Last three batched of seedlings sprout first set of true leaves turn yellow and die

So I planted two seeds last month. They sprouted fine, grew to about an inch with the first set of true leaves, stopped growing, turned yellow and died. I started one seed afterwards as I wanted to get a harvest in before end of May. Same thing happened. Next attempt I started two and am at the same situation. Below is info and pictures.

What strain, ILGM Grand Daddy Purple Photoperiod
-Age of plant 10 days from in ground
-Method: FFHF soil
-Vessels: Dixie cups with holes in bottom for drainage
-PH of Water, pH of water 6.8,
-PPM/TDS or EC DI water with calmag added 440 ppm on 700 scale
-Method used to measure pH and TDS Apera EC&pH 60
-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, indoor 2.3 X2.3X 5 feet mars hydro
-Light system LED, SF-2000 at 200 PPFD using photon app
-Actual wattage draw of lights 53 from wall
-Current Light Schedule 18 on/ 6off
-Temps; Day averages 72-74 day Night 68-69
-Humidity; Day,74 percent constant as i have a humidifier in tent
-Ventilation system AC Infinity four inch set to keep humidity at 74%. Is always pushing out air as humidifier is on inside tent.
This is my third attempt at photos. Should i just go back to Autos?
I will attempt to attach a picture


They look good in the picture
At this point I would have them covered in some type of dome
This way it’s nice and humid as above 80*F
If you can cut a 2 liter bottle in half and spray the inside of the bottle with RO or distilled water only until they get a bit bigger
I usually do this for the first 10-14 days
Then once they start to grow gently water about an inch or so away from the stem and then day by day go from there
Your medium looks kind of dry also

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Seedlings don’t need nutrients at all. If in Happy Frog, it will be 4 to 6 weeks from your last transplant before any nutes are needed.

Contrary to popular belief, autos are not easier to grow than photos. They are more sensitive to nutes, it can be difficult to train them, they flower when they want, and they can be twitchy. I know some experienced growers that do well with autos, but there are a lot of cases where autos just aren’t productive.

Re the discoloration, give it some time to grow out of it. Chlorophyll can take time to set in on new growth. If it persists we can look at other things.

Everything else looks good.


Hey @Bullpup
Only thing I’d add would be to add some rooting components like GH Rapid Root or Botanicare Hydroguard for root development.
During the seedling stage we are waiting for the plant to establish a root system in order to feed your plants. Thus we subject the plants to high humidity and low light so the leaves do not suffer from lack of water and nutrients for the first weeks of life.

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These are three GDP photos on day 8. They were a little pale too. Difference is they are in coco and I have to feed them. I cover them with a dome until right about now. Once they have a good set of second leaves I know the roots are developing.


My reverse osmosis water is ph 7 I added the cal-mag so I could just pH down. I will just use RO water. Thank you

I was going to use the autos because my first grow using them was incredible. I am trying to use photos so I can use a scrog net in my tiny tent. Thank you

Thanks Any of them work better?

I used GH products for a while. They have a couple that worked well, Subsilture M and RapidStart, and would recommend both of these. I use GH RapidStart during the cloning/seedling stage then would go to Subculture M after week 2. Subculture M was hard to find about a year ago. So I started using Bontanicare Hydroguard and am very impressed with this product.
Here’s a GSC plant that I’m processing now that I used RapidStart and then Hydroguard on.

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I believe ur ph was to high u want ur ph between 6.0-6.5 is where you want it and it could be ur ocean Forest soil thats doing that to ur seedlings

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