Many have seen this set-up before… But here we go again…
Started seeds one month prior to moving to the grow tent
Usually like growing in the fall months because it’s easier to add a bit of heat to a grow tent vs trying to cool the grow tent…
Many have seen this set-up before… But here we go again…
Started seeds one month prior to moving to the grow tent
Usually like growing in the fall months because it’s easier to add a bit of heat to a grow tent vs trying to cool the grow tent…
Very nice Grow Bro, what’s your fertigation interval
Diggin the setup
Nice looking serup.
Water Details…
Water reservoir used here will hold up to 200 liters. (Covered, light proof, large plastic garbage can) Larger volume of water keeps EC & pH more stable. Usually do a 100L fill in the reservoir. Unless on travel then fill to 200L and then the system is good on auto water for 10-14 days easy. Water reservoir is outside growing tent. Stays naturally at 60-65F. :>
Use 2 minutes on / 28 off during day - 36 cycles per day - (Light On 18h on / 6h off veg stage. Then 24 cycles with 12h on /12h / off in flower stage). No watering with light off. I’m sure many other watering schedules will work. But it’s been successful for 5+ grows.
Keeping the pH in the 5.7-6.3 range using a good quality pH meter, with simple spa pH/bromine test kit as a back-up / quick test.
Building the light intensity from 500 PPFD for youngsters … To 1100 PPFD (Full LED light output) in veg /flower.
Same with the EC, building from 500 To 2100. Measure using a good quality EC meter. The trick is less is more with nutrients. Girls will tell you if it’s too much early on with “Burned” tips of leaves. Not enough, yellowing of leaves…. If you stay with suggested supplier nutrient levels. ml/L. Things will work 99.99% of the time. Check pH & EC every few days.
Have also found a single 1” spa “Bromine” tablet placed in the water reservoir (100L+). Keeps the water super clean/clear…. It dissolves very, very slowly. (Use partial tables for smaller reservoirs) Plants don’t seem to mind “Bromine”. (See web for info). While we all know that plant in general, HATE chlorine.
Other hints. Light proof reservoir. Use a UV-C aquarium light (10-15W versions) in the reservoir kill off any bacteria growth. Cycle 1h on / 5h off. Air bubbler in reservoir, “On” during “Day”… Off during “Night” so the bromine levels can rise and kill things off in water reservoir.
Experience Trick…. Air bubbler turned back on 1 hr. before “Day” so bromine levels can be lowered before first water cycle…
Use Spa bromine test kit to monitor Bromine levels. Bromine tests measures about 1-2ppm … very low. Add water to keep same reservoir level/ quantity as required, Drain, rinse, refill water reservoir every 2-3 weeks. Use 100um standard household 10” filter with water going to watering rings to keep small holes in watering rings from getting plugged… Don’t let water get warm…. Enhances bacteria growth. But UV-C and bromine keeps things pretty much under control…
When u say ec of 500 to 2100, is that microsiemens? Or do you mean a tds of 500 to 2100 ppm
Darn… !! Sorry… I forgot to add the units on the EC!.. The measurements are in microsiemens…
The meter show can read in ppm, u/S(microsiemens). or m/S ( millisiemens). 1000u/S = 1m/S
Also… Should add its important to rinse of the testing tips with clean water and you do need to clean the measurement tips from time to time… Also if you have a small water reservoir, the EC can swing very high if the as the water level drops.