So I’ve put in my order for custom strips. Also 1.5" heatsink so they can be ran at 1900ma. What would be the best drivers for say 8,10, and 12 of these strips respectively.
If figuring forward voltage at 28vdc, you’re not going to get 10-12 of them series. Maybe 8-9 tops depending on what is available in current you want to run. You could do 10-12 in parallel on cv driver, but I usually don’t do them that way. I would do with 2 drivers and wire in series for that many.
Yes. I did this to have a little more of the flowering spectrum to promote better bud density. Also wanted to be able to run the lights at higher ma notice the 1.5" heatsink on the 1" strip. Third the photoboost is always out of freaking stock lol. Figured I’d help myself and others.
So just my observation.
For a “tent” grow having a 4x4 space being lit by a 4x4 light is asking for problems. Smashing your plants against the walls will cause air circulation loss with heat/mold manifestation.
Turning my lights 90 degrees and pulling the Quantum Board 240w out makes a better fitting plant.
I just found a store near my house that sells these 20w leds at around 9 usd.
I was wondering if its worth a try, because i was thinking about getting some to assist my main led lights?
Efficiency wouldn’t be too important because im buying some HLG’s next year, so it’s just to have something cheap to flower soon
4pcs 192+8 strip in series, it can be fit for HLG-480H-C1750. This is what’s reccommended by my manufacturer. But they also claim lights have better ppfd at 1400ma. I believed higher ma meant more penetration. What’s your take on this? I’ve already began order process of 120 strips I hope it all works out.
If I ordered heatsinks 1" wide but .78" tall 50% more cooling fin than heatsinkusa 1" product and sold at a price of $20 each. Would you say it was worth it? I’m trying to justify buying 100 @ 16 each or $1600 but don’t want to be stuck with a bunch of them and using only 32.
Probably, just keep in mind you getting what you’re paying for. You may be better off just saving your money for better lights. But I’m sure they would help a little.
Don’t buy into ppfd too much, it’s a number that’s easily manipulated into looking like more than it really is. Radiometric light output is measured in ppf, each strip will have higher ppf at 1750ma than at 1400ma. But the lower current will be more efficient (ppf per watt) and run cooler. If I was building with them I may even go as low as 1050 or 700ma.
The heatsink USA is still half the price, and will do plenty good enough. Especially if you run at lower current like suggested above.
Cost per gram can be measured in other ways too, and weighing one metric over another is subjective and valid. For example, I might want to maximize output (buds/potency) per day, rather than gram per dollar; I could be in a less than legal area, or maybe I just don’t want to be tethered to a grow constantly. Everyone has their own constraints, and those should dictate how builds are optimized, IMHO.
Hello
thanks for your great helps. I use four LED bubble lamps(not full spectrum),two lamp 1800Lm 6500K and two 1700Lm 3000K(normal LED for home use and etc) but my plants are too short with dark green leaves.
What’s wrong?
my grow box is 30 cm width 50 cm length and 100 cm height
Probably not enough light, dark green leaves could be a number of things too. Maybe nitrogen toxicity? You should start a new topic and post pictures, lots of us will take a look.
If you run 1750ma driver and 1400ma driver at same output current then electrical efficiency will be the same. But you can fit more strips on hlg-240h-c1400 than you can hlg-240h-c1750. An increase in output current isn’t going to increase light penetration much, if at all. But more leds will (coverage=penetration), which supports running more at lower current too.
Imo, it seems kinda silly to build out a Cadillac led module and then beat on them like a yugo. This is why you don’t really see any of the manufacturers running their stuff at max current. To put into perspective, you could have same boards made with lm561c and drop the current some and get exactly the same performance or better than the lm301b. And probably save some money doing so. It was only like a 5.8% increase in radiometric efficacy from 561c to 301b. The overall performance of your light rests heavily on these details, and not so much the name associated with the parts you’re using.
