I have used matchsticks with a little wood glue to tighten the hole. Wood butcher from way back.
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Yes I have my tent partially open during lights on, i have opened my ceiling exhaust back up, thats a great help, love moving air. I get almost 3 gallons of dehumidifier water everyday. Can feel the weather changing
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Ive got a 50litre dehum during lights out …but I’ve got to do more…ive got 5 fans blowing the crap out of everything…guess second dehum and 6" filtered exhaust thru the ceiling vent…got to get this in check… could do 2 6" exhaust thru ceiling(2 vents in here)…have an extra 4" filter and. Ooops …I am in a power outtage…no lights for miles…not good
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I know at least 2 plumbers on this forum once the question is posted I’ll tag them over
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So my washer is in the basement and when i moved in, they had everything already removed and gone so not sure how they had it set up. I installed a utility sink next to it (need to bolt into cement floor to meet code from what ive seen so far). The drain on the utility sink is threaded for a pump so i have a pump on there that kicks on once the amount of pressure is reached. I have a ball valve to throttle the flow out so the pump stays at a constant once running instead of on/off on/off. Also have a check valve on that line.
I dont believe its properly vented (kitchen sink is right above it and you hear a gurgle coming from it every time the pump kicks on in the basement when doing laundry) and do i need some sort of p trap on it? Heres the kitchen sink drain line tying in:
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I’m not a plumber but you’re correct that it makes that sound because it’s not vented.
I think the typical application is to have sink gravity drain to an ejection pit. The pit would be vented an then pump from there. There would also be some considerations taken to where and how the pump circuit entered your discharge line and a check valve needed.
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Ill have to look into that as this is the first im hearing of those. Im starting to think the previous owner just ran the washer discharge line right into the sump pump well, not sure what they couldve been doing since there wasnt any evidence of a prior hookup.
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@plumbdand @OverallQuill80 could you help out @brownsfan100 if you have time?
Thanks Guy’s
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There are vents you can install that go above the point of draining for these applications if I am seeing your photos correctly. I had a similar problem in my upstairs sink in this old house–the previous owner made PVC origami trying to vent instead of doing it correctly.
It’s called an air admittance valve. Costs like $30 or so, but not sure if your area allows by code, but maybe it will help. But double check with the pros.
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Lots of cover here. Venting: The discharge directly from the sink to a pump is weird to me. Plumbing code varies depending upon where you live that can dictate what type of equipment and methods are needed and prohibited. Below grade point of use compact above floor pumps/ mini crock combos made for this purpose are what I would have chosen for this scenario. Pump lines are not vented on this type run I’m looking at. The location where it’s tied into the house drain in regards to the proximity an atmospheric vent already existing for the house drainage. I’m assuming that the gurgling is a recent development? If true your drains may have congestion that is not currently causing a stoppage but enough to slow water. If it has always caused this then it may simply be too far away from a vent for the size line or momentarily overloading the capacity of the drain. Too much water at one time can block access to the nearest vent. I would bet it all on drain congestion because laundry lint and kitchen grease are not good things combined. Code here forbids them to share a line under 3” nowadays for this reason but codes have differed from era to era which brings me to the last point. I can’t tell you whether this configuration would be an issue selling or not. Comes down code where you live and how an inspector interprets them. Some things are passed on grandfather clause if the work was done prior to a change in code forbidding. I hope this helps give you some real insight on what is likely going on and what to do next. Thinking the black abs line should be snaked. Ps, the air admittance valves are not likely to help in this situation unless the problem is inadequate ventilation from day one and it should be installed on a vertical dry vent above the basement. Lots I can’t see so I can only describe the most common causes. You may be able to resolve this yourself but I don’t give 100% definite answers if I can’t physically walk the job and see the entire picture. There are many factors involved in diagnosis such as age, layout, and often other variables that are only apparent when I can look and test in person. I am leaning toward recommending you call your trusted local plumber and if you don’t know of one, ask friends, neighbors, relatives who they trust rather than just trusting advertising and reviews.
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Really squinting but I think I see a 2 on the hubs of the Y in the last picture. More evidence that the line is congested. Drain probably fine when just a faucet is used but gets overloaded with a larger volume of water. Pipe can’t carry it away as fast as the pump can inject it. Water backs up and blocks the vent riser if it is downstream of the pump line but the nearest vent is probably the kitchen drain line unless the k sink is back to back with a bathroom, or directly below it. That points back to typical congestion buildup restricting flow the kitchen sink is the next lowest drain opening the air can escape from the inside of the pipe. It can be a blocked vent above the kitchen also but drain congestion is far far more common.
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Thanks for waying in brother @OverallQuill80 much appreciated
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That’s kinda how mine runs
Mine goes Through a P trap under the sanitary sink then just drains into the pit
Where is the pit in relation to the tub?
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Where it discharges also has bearing. You can’t discharge domestic waste water just anywhere. Has to tie to sanitary sewer or septic system. That would definitely be likely to come up in an inspection since it would violate environmental laws also.
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I have 2 pits, 1 is for just rain water and 1 for sanitary
It used to be both rain water and sanitary dumped into the sewer system out of the 1 pit, the village made us install the rain pit because the sewer system was getting overloaded
Most homeowners however bypass the rain pit and dump into the sewer instead of the rain water coming out all the time in front of the house
That’s where the rain water pit is dumped out in the front of the house
In this village it is not required to have an inspection when selling so they get away with it
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Also not seeing any reason to choke it down with a valve halfway closed other than it might have been gurgling a little from simple overload upon initial testing and that was the cheater fix for the new pop up issue. Toilets and washing machines discharge a lot of water at once and sometimes that reveals early symptoms of drain clogging when everything else is “ running fine “. You can also check other areas while the laundry drains out and see if there is gurgling or bubbling toilet elsewhere. The problem can and probably is limited to one branch line but if other drains are affected then it is likely the main line. Bathtubs are usually the lowest open point and are a good place to check for noise or water backup.
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I think your assessment that the pump is pushing more water than drain can handle is correct. The gurgling sound is coming from the air between line and p trap for the sink. We had a situation like that only involved tub on main floor when we purchased our current home.
There was already an ejector pit installed for basement bathroom and laundry, but where it went into septic line disrupted the trap for tub. The plumber that fixed this simply moved our ejector plumbing to larger part of the line.
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I guess I should mention that gurgling works two ways. A drain filling up with water will push air back behind it and it escapes wherever it can which can bubbling through the trap of the nearest fixture/s. The other scenario is blocked or inadequate ventilation will cause the opposite effect where water will pull a vacuum as it tries to move downhill and suck air from wherever it can and pull air through the trap, often siphoning out the water resulting in sewage gas smell near those fixtures.
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Whidbey Island got hit with high winds and power out today.
Battery back-up on timers, all except one.
Lights were off in tents.
House on septic system.
Kitchen drain slow during rain days and continuous times.
Gurgles too.
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Theres so many different things that could be going on here. I would have to see it in person to figure out whats really going on. Partially clogged discharge line or partially clogged vent would be my first guess. It could be plumbed in wrong in the first place. I cant tell from the pictures.
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