Let's talk DIY lights

It will run any of the 288 boards or any other 54ish volt led. Just need to make sure there is enough leds to load the driver properly.

The hlg-600 appears to people who like to see watts. The hlg-480h-c2100a is the driver that’s included on the hlg-550, which is their flagship light. It’s like I told you when you were buying them, bigger isn’t always better. The performance of the boards seems good at around 2100ma mark. The hlg-600h-54 runs the boards +/-2800ma

What are you saying here? All meanwell hlg series drivers have 7 year warranty. I understand that doesn’t mean they will all last 7 years, but I’m not sure where the 3 years and 5 years come in?

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just wanted to say your a legend for helping everyone out, like always… i really wish i was building lights… :slightly_smiling_face:

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I didn’t know about the 7 year warranty, I called hlg and asked him why they sending out the 1750’s for their two board kits, and we are hooking them up 2100 and that was what he told me. I don’t know why he said 5. But I was sure hung up on that, now I understand alot better why we want the higher ma.
It’s like a give and take situation, even thought the efficacy goes down a smidgen the lumens go up and total output goes up. My thing was just that it shortens the driver a bit but the total result is worth it. So it is better to run them on the 2100 instead of the 1750. My question is this now, I have 4 pucks rapid and they recommend the 1750 for those 4, could have I put them on the 320h - 2100 also? I think right now probably getting 70 watts per puck, I could get 100 per puck on the 2100? just wondering for short answer without going all thru the tech stuff.

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Ok thank you just making sure before i put the order in i trust ya 2nd guessing myself if anything. The hlg 550 thing makes sense, plus alot of companys are trying to make that extra buck so putting a bigger more exspensive driver then you need to raise costs.

Order for driver is now in also

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Driver should make full life at rated output current. The board life may change a bit though.

One of the issues you’re going to run into changing up leds is different limitations within the leds. A 288 board is 54v design with max current of 3amps. A logic puck is 48v design and I believe max current is 2amps. So the currents need to be applied differently. Also worth noting that a 288 board is more than 4x the size of a logic puck. So a 100 watt 288 board will disperse heat a lot better than a logic puck.

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Wow, thats nuts when you price it out.
4 pucks cost me -$366.00 with a 45.00 off coupon code. (pin heat sinks and pads also) Then I realized if I bought one of their frames would be better than making one so that cost $45.00, so I have around $411.00 (and that don’t include the 99 dollar driver) in that 4 banger that is equal to One hlg 288 board.
So I bought a double 288 kit with heat sink from hlg which is equal to two of those 4 bangers?
That cost only $195.00 plus 70 for the driver. I don’t think I will be buying any more of those chilled logic pucks.

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No I meant 4x the physical size. So if you ran both at 100 watts the displacement of heat is over much bigger area with a 288 than logic board.

I would say you need to look at lights in terms of light output when comparing price. As in how much per umol. I think the hlg packages are still a little cheaper. But you have to remember that r-spec boards didn’t come until after logic boards too.

You have 4 pucks on which driver? Against essentially an hlg-260 kit?

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I wanna get a 100 Ohm potentiometer for that 480 correct? Just not sure if i need a 50 or 100 :fearful:

If you get driver ending in B you will need 100k ohm pot. The ones ending in A have dimmer built in.

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I’m running those 4 pucks on the 1750 milliamp. And I am thinking I should be running them on the 2100 to get more overall output.

Oh crap Dang it I just seen another mistake I made. I put that triple from hlg on a 1750 ma also. change that to the 2100 also for more overall output?

I don’t believe the earlier models were rated for current that high

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Well I got these right around the time your wife is having a baby and I didn’t want to bother you cuz I knew you were busy so I went with what they said. I know I can run the three HLG’s on the 320h-2100ma I might do that. And use that 1750 as a spare driver. There is no heat at all coming out of the driver or those pucks hardly at all on logic pucks the1750 ma driver. Which leads me to believe I could go higher and get more lumens.total output.

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Gotcha, I thought you had them for a while. If they are v3 pucks I think you could run them hotter if you want to.

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First part of the fun has arrived everything should be here by monday, framming got delivered to shop today.
@dbrn32 do u happen to know how far from the end of the qb288s it will cover using in my 4x4 tent plan an doing a frame something like this with the boards in corners
Thats just a rough outlay before i cut to size needed after i get boards and slates.
I guess question im asking would be how far from the wall should i leave each board.

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@dbrn32 I’m co-growing in a 5x5x80 tent. He bought 260 watt v1 from hlg for the current price of 279. He’s very very happy about his V1 and so am I since is our 1st indoor grow. I’m looking at adding the 260 v2 rspec for 349. My question is the v2 worth the extra 70? What is costing me the additional 70 I see the rspec is part of it. Eventually he’s going to buy the 3rd for the tent.
Thanks in advance. Jan 1 Illinois legal.

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Im not dbrn, but this is my take. LED boards are like computers. The minute you buy it it is already old technology. Best to buy the latest and greatest. I just got some r spec boards but have not set up yet.

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So true. Thanks for the insight happy growing

I run rspecs for veg and flower they were bought for flower only as the have a strip of 660nm which spikes the red spectrum