Nanashi 0_o needs help with a 1000w ballast

I have a 1000w Agromax from like 2008 with maybe a month of use on it.
It blew a fuse (250v 15amp ceramic) and i swapped it with a fuse from my new ballast (another new 1000w ballast with same 250v 15amp rating and same size but not ceramic.) it and blew instantly.

What do i do to troubleshoot this (or at least know if its not worth my time right now?)
I have a klein multi-meter so i am able to open it and test components. (with guidance)

Or did this fuse not being ceramic really matter THAT much? and i should just wait for the pack i ordered to show?

I can get Pics if it matters

Thanks Dudes and Dudettes

0_o

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There’s a thread called let’s talk diy lights that this question would get an answer in quickly. And some incredibly educated people on the subject. @dbrn32

Hope you don’t mind the tag

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Thank you 0_o

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First thing I would do is double check the fuses to manufacturers specification. It may have to be a time delay or “slow blow” fuse to deal with inrush current.

If everything is good there, I would think an instantaneously trip condition would be a short or ground in circuit between ballast and bulb socket.

@dbrn32

5s
15a250v

Im guessing 5 =5mm
s= slowblow? (this can not be right because it is a ceramic fast blow…I think)

Closest i could find was this (jugged by size amp rating and ceramic fastblow.)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B1X8D8J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Side question. Can a bad bulb blow a fuse? (plugged that fixture into other ballast and it is fine so its not this…just curious.)

Is there somthing i can do to check it while i wait for extra fuses?

i.e check between the ballast side of the fusible link and check the socket plug for connectivity (or lack of) or a short between two spots that should or should not be there i can check?
Something i can play with to better understand what im playing with?

0_o

I suppose it’s possible, can you see anything wrong with the bulb? Have you double checked the input and output specs of ballast to make sure it’s compatible with what you’re using?

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1000w dimmable ballast (that i always use on 100%)
The bulbs are both fine… i have been switching the two hoods back and forth to the good ballast.
I did see a…(dont know what to call it) quaking… in the light on that ballast a day before it stopped…like a change in color over and over very quick…

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110v - 220v running on 110

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Maybe ballast is just toast. Could have gotten some moisture or something inside while being stored. Never good with electronics.

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I kept it in a box truck for about a decade sooo probably.

I ordered a new one.

Thanks for the help.

Ill open this up later and find the failure. (For entertainment value.)

0_o

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If you don’t mind, post some pics of whatever you find. I’m curious too.

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Will do

0_o

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@dbrn32 Any idea what these socket designation are? E26 E27? yadi yada

I cant find the name to look up info on the wiring

I need to know the one on the lefty is the hot line. (guess i could check a working ballast.)

0_o

No short on the housing between (BSFL) ballast side of fusible link .

I have current between BSFL and Socket outlet (left side) No other combination of points have conductivity)

My guess is this is all normal witch makes me think specific component failure…Starter maybe? (I assume it is a capacitor that kicks in only for a sec at the beginning like a pump motor would…ill check into it in a bit…)
If something intermittent is shorting or whatever i would not see it unless it is still engaged with no power… i think…

0_o

Baasp or baasr. I think one is male and the other female.

I honestly have never taken a digital ballast to troubleshooting. I always used magnetic.

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Nevermind.
The darn thing has that tar goo in it to stop repairs.
Ill toss one of the new fuses in it to check on Monday but it is probably gonna get put aside for a mini, entertainment center mounted, file server / Security NVR.

Thanks for the help.

0_o

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