Ramblings, tricks, vpd, boundary layer

What’s the word there? Is legalization ever going to happen, is there any movement? We hear nothing about it state side. Except dangerous “skunk”. Every time I read in the news about dangerous skunk I say that’s the weed I want if I ever go visit your island. Ha

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The UK government took the appropriate approach. Whereas it didn’t legalize it it did downgrade punishment for small time users, growers, dealers. In fact most police forces haven’t got the time or budget and kindly remind that if you do it out of sight and don’t disturb the peace they aren’t trying to catch you.

For a minor offence you’ll get a slap on the wrist, more and a fine along with community service type bullshit.

They are after the larger types, gangs, those who profit lots, anything crime related, youths etc.

Me and friends had police walk in when smoking they laughed did nothing as not there for us. Depends on the area or police, if you walk round you’ll see joint butts and the smell it’s reasonably popular.

For a tourist to come and get weed here simply find someone on the site in the UK, it’s easy to get if you know people.

As to the future the idea is we won’t be the first to legalize but wait for the rest of Europe then follow their lead, again a suitable approach. Won’t happen soon sorry.

If you take it to a vote far more vote no to legalize it, it’s got a bad rap although we have had regular government discussions over the years.

I believe it’s still a class B drug, A the worst C the least, use to be class C but still gets treated like it although it carries the sentence of prison for small amounts still that’s practically impossible and our prisons too full to enforce any more than mild punishment non custodial.

Is that not the right approach to keep everyone happy? Any vote for legalization would fail yet the government dosent try to stop us having some fun. I grow, don’t worry about the police, I get caught a fine max who cares suits me for the competitive pricing.

As to price it seems fair £30 an eight although most of the times you weight it and got ripped of with a three gram deal lol. £150 an Oz if your in the know. Seems competitive with alcohol and other things, very affordable people with basic jobs never run out.

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Well, my box is coldest if the lights are off & the plate heaters are off. Winter now & could freeze in there during the long cold spells. Plate heaters cycling during lights-off keep it around 72f on thier current settings. Light comes on & temps will rise to around 78 - 80f on current setting of 50%, would rise higher on higher settings. Heat mostly from the ballast & the led drivers not the actual light photons themselves, not sure if that is what you were getting at. Plate heaters will shut off during lights-on, but I could raise their setpoint to add heat on top of the lights heat. Did that last winter but trying to run them less during lights-on this time. Less heat in there during lights-on without them. If central is turned up then the numbers rise more quickly & get a little higher,
& then don’t fall as fast or as low as it does when central is turned lower.

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I pull enough air a heater in my grow will only get it’s heat sucked outside before it can heat the space. It will warm it a little but the cost isn’t worth it.

My place gets heated so it’s good enough to grow in luckily, radiators are storage heaters last 24hours and warm during the night on cheap tariff then give heat all day…

There’s not many options other than heating the room the grow is in. My thermometer is out of any light generally dosent rise much over air temps with lights on.

Summer is perfect, no need to heat anything, I’m a couple months of the nice weather here.

Do you run HID or LED? The difference between the two should show up if comparing the leaf temperature offsets. Or if everything is the same, I’d be willing to bet that the HPS plant is transpiring a lot more to be able to do it. HPS can put out enough IR to directly heat surfaces, LEDs don’t unless they have true IR diodes, which I’ve seen but not in grow fixtures. My little 250-270 HPS bulb used to feel like it was burning my scalp almost instantly when I would work under it without a hat on. I never was tracking air temps back when I ran it so I don’t know what the offset was, but oddly enough I had my IR gun & would let the leaves go up to 84f max, & that was the extent of my strategy back then. Now I just do whatever.

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No the IR in hps is a tiny amount, it shouldn’t change a leaf temperature by much if at all. All light is radiation and will heat a leaf, the one that absorbs the most light will have the higher thermal budget to cool.

I would assume the offset the same for well watered plants. What do people assume a good offset is, 1-5c, how much can hid cause an offset if plant is healthy, I’d assume any difference was hard to read and also pretty irrelevant.

As air approaches 30c the offset grows smaller. In most species in the field. Probably gets smaller as air cools even slightly warmer but we shouldn’t have that possibly at night.

Offset is affected by the amount of soil moisture.

Offset was a factor of light intensity.

Overall offset is largely a factor of air temperature

I’ve used all lights but still go back to hid, whenever there’s a drugs bust on the news here it’s all hid in the grow. No lights cost much to run here but hid is ten times cheaper I cant see myself buying the £1000 led I really want and control gear just yet plus it’s a pain to lose If I got busted. Hid is so cheap they are throw away lights, £50 for 600w digi. Ok led are much better more efficient but still the top ones cost too much I’ll suffer with that tiny bit of iR and less yield although if I wanted more yield I’d get a bigger grow and a second hid lol.

No need to defend HID, sometimes I miss running mine because of the radiant heat. I’m not going to drag it out to check, but I’ll check if I need to run it. My recollection is that the radiant heat was much more than my current leds, & I would expect to see either a tighter offset as compared to the led, or perhaps a higher transpiration rate, if all else were equal.

I’ll say that I have observed the offset tighten up when I allow my plants in my smaller cab which are in lava & sit in saucers to dry back. This is led & sometimes fluros.

I’ll also say that I have observed the offset of my led cab with the hydro bucket to stay near around the same, even with changes in air temperature across maybe a 20 degree range. It’ll tend to want to widen if the ambient air is cooler, it may narrow up a little with warmer ambient air, or if I move the light closer even after turning it down for the same par at the top. With all that being said, it’s not to say that your plant in your conditions act differently. Easy enough to check though.

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Which dosent tell you much unfortunately, that was the issue I had trying to make any heads or tails of leaf temps.

Nice to see a change when the lava rock ones dried back.

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Maybe this will help you or someone else, excuse whatever you know already.
-You need to know the leaf temp & the surrounding air temp to calculate the leaf temp offset.
Leaf Temp - Air Temp = Leaf Temp Offset
If the answer is negative, that is fine & how it should be expressed. If it is zero or positve, that is how it should be expressed.
-You need to know the leaf temp offset to know which Leaf VPD chart to use. &/or you need to know the leaf temp or the leaf temp offset to plug the data into a Leaf VPD calculator. Some calculators ask for the leaf temp, some ask for the offset. Either way if you don’t have what it wants, you can’t get the Leaf VPD number from the calculator. Keep in mind that VPD targets are Leaf VPD targets, not Air/Room VPD targets. A VPD calculator that only asks for air temp & RH is applying the air temp to the leaf temp factor automatically, & the leaf temp offset is zero & the answer that it gives you is Air/Room VPD. If you see a VPD chart that does not tell you its offset, you can pick a cell & run the numbers through a VPD calculator & change the leaf temp until the leaf VPD answer matches the number in the cell, subtract the air temp from the leaf temp & you have the offset of the chart, provided it was properly generated in the first place. I see a lot of incomplete or incorrect descriptions out there online. But you can check a chart by running a few cells through a calculator & seeing if the answers are the same or basically the same, or not. I avoid the ‘wrong offset chart’ issues & the ‘doing the offset calculation backwards’ issues & the ‘how much temperature does the light put into the leaves’ issues by just checking the leaf temps & surrounding air temps & RH, & just plugging it all into a Leaf VPD calculator that asks for the leaf temp instead of the offset, & I get the Leaf VPD, & that is what I adjust towards the Leaf VPD target numbers, not the air/room VPD.