Sweden wants help :-)

Some perks to being a Mod I am pretty sure your goal isn’t to spam so she is now in advanced class :wink: member rather than new user

TY Donald for the confidence :kissing_heart:
We flood one hour after lights go on and no later than 2 hours before “bedtime”. Lights are on for 18 hours

NP I just have to remember I can set level at times I am still just one of the guys and forget I actually work here cause I have too much fun :wink:
So not over watering I suspect if I gave you a recipe (nutrient schedule) you would have no problem translating?

No problems at all to translate. English is after all the second most spoken language in this house( cuz i really cant understand dutch or french :rofl)

But are u sure on the N ?? It started in the top going down

Arghh still doesent matter cuz its lacking everything if we are running it to low on nutes

My water is quite like yours in ppm but I suspect you have higher calcium than mine. So I would like you to first test your ph meter and make sure it is working properly
Then on your next nutrient change I am converting your res to gallons for others reading 100L is around 27 Gal
All general hydro charts are measured per/gal
5ml micro
5ml grow
5ml bloom
1 tbls Epsoms salt :slight_smile: Mag
see if you can find a potassium silicate in liquid (Armor Si) is GH product
2.5ml Gal

the reason I shared the link to N is that dark leaves and hooking growth are indicator of a toxicity more than a def but being in hydro can also be caused by cold water over watering :wink: inaccurate ph. A whole list of things and your ppm is fairly low so could be all the other things too since some minerals help to transport others.

Sorry delayed response as I was multi tasking waiting on a parcel so every time dogs bark I have to get up and check

I am not positive it is N which is why the Mag and Silicate suggestion plants grown in soil have silicate all the time in hydro we add it it helps in plant structure and elongation Mag helps in transport of nutrients and Metals like copper iron zinc: which all cause yellowing at top if absent :wink:

So we do a total change this weekend. The ph meter is calibrated again today. Do we need to add some extra. I mean when u read the mysterious feeding charts from GH they suggest one get the bloom up in flowering stage. Our water at the tap is very soft if u know what i mean. 1,5 dh or 3,5 clarke. Thats why we added more calcium.And what EC do u suggest we keep in the res. Or should we not worrie to much ab that? Armor Si is very hard to get anywhere in europe. It really sucks. Have grown only once before this and that was a disaster. Dont know what went wrong but outa 40 plants we only got 120 gram of good material. But my test person said it was the best quality…i try out your schedule and return some feedback on it

Firstly if you are planning to go to flower this instant than hold off for a week or so you want plants healthy first.
During stretch period of flower bloom nutrients are raised weekly at transition equal parts works quite well as well as late veg.


A plant with closer to that color and size is what I would expect to see prior to flower :wink: and my EC is around 1.7 picture was lastnight after topping
this picture is 5 days earlier

If schedule doesn’t help we can tweak it but in hydro plants respond fast to every change

Lol im not planning anything. My autoflowers decide by themselves and last time we couldnt do anything to prevent it. They got from seed to harvest in 10weeks.(AK-47) and i suspect it would do the same this time even if I want to wait. Do u do auto or normal fem?? Only feeding with silicate in it we can find here is Mineral Magic from GHE

Any form of silicate should help I grow Fem or Reg not auto’s myself they are incredibly unforgiving. I would love to help you guys have a nice harvest I grow less than legal myself so grasp risk verse reward quite well. I also live in Canada not the states so some products aren’t at my disposal fortunately many are, I have helped many people through tough hydro issues so just try and have faith that I will do my best to keep you on track :slight_smile:
If in a few days conditions don’t look any better we can easily adjust the schedule I gave gives you room to add more or other items should measure around 8-900ppm give or take and if you need Cal it leaves room to add at a top off once your plants start to bloom I have a variation which will negate need for additives PK boosters if they are hard to locate

i def gonna keep u updated. Now its bedtime here lol. I talk to u in a couple of days.

`@Tuttan…how offen are you watering your plants ?, cause the first thing I thought f was OVERWATERING

Check this pic out OVERWATERING

1134overwtering1

Over watering is one of the biggest mistakes new growers make, reason for this is, because they feel
the need to give there plant everything and will overdue a lot of things and one of them is over
watering. By over watering your plant you soak the roots so much, they can’t get enough oxygen
and slowly die. The plant shows signs of over watering by: Wilting, droopy look, yellow and or dead
leaves falling off, which includes leaves that don’t look dead falling off. One of the best ways to
tell how NOT to over water is by, picking up the pot when it is dry and then picking up the pot after
you water. (This is a reason why it’s smart to use light pots.) When you water, you want to water just
enough to where you see a bit of water coming out of the bottom, not gushing or pouring out
. Just enough to see a little bit, then you know the plant has enough water. To prevent over watering
you can either: add more perlite to your soil, add hydrogen peroxide to your water for extra oxygen,
all the while killing bacteria if any in the soil. After watering, wait a few days to water. Mj plants
like a good watering and then a couple days to dry out in between watering. So it’s very easy t
o over water. Besides the weight of the pot, another way to test if your plant needs water is to stick
your index finger a couple inches into the soil. If the soil at the tip of your finger feels almost dry,
then it’s time to water again. The top of the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings if it’s
still moist the plant does NOT need watered. You can also use a moisture meter which will tell you the level
of moisture down in the soil. You can buy them at most garden supplies or hydro shops.
Here is a picture of what over watering looks like:

From the Guides,
Sometimes plants growing in planting mixes will experience a lack of calcium, but most of all it happens to marijuana that is growing in a hydroponic system. Unless your hydroponic system has had lime, a huge source of calcium, added to it, then a calcium deficiency is not uncommon.

It also is more likely to occur with some sources of water rather than others. Distilled water, reverse osmosis water, and tap water often don’t contain much dissolved calcium – they need to be supplemented in order to provide your plants with enough calcium from the beginning.

Also LED lights offer a smaller spectrum of light. Certain wavelengths the plant requires to generate calcium are absent. So keep an eye on calcium deficiency when growing with LED.

Calcium is a semi-mobile nutrient, so the signs of a calcium deficiency begin with the new growths on your plant, but they will start moving after a period of time. You will first see it in the new growths towards to top of your plant as well as the middle vegetative growth. This is simply because it appears first in the area that is growing the fastest.
st of marijuana plant symptoms
Leaf Color:
– Leaves’ green color darkening
– Large, light brown necrotic spots

Leaf Symptoms:
– Spotting and mottling
– New leaves are small and distorted
– The tips of leaves curl
– Leaves are dying off

Plant Symptoms:
– Flower or bud development is slow or buds never fully develop
– Stunted growth
– Young shoots are crinkling
– Young shoots are discolored – purple or yellow
– Stems and branches are weak, easily broken
– Stems are hollowing out or decaying from the inside
– Plant doesn’t withstand heat well

Root Symptoms:
– Roots may begin dying off or turning brown
– Root systems not fully developed
– Root diseases and bacterial diseases
http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/nutrients-deficiency-calcium/

already checked the watering schedule it’s ebb&flow floods every 2 1/2hrs being hydro and straight clay pellets should be enough air :wink:

Not uncommon but the water filter they are using is a Calcium base to add calcium to the drinking water and using GH flora series at full strength correct ph has enough Cal in most cases and Cal-mag was added at most changes.
I agree the thought overwatering came to mind as did Calcium but the low EC on it’s own would lead to multiple def.
So the advise I gave was adjusted schedule to higher EC silicate which helps plant structure and should reduce droop

We dont even flood that much. Every 4 hours so a total of 5 Times a day but yes it is straight clay. Today we empty everythin out and flush a couple of Times wh Clean water so the system are back to zero before we go on the shedule Donaldj gave me.

@Donaldj is the epsomsalt also calculated per gallon.?? Only thought it was pretty much with a tablespoon per gallon or.??

yes sorry all per Gallon or every 4 liters roughly