Sounds great!! I have spent a fair amount on a makeshift grow room, and am learning a LOT of the “dont’s” after already making some mistakes. I read in the grow calendar some of the plant diseases and such, and have noticed my two SS plants tops are starting to turn a dark blueish purple on the larger leaves. I read this as a symptom, but couldn’t find a symptom of what? Soil medium, metal halide bulb 12 hrs. on, 12 off, great airflow over uncrowded plants, 60% highest humidity at night, <30% when light is on. So far almost everything seems perfect on my plants, which HAS to be too good to be true, as I have watered with potentially contaminated rain water (harvested from roof into 50 gal. tank). I have been using fish mix and bio bloom for about 2 weeks, and HAD mulch on the floor of the grow room which could also have exposed plants to some bad stuff. Still yet, plants seem okay, and flowering has started just days ago. HELP??!!?? Or suggestions to control my environment better? I have been doing SO much reading, and this is my very first grow.
@Hagster
Pictures help
The change of color is in normal if your temperatures are low enough ideal day time between 70° and 80° in at night time if you get down into the 50° to 60° Range they can make them turn different colors are you pH in your water by chance if you could post a few pictures so that would also help
Strain; 1-WW, 2-GL, 1-SS, 3-Sativa seeds from friend (last year’s homegrown)
Soil in pots-yes
System type? outdoor grow room
PH of runoff or solution in reservoir? Never tested, although have testing equip.
What is strength of nutrient mix? Never tested, although have testing equip.( as directed, fish mix & bio bloom)
Indoor or Outdoor - Outdoor Grow Room
Light system, size? Apollo GLKGW19 (600w metal halide or high-pressure sodium)
Temps; Day-86-95, Night-68-75
Humidity; Day-30-50%, Night-40-65%
Ventilation system; Yes-4" hose suction fan, oscillating 12" fan on plants, (more or less open air, however)
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier - N/A
Co2; No
I see a ph swing on those leafs.
Temps are high in the day.
You really need to ph water and use a digital ph meter.
Also you need to flush before that ph problem becomes something worse.
IMO the two most important things to get right to have healthy successful grow is lighting and PH.
Not enough light and you get low yield.
Wrong PH and you have a unhealthy plant and get low yield.
86-95 is really hot for a plant. I had that problem with my room as well. You may need an a/c to help lower it. Bowls of ice behind a fan helps too but it’s a total pain to be replacing the ice constantly.
Being a grow-virgin, I’m not sure what is meant by “flush”. PLEASE explain!! =) Also, am I correct in that ph should be a 7.0 ? Thanks SO much for the help. Any concern for the small dots on the few leaves, or is this a result of the ph swing you were describing? Again…THANKS!!
I THINK my lighting is good, however my metal halide is said to be for “pre-flowering” due to the UV spectrum it puts out. At what point do I switch to the high pressure sodium…recommended for the uv spectrum during flowering. Do I switch when the plant first starts, or after they are “full”. Thanks SO much for the feedback. As mentioned, my very first grow. I’m a badly disabled coal miner, and the yield is in place of opiate pain medicine (which I discontinued after my 6th surgery), so I’m hoping for a healthy successful grow.
A flush is when you warsh out the extra salts that build up in the soil.
Growing in soil I ph at 6.5
Coco ph at 6.0
Hydo ??? That’s not my department just learning soil and coco.
As for the dots as long as they don’t change colors your good just a ph swing.
Just did a ph test on my nutrient solution, and a TDS. ph of the solution was 5.86, tds was 701 ppm at 75* f. To flush, do I simply “rinse” soil with clean water? Also, how do I raise the ph of my solution?? Do I need to test the soil ph to obtain 6.5?? Assuming it isn’t correct, what raises or lowers ph in soil? I know this is alot of questions, but as I learn it, I won’t have to ask again, and then maybe…as you are doing, I can pass on my expertise to other beginners when I get promoted to “novice”. =) I appreciate the patience!!
Water and nutes must be given at ph 6.5 what comes out the bottom of the pot is runoff. Once you mix nutes check ph and adjust. To ajust you need Ph up or Ph down
A flush could be just water or a chemical flush. There are a bunch of companies that make a flush I would use the same as the nutes I’m useing … Fox farm is mine but many others out there. Utube has ton of videos on all of this.
Some questions for you.
How big is your grow area that the 600watt light has to cover?
What size pots are your plants in?
Are you sure they are flowering? Maybe its my eyes, but I don’t see it in the photos you posted.
How long have you been on a 12/12 light schedule?
This is what you need to adjust you water PH.
https://www.amazon.com/Down-Control-Test-Kit-Hydroponics/dp/B00P1MQWK4/ref=sr_1_1?tag=greenrel-20
Was that 5.86 PH and 701 PPM going in? Or was that at runoff?
I water at a 6.0 and the runoff usually comes out at 6.5. Works well for me. 6.5 (runoff) in soil is key. Too high or too low will lockout nutrients from your plant causing deficiencies. 7.0 is neutral but plants seem to like it more on the acidic side.
I would have responded sooner Rugar, but as a beginner to forum (and growing), I was limited on my responses in 24 hrs. My grow area is 3ft. by 3ft., unlimited height. Light is about 2-1/2 ft. above plants. On ILGM’s grow schedule for July, they offered info. about sexing the plants. Since mine were AF seeds, I already know they’re female, but the photos stated that flowering begins when there are two strands in the creases of the fan leaves, outside green and inside pure white. This has taken place on all plants, and the tops are super “congested” now. Has flowering begun?? I started them on 12/12 when this occurred…maybe a week to 10 days ago. (Did I jump the gun on 12/12?? ) Pots range from 3 to 4-1/2 gallon. Also, didn’t know to test runoff until this forum started today, so I hadn’t tested runoff ph until this morning. Results after calibrating my tester twice, was that my soil runoff is 6.51…PERFECT and LUCKY!! =) Since my water with fish and biobloom is 5.86 PH and 701 PPM going in, do I need to increase the PH of my solution?? Also, how many PPM is good before and after flowering? I can’t tell you enough how appreciative I am of your advice Rugar, and look forward to your response. All of you pro’s have SO much wisdom to offer, and I have spent HOURS yesterday evening reading a variety of topics, and am learning SO much. I hope I can still produce a healthy productive grow, as I mentioned this being for sleepless nights, and a pain medicine substitute for a permanent disability. (Obviously I enjoy it too, but for the first time it’s medicinal as well as recreational !!) So, my as to original question about the deep blue colored leaves, mostly on my two SS plants, this is
normal? Here are photos of my tops. When do I switch to 12/12, and when do I switch to high pressure sodium bulb?
@Hagster If you can take a picture of the entire plant how big is she you can put it in the flower practically at any time on a 12 on 12 off light schedule just depends how much yield you want and room you have if you plan on finishing in the four and a half gallon pots I wouldn’t let them get too big otherwise they will get root bound
WOW that’s great advice Hog! I was expecting my pots were maybe too BIG, so obviously I was WAY wrong! I will continue the 12/12 (which I started a week ago) so as not to crowd the roots. Plants are averaging 32", but my Gold Leaf is almost 40". Yield isn’t quite as important to me this time, since this is my first grow. More concerned with plant health and final quality. Thanks for the advice HCHGC. I did some adjusting in my outdoor room, and channeled some cool air from under the floor through a filter to avoid fungus or mildew. Also glad to see the chart you sent. Very good to know. I knew NONE of this stuff a week ago, so I guess I’m really fortunate to have such a healthy grow as of yet. ILGM’s seeds must be TOP quality for me to not have more problems than I do. Can someone tell me when to switch to my High Pressure Sodium lamp? (As a reminder, I have the 600w Apollo system.)
Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency.
Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions, as well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium
Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.
Soil
Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.
Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.
Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.
Chemical
Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums
Organic
Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)
Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.
Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.
Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.
Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
Will
GARIGAN…you are a LIFE-Saver!!! A suggestion was made that I had a PH issue. After learning the correct way to test soil PH, I became CERTAIN my runoff PH is a perfect 6.51. I would have never had any idea I had a Phosphorus deficiency, or any other specific nutrient issue. The article you provided is a MUST READ for all beginners!!! My plants ALL have tell-tale signs of the phosphorus deficiency, and you couldn’t have caught it for me at a better time, as my ladies are just barely starting to flower. This information is invaluable, and it’s nice to know VIP Moderators read beginner issues to offer support. From start to finish, I have relied on advice from ILGM, including how to set up my grow room, seed choices, germination until present, and all do’s and don’ts in-between. I can’t believe all of you in the forum network offer so much help out of pure-and-simple kindness, and your love of the grow. What an amazing and exciting new world I’ve entered!!! =) =) =) =) =)