How to use the Marijuana Booster Nutrient System

We’ve been receiving multiple inquiry’s about how to use the Marijuana Booster so here’s an online guide on how to use the Marijuana Booster Nutrient System :slight_smile:

The booster has a ratio of 1:1000. So 1ml is enough for 1 liter of water. 0.033 oz is enough for 33 oz of water.

The cap is approximately 10ml or 0.33 oz making one bottle cap enough for 10 liters or 2.64 gallons. We advise using 10ml as a standard throughout the lifespan of your plants. However in a Hydro situation you can double or even triple the amount of booster you use due to the lack of soil.

Also when slowly building up the booster you should be able to go up to 20ml per 10 liters (0.66 oz to 2.64 gallons). Do pay close attention to your plants. If you use more booster and your plants seem to be experiencing nutrient burn, they probably are :wink: Easy to solve though! Just go down to the recommended amount of 10ml (0.33 oz) and slowly build up again, not exceeding the previous mark where it went wrong. (Personally I’m at 15ml per 10 liters (0.50 oz to 2.64 gallons) which for my plants seems to be the maximum).

Use the Grow Booster during the veg period up into the first 2 weeks of flowering. The 2nd week of flowering you should use the Grow and the Bud (Flower) booster 50/50 to make the transition to the Bud Booster easier for your precious plants. Then use the flower booster for 3 more weeks.

When transitioning to the THC (Mass) Booster you’ll need to pay close attention. During week 5 or week 6 of flowering start using the Bud Booster and the THC Booster 50/50 to make the transition easier. You can also choose the safe route and do a 50/50 mix during both week 5 and 6.

The reason why you need to pay close attention is because some strains need longer to flower than others. Also the wrong conditions can cause a plant to flower slower.

In week 9 you’ll need to flush the soil to prepare for harvest.

I hope this helps :slight_smile: If you want to know more about the marijuana booster check out the commercial page here: or check out the booster in the webshop here:




Great info Claire! :smiley: This will help us all clarify the use of the 3 Boosters. Thank You! I already have my theory worke dout. Peace, lw

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I think what Claire is saying about paying attention; If you are growing Sativa, your veg period may be longer, but, definitely your bloom period is longer.

I have come up with this.
For veg use the prescribed dose, if you are planning a long vegetative to bloom transition (Sativa), you could adjust from 100% grow to 75/25% a week or 2 before transition mix of 50.50%

Mow that we are 2 weeks into bloom phase, we can can use bloom booster. Now; Again we can transition slower and through an extra adjustment in our mix; If, we are growing “sativa” pheno, that requires longer finishing period.

Sounds like a tsp-.(4ml) - 1/2-Tbs(7ml) per gallon is good to go!

Hope this help. :mrgreen:

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Good update! You can vary a lot using the booster :slight_smile:

so you just use this and nothing else added? I’ve been using maxibloom, liquid karma, sweet cutris, root xploerer and cal-mag during veg stage and during flower I added bud blood and big bud and bloom blastic… :slight_smile: too much?

Yes; You can use just the Booster. However; A lot of growers add CO2 as well. You can always tweak a formula once you are used to the performance.

I hope you only use Bud Blood once; At transition. That is the only week you are supposed to use it.

I have been trying to figure this one out for awhile now and WoW here it is explained in full so even I can understand…lol
Thank you so much.


The K.I.S.S. method :smiley: The less you add; Or, do; The more you learn. Peace

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Just received my nutrients. I notice the watering schedule that I received in an email and the one posted here are different in the transition mls.Mine show 10-5 where this one shows 5-5. Also the schedule shows 1.2 EC which would be 600ppm for me. When I mis 4ml grow to 1 gallon it comes out to 111ppm. 4ml bud booster in 1 gal comes out to 190ppm. My question is do I just use the schedule and use the mls or should I try and get ppm up to 600/EC1.2?

Thank you

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Not sure what to tell you. I will do a check later on today or tomorrow with a fresh batch. Are you sure your meter is correct? Just asking.

I have a seedling ready to go. I will mix some booster tomorrow.

Thanks for bringing this up. lw

Had the same question about my meter so went and purchased another one. TDS4 + Temp. Both are reading the same. Also I am using RO water so ppm is 0 - 14 at start. Thanks for testing. Will be doing more here so will let you know.

Found out that the container I was using to measure water was off a bit. Did a test again and came up with this:
All measurments are 1mL/1Gal

RO water pH 6.7 ppm 18
Grow Booster - 1mL/1Gal pH 6.1 ppm 49
4mL/1 Gal = 196 ppm

RO water pH 6.7 ppm 13
Flower Booster - 1mL/1Gal pH 4.2 ppm 70
4mL/1 Gal = 280 ppm

RO water pH 6.8 ppm 14
Mass Booster - 1mL/1Gal pH 5.8 ppm 76
4mL/1 Gal = 304 ppm

Was just curious and thought there might be some out there that use ppm. Hope this helps a bit.


I use only RAIN WATER and every test I do on a new rain water is 5.5 when I add flower booster I have to use ph up otherwise I just water with 5.5 rain water helps keep the ph in soil around 6.0 .6.5


Rain water is the magic trick , I read that coffee grinds that’s been dripped works too .

When plants are well into the veg stage and growing nicely do you use fertilizer solution exclusively for watering or just once a week and keep them moist with plain water as needed between weekly feedings?

You fertilize as needed, not necessarily with every watering. It’s all about the nutrient concentration building up in your root zone, the EC/TDS/PPM. Keep an eye on it regardless of type of grow and you should be golden.

I only have one question: when it says “use nutrient mix within 3 days” What it does means? 3 days on the row? like Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday. Thanks for the help.


Most nutrient mixes when mixed with water say to use within 3 days more or less. This is more kind of a expiration date for the mix. More like a food product when opened says use withing so many days after opening. It is a recommendation and sometimes things can be used after a longer period, depending on how the mixture is stored. But nutrients sitting in stagnant water for any long period of time could be asking for trouble if using a very old mixture like that on your plants. Even “dry powder chemical” nutrient mixes will have the same suggestion to use in a short period after mixing with water.

hope this helps,


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Thanks MacGyverStoner! Can I make another question: how many times I should use the mix on the week? Just one time and then water? Or should be more? Or Is there a rule for nutrient my plant like how many times a week? Sorry, I’m new in this so I want to do it correctly.

BTW, I am assuming you are talking about growing in what most people consider soil, but some might be using soil-less media and not even realize the difference. For the most part, feeding and watering the plant are the same and so I’m not really going to go into the exact differences here at this time. You might be able to find my other many comments on the subject spread around the forum on some ideas and descriptions about the differences. And even though I started in soil like almost everyone does, I have more hands on experience with a very specific type of hydro DWC, or deep water culture. And so, often, I like to let @latewood address many of the more varied soil growing techniques and additives and such, as he has nearly a lifetime of hands on experience in the horticultural industry. As I tagged him to this convo, I’m sure he can add anything he feels might be left out or could be expanded upon.

There are many different techniques to feeding and watering in soil or soil-less media. The end result is basically the same. Some people do not really measure what is building up in the soil and use a technique to relatively reliably prevent anything from getting too far from ideal.

I’m going to describe these two versions of probably the most common technique, and most people are already using one of these and don’t even realize that this is often what it is called. And often a minor variation of these that prevents over feeding – like using water only for certain intervals between feedings – are why you can get away with growing in soil and not necessarily checking the pH or TDS.

This is commonly called Drain To Waste, and it is also a sort of manual ‘Flood and Drain’ or even ‘Eb and Flow’, terms you might hear often in cannabis growing, especially in hydroponics. I should mention there is finer point, at least when it comes to hydroponics, with “Drain To Waste” as compared to “Flood and drain also known as Eb and Flow”, and in hydroponics, the “drain” could return to a aerated reservoir and recirculated through the growing media in an “eb and flow” or “flood and drain” manner.

Remember, the end result achieved is basically the same. This desired result is a stable pH and a stable mixture of balanced and properly concentrated dosage of nutrients (balanced and proper dosage for the period of growth the plant is in, i.e. veg vs. flower), and that this balance is available to the roots, regardless of whether it is in soil or hydro. Also, a point to note, even though soil-less media is used generally the same as soil, it is technically a form of hydroponics.

In general, Drain To Waste, is the same way you water a house plant. You pour in the top of the potted container until some comes out the holes in the bottom of the container, and you throw away what settles in the saucer at the bottom.

In both methods, the plant is only watered, or fed, when the soil in the pot is nearly totally dried out as determined by comparing the weight of the container with soil saturated with water, and with totally dry soil, and then only watering again to saturation when the container feels very very light.

Now as far as the two different ways, one would involve closely monitoring what is building in the soil by continuously monitoring the EC/TDS/PPM and pH of the liquid in the saucer, also known as the “run-off”.

Ideal pH targets for soil are 6.5, and for hydro it is 5.8 and as these are targets, maybe as much as 0.5 above or below is not necessarily anything to worry about as long as they aren’t at the extremes for very long. Also, no need to micro manage just because it is off by only a small point, no need to adjust the pH until it is a lot closer to the extreme of 0.5 above or below ideal.

As far as EC/TDS/PPM numbers are concerned, recommendations can vary greatly, depending on style of grow, brand of nutrients and maybe even strain and can be as low as about EC 0.6 which equals 300 PPM in the USA standard conversion, to as high as maybe even EC 3.1 or nearly 1600 PPM. These numbers would be pretty much the same for soil or the pure water and nutrient mixture in hydro.

I personally like about an EC of 1.0 or 500 PPMs minimum with a healthy adult plant, and not much higher than about EC 1.5 or 750 PPM for hydro, at least in my DWC undercurrent system, maybe about EC 1.8 or 900 PPM max. For soil I might go a bit higher, but not by much. And certainly not higher than EC 2.5 or about 1250 PPM and it would need a good flush at the end, IMO, and this high would highly depend on the type of nutrients and the NPK values.

When monitored In this way, additional nutrients would only be added when the soil run-off drops below a certain level, say you are trying to maintain an average of about 900 PPMs in the soil, and only add nutrients when the run-off drops below 800, and so plain proper pH’ed water would be used in between until the run off was significantly lower than the target. In this case, you only water until enough run-off liquid is in the saucer to do your tests.

The other way DTW is done, is by mostly only feeding and watering at the same time, when the plant absolutely needs to be watered, as determined by weight as described above. But in this case, an amount of water and nutrients is mixed to the pre-determined EC/TDS/PPM, this amount of water and nutrient mix is maybe about one and a half times the volume of soil so that you pour the entire contents through the soil and should get at least 30% to maybe as much as 50% run-off, This will usually makes sure you never have too many nutrient salts staying and building up in your soil as the excessive run-through washes out as well as replaces nutrients. Some monitoring of the run-off would still be recommended to make sure nothing is getting too far off track in the soil as determined by measuring the run-off.

Usually too many alkali minerals like limescale calcium in hard water – possibly building up – that tends to not only throw off and raise your TDS, but also raises the pH. Too much biological decomposition in the soil can also cause a downward pH more often towards the acidic.

Of course in all methods, you want your EC/TDS/PPM to drop to near zero the last couple of weeks of flower.

Hope this helps,