s a link to my current journal where I’m detailing as much as I can through the whole grow.


@Hogbud, yeah, with the transplanting experience you have with photos, the autos will handle it no problem. There’s a link to my journal in the above comment if you want to check out my method, but it sounds like you have it under control.


Thanks for the call.

@fordk5932 i was answering at your topic about light. If you ask me about solo cup get bigger than your is. IMO it because they have a good dry/wet schedule. Water less portion it mean more watering schedule, which mean plant can intake more nute. So that the trait of solo cup at few first week.

Judge by your pic she need a little more light intensity like i answering on your topic. But wind may cause this too. Another thing your RH very low. Bring it up to 55-65 if you can.

About watering in big pot. Im not expert but will shared my watering here

Pre-watering soil before put a seed down.keep them wet not damp till day1 start. Just a little spray or droplet~10ml a day.

Seedling 1-2weeks around 500ml each watering you know what i mean? Watering when soil dry. This is condition will play a role here. Too fast or too slow dry isnt good. I usually watering every 2-3days up to condition. It not best but i cant do anything bout it right now.

Following watering will be prefer to plant and pot size. Cannot tell exact but try to maintaine around 2-4days between it. 1liter-2liter in weeks3 full watering in week4 or about water is runoff a bit.

A number above is for my condition so you will have to adjust. But concept watering when almost dry. For few first week if you full watering it will make your pot dry so slow and young girl dont need that much. So if your plant drink more you increase water volumn.

That is. Hope this help.

Oh if it coco a game will change. I never grow in coco but will need more water there


I do agreed with you, just need to be right timing there.

My experienced with too late transplant auto is she leggy af :sweat_smile:.

As i said it can do both way up to anyone who prefer!

Another things im still a Newbie so I kind of like to learn every methods out there. So i thinks it no right answer, just your preference is. IMO.

Thanks !


To me this is probably the key point. Leaving an autoflower in a solo cup beyond the transplant point is where problems occur. Since they can start flowering at 3 weeks they can be stunted if waiting too long. I have advised some to start in final pot in the past, just to minimize risk of transplant problems. But I agree that if you simply watch the plant close and transplant well before it flowers you can be very successful.
That said I find photo period plants so much easier to grow consistently well. But I have grown autos that were just great as well.


Ok these pics are fully vegged photos going into 25L pots but would use the same method for their first stage move( just smaller pots). I swear they never know they been moved lol