I have a 1000w Agromax from like 2008 with maybe a month of use on it.
It blew a fuse (250v 15amp ceramic) and i swapped it with a fuse from my new ballast (another new 1000w ballast with same 250v 15amp rating and same size but not ceramic.) it and blew instantly.
What do i do to troubleshoot this (or at least know if its not worth my time right now?)
I have a klein multi-meter so i am able to open it and test components. (with guidance)
Or did this fuse not being ceramic really matter THAT much? and i should just wait for the pack i ordered to show?
There’s a thread called let’s talk diy lights that this question would get an answer in quickly. And some incredibly educated people on the subject. @dbrn32
First thing I would do is double check the fuses to manufacturers specification. It may have to be a time delay or “slow blow” fuse to deal with inrush current.
If everything is good there, I would think an instantaneously trip condition would be a short or ground in circuit between ballast and bulb socket.
Is there somthing i can do to check it while i wait for extra fuses?
i.e check between the ballast side of the fusible link and check the socket plug for connectivity (or lack of) or a short between two spots that should or should not be there i can check?
Something i can play with to better understand what im playing with?
I suppose it’s possible, can you see anything wrong with the bulb? Have you double checked the input and output specs of ballast to make sure it’s compatible with what you’re using?
1000w dimmable ballast (that i always use on 100%)
The bulbs are both fine… i have been switching the two hoods back and forth to the good ballast.
I did see a…(dont know what to call it) quaking… in the light on that ballast a day before it stopped…like a change in color over and over very quick…
No short on the housing between (BSFL) ballast side of fusible link .
I have current between BSFL and Socket outlet (left side) No other combination of points have conductivity)
My guess is this is all normal witch makes me think specific component failure…Starter maybe? (I assume it is a capacitor that kicks in only for a sec at the beginning like a pump motor would…ill check into it in a bit…)
If something intermittent is shorting or whatever i would not see it unless it is still engaged with no power… i think…
Nevermind.
The darn thing has that tar goo in it to stop repairs.
Ill toss one of the new fuses in it to check on Monday but it is probably gonna get put aside for a mini, entertainment center mounted, file server / Security NVR.