I want to switch to organic

Nutrients
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The simplest route I have seen/helped @SmoknGranny develop, is as follows:

She used Ferti-loam garden soil. (Promix, Sunshine mix, peat with perlite and lime and 10% compost. These are all alternatives.)

To that she added Gypsum and then natures living soil concentrate. Mixed into the soil.

She pH watered adding 1 tsp Epson salt. Once they were 6 or so nodes, She would top dress with Coast of Maine Stonington blen.

When first Sex Pistols started showing, she top dressed 1 tbs each of Langbeinite, gypsum, Oyster flower, fish bone meal. Continued watering with 1 tsp Epson salt

Transition (2-3 wks) then topped same as above in week 1.

Week 4 the get another tbs gypsum and Langbeinite. Water with a quarter size dollop per gallon of Black strap molasses.

Week 5-6 maybe 7 strain dependent, she watered the molasses only. If the K def came on a lil bit too soon, she added 1/2 tsp of Pot Ash.

By week 7 the fade hits pretty good.
Then pH water the last bit before harvest.

22

Would it be better or more beneficial to add some pot ash when mixing the soil?
I know it can play with the ph a little, so caution should be utilized.

23

Ok, so Langbeinite is a slow release of 0-0-22 +22 S & +11 Mg. Best to be used with soil building and top dresses. Has a great K to Mg ratio avoiding nutrient lockouts due to excess.

It’s used in conjunction with potassium sulfate 0-0-50 +7.5 S, aka pot ash. The pot ash is water solvable for instant uptake.

You use the Lang in transition top dress
to boost the K, yes; but the main use it to allow for breakdown time to occur. That takes several weeks to slowly begin.

K is responsible for lots. Importantly, for how far the stomatas are able to open. This allows for increased CO2 uptake, and increased cellular respiration, to optimize sugar production during photosynthesis. Plants grow faster with increased potency. Also, but more importantly, it’s providing S to the improve terps.

During this time you have a steady release of Mg. This helps the plants deal with the increasing light levels of transition, boosting the chlorophyll molecules.

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It works in synergy with phosphorus, increasing uptake availability. Hence the fish bone meal in the top dress.

Transition will burn through much of the transition top dress. We wanna account for the breakdown time. Replacing what was lost for increased demand that starts in week 2-3

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See the uptake of P in wk2. The Ca wk2.3 following the Mg wk3.2 (shown above) that you will head off with the top dress.

Wk4. There should be enough residual P to carry you through but we need to break down more Ca Mg S & K to carry you through, but wear down in time for a fade. This route allows for this.

If the plants require more K boost (wk 6) for extra hungry or increased CO2 running; that’s pot ash time. Instant uptake for potency bump and added S powers them terps up.

Anyway. Tag me if you have questions. A guest just arrived. Goto go before a review and edit of what I just typed. :v:t3::dash:

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:face_with_symbols_over_mouth: it’s bugging me that I didn’t fully answer your question. I’ll be back to explain the ates and ites @Covertgrower

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What is your feeding routine with the shores of Maine soil and nutrients. Does it work for autoflowers. I’m burning my auto flowers with Fox Farm nutrients

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@Greenegreens

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You wont have a problem with Coast of Main. I was burning up my plants until this was recommended to me. It grows them nicely.

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Pot ash won’t affect soil pH. Niter does the Langbeinite. Yes, both contain sulfates, but are not to be confused with sulfites.

A Sulfate has been fully oxidized, carries a positively charged S, and contains an extra Oxygen. This makes it soluble fully in water for instant uptake by the plants.

Only elemental Sulfur will lower pH, over a sustained time. That’s because a negatively charged sulfite isn’t water soluble. It needs to be broken down/oxidized by hydrogen in the soil. That reaction lowers the soil pH.

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Hey thanks for that! That was enough information that I got a good jumpstart on some research, and got more answers from there, but couldn’t have gotten that far with out your response. Really appreciate it.

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Happy to help with whatever research you’re doing. I tried to simplify the organic chemistry down to a few short sentences. I use a lot of sulfates in my grows. The only sulfate you need to be concerned with is aluminum sulfate. It does rapidly decrease soil pH, but it’s not from the sulfate.

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That’s your 1st grow and it’s gargantuan??? How are you liking the Nature’s? I only heard of them yesterday via a blog I read. I read their entire site. Have you had to add any outside Nutrients to your crop? Other than like cal-mag maybe and/or the molasses tea they recommend? How far from harvest are you? Thanks - Karen

32

I’m currently day 38 flower, so 30 more days or so I think. Actually I’m using the autoflower formula for photo plants. I was going to start autos, but bad things happened, wife accidentally threw away seeds, yadda yadda, so yeah i switched to photos and had a big bag of auto formula.

So I emailed NLS and Richard responded right away that I could still use it for photos and gave me a plan for using it with teas and top dressing. I have given them teas once a week with, aloe, bamboo extract, and molasses. Also alternating thier soil revival and recharge, and have been using thier GFP for teas since flip.

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I don’t get all the Soil Revival and Recharge. Why do we need that stuff? Like what’s it for? The only note I wrote down was a question… “Soil Revival? What’s it’s purpose? Is it worth it? 1tsp gallon weekly.” Idk what the Recharge does either and have no notes on it. Haven’t a clue what the heck GFP is either. So yeah, I’m a big dummy but you’ll have that. - Karen

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There’s a lot out there. I’ve heard great things but never tried buildasoil craft blend.

I use Gaia Green organics and down to earth too. I also like using the different rock dusts, glacial and vocanic. I start my seedlings in 25/75 OF/HF and then from my solo cup i transplant into 1 gal with 50/50 OF/HP with some trace minerals and i start my watering cycles with Fish shit - Mammoth P and using recharge every 2 weeks when i can.

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@TboneCapone. BAS craft blend is good to go! 15 ingredients all pulverized into small particles for easier uptake. I use it for top dressing my living soil-and in the off-season I dump a little in my compost.
When you get a chance-try it out.

@ShureGreen Recharge is for folks that reuse their soil. Since I am ‘no-till’ and I do not yank the rootball out of the soil at the end of the cycle.I have tried a version-Reamend by Build a soil-through the whole growth cycle. During flowering I use a dry fert boost. I used to alternate years/seasons. One year Reamend, the next-Craft Blend. And so on.
But since I am living soil-the applications are top dress. Pure and simple. Oh, and for every application of dry-ferts,you should incorporate earthworm castings or compost to prevent clumps of ferts in your soil. Your feeder roots will go to the top and meet/eat the top dressing.
After a week or two of the top feed application-I gently massage the top of the soil to see if the root mass has extended through the layer I just fed. Then I repeat process.
Hope this helps👍
SL out

36

Wow! I am getting some great info to continue my research. I flipping my currents yesterday so only have a couple months to figure put what I’m going to do with #2. And now I am hit with the RH in my tent. I have a dehumidifier in my basement but I also have all my eBay stock down there and really can’t spare it. Ima deal with that tomorrow. I guess once you get past your 1st grow you should pretty much have anything and everything you’ll need equipment-wise. Lol! Then it gets cheaper from there. I Hope. Thanks y’all. You’re all great. Yay Y’all!!!

37

Recharge and TPS Billions are products that create more microbes in the soil which are vital for the plants to be able to assimilate the fertilizers easier and more abundantly. It creates a healthy rhizosphere for the roots to feed off of. The microbes eat the fertilizers and cast out eaven better fertilizer for the roots. Molasses feeds said microbes.

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I like using liquid kelp for my soil with the molasses and compost tea during veg.

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@Reed71 do you add the kelp to your tea and aerate?

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@ChittyChittyBangin yes aerate over night