First things first. You gotta get that water cold. . Bubble hash is all about the temperature of the water. (Not the ice) J like to work with two coolers. The larger one ti keep the bags of ice in and the smaller one to hash ice that’s ready to scoop.
Next we need to get her the rest of our supplies. I like to use a few smaller washing machines rather than one large one. This allows me to monitor each wash alittle closer. I picked up both of these units off Amazon. One spin alittle faster than the other.
You will also need isopropyl alcohol, scrub brush, micron scenes (25 micron), butter knife and spoon.
I like to use a 220–>120–>45 micron bag set up. I also have a large 35 gallon full mesh 25 gallon micron. If you do the 25 micron I would highly suggest a full mesh. Drains so gosh darn slow.
I have made a setup with the five gallon bucks where each micron screen sits about 4 inches above each others. No touching! This allows them to drain faster and more efficiently.
One of the most important areas that many overlook is the timing of each wash. I have perfected this schedule over the past three years. It’s works amazing for me.
The resin heads freez and break off of the plant material. (It’s not the ice that smashes it)
Since I like to smoke my bud I tend to mostly wash trimming. The turn around is still well worth it. It’s wild you can get full melt out of some peoples scraps.
Roughly 1.5 bags split between the two washers is the perfect amount. I don’t weigh anything because I truly don’t care about weight. I load up each washer with material and put a layer of ice on top of it. Next I fill it with water.
I the washers and product sit for at least 30 minutes. This is called the rehydration period and very very important.
After the hydration period I start the wash cycles. Sticking to the planed time schedule. While washing you want to see a nice strong vortex with the water/product. This is what will vary the resin heads down into the drain.
After the 5 minute wait (after the spin) I hit the drain valve and allow the water to flow threw the screen.
Once the washer is empty I immediately shut the drain valve, dump a layer of ice in and fill the washer back up. (It’s all about keeping the washer washing)
The water coming out of the washer should be a clean goldfish green color. If it’s dark green you have blended the product too much with the washer.
I then separate each screen by removing one bucket at a time. Allowing any extra water to drain into the black totes.
One step that many people overlook is the second wash. Just as important as the first. The second wash is done with the hose. I abruptly spray the hash that is collected in each screen. Spraying it just enough where the hash gets agitated against the screen. This cleans the hash and dose a final separation of the micron sizes.
After the second wash I allow all extra water to drain out. I then stretch the bag/screen tight. I use a spoon and butter knife and scoop it off the micron screen.
I set the hash onto a clean 25 micron screen. It will sit on this screen for the next two weeks as it air dries.
I let the hash dry on the micron screen for about two weeks. The hash will turn black as it oxidizes from the oxygen.
Finely comes the formation of the Temple Balls. I don’t like to press all the hash cause I like variety but when I do this is kinda what it looks like.
I use boiling water and a clear 40oz growler to do the Decarboxylation. I Decarboxylation and press twice. I have found this to be the sweet spot. The Temple Ball is virtually the only form of hash that will last forever.
Well…… I hope you all enjoyed this little hashing journey.
Happy farming everyone…