am looking to connect 10 480w LED grow lights (SpiderFarm and Kingbrite bar lights) together to one power source, daisy chaining to a power sorce. They will be daisy chained to a dimmer controller, but that is not the power source. The following diagram gives an idea of how they should be connected. The problem is, I am trying to find out where to buy the rights parts. This link on Amazon gives an idea, but will they work? t-Connector
I need help from anybody who has done this before.
The next question is what timer would you recommend to control these lights? I can split it to more than one power source if required.
Welcome to the fourum, and it maybe a good thing that you joined up to ask that question.
You may want to redo that plan. A 15 amp 125 volt will only carry 1700 watts total, and load should be limited to 85% of the breakers size. So that brings it down to 1500 watts total. So you will need three 120 volt 15 amp circuits to power up 9 nine light’s. If I was asked to connect this for someone, I would use three power circuits, and connect each light to each timer. I would use the timers to stagger the startup of each light by a few minutes. This will avoid a high In rush of current on the breakers due to the driver. Have to go now, but will check back soon.
As far as those jumpers, that could only be used with the dimming portion. Not the power portion. Me being a electrician, i would just daisy them myself and control from one spot. U may find the right stuff to make it easier if your lights are setup for that tupe of dimming connection
Let me clarify my last post. If using 120 volt power supplies, I would use three circuits, and use three power strips one on each circuit, nine descent 3 prong timers three on each strip, and one timer per light. Most good timers will let you set the cycle time by 15 minutes. I like doing this but I only use three lights, and this allows me to cycle two of the lights off from 12 1/2 hours down to 14. I do not have to reduce the light intensity to reduce DLI during late flowering just reduce light duration.
Of course you would be better off using 240 volt as suggested before, as it would be more efficient. If your lights can be switched to 240 volt. But to do this correctly it may require a 240 volt 50 amp sub panel be installed close to the tent. A sub panel like one would run to a hot tub, with about 10 breaker spaces. A sub panel like that will give you 120 volt outputs and 240 volt outputs both, and you can use the 120 for controls and 240 for lighting power. source.
But we have only discussed lighting electric load so far. You will need more power supplies for fans, humidifiers, heaters, and dehumidifier.
There is lighting controllers that you can give a 240v feed and output seperate 120v outlets with different circuits all controlled with a 120v trigger. No need for a sub panel but that would be nice to lol. The light controllers are basically a big contactor with seperate 120 v circuits with standard 15a plug. But the options are endless. This type im referring to is nice because u only need a single trigger for the different circuits…1 timer in essence.
After thinking about this…there is alot of garbage out there for a fancy controller. Make sure you do your homework, and by all means please make sure anything u buy is uL listed and not made in china. If you get the controller as i am referring, make sure each outlet has its own breaker built in, some stuff out there just should not even be on market. Fire waiting to happen.
@Ickey@Poseidon1 Thank you all so much, this is exactly why I posted the question and you guys have been amazing. I do have a separate 100amp(I think, I’ll validate) subpanel dedicated to this grow area - I will get the info on it shortly, that may help. @Poseidon1 do you have any info/make/site on this controller you are talking about? Even on what I would search for to find it.
I do understand I will have to split power sources, max 2-3 lights per source, I was just hoping someone had a better answer out there! Again, I sincerely appreciate the help & I’ll clarify some power information shortly.
Clarification: I do have a separate 100amp subpanel dedicated to this grow area, the outlets are just about 20ft from the grow room. I may have to have an electrician create outlets closer…
A 100 amp panel would be great, and give you plenty of breaker spaces. What is the size of your planned grow room?.
Just a note on why I said that you may want to stagger the start up of each light on each circuit. The way I understand this is, when a LED light is first powered up. The driver needs to rapidly increase the current going to each LED chip simultaneously until it can create an electrical arch in each chip. Once this arch is established there is not as much current required to maintain the arch, and the driver will reduce the current. The arch is the actual light source. This much like starting an AC motor where there is 4x to 10x more current in rush at start up as compared to the running current. This why @dbrn32 ”I think I have right member”, recommends limiting LED loads to 50% of the breaker’s rating. This would be the best option, but on a limited power supplies staggering the start up would be a good second option.
It is actually a refrigerated trailer that I am growing in - it is absolutely perfect for a controlled environment, I’ve had great grows but just significantly upgraded my lighting. The growing space is 3’x36’ with a 1.5ft walkway on each side, well ventilated. The breakers are 20amp breakers.
I have a controller that can control the dimming/on/off via the daisy chain rj11. Will this be a factor? It has 3 channels, so I can probably stagger the on/off this way also.
Don’t think I can much help on your daisy chain question. Is the daisy chain for control only, and separate from the power source? What is the rated amp draw on your new lights for 120 volt and 240 volt?
Your welcome. Just google grow light controller. They stagger the on rate to minimize in rush as stated. Never load a breaker to more then 80% ampacity. It is code! So not more then 16a on a 20a breaker.
Im sure your getting overwhelmed with the info. There is alot of ways to do this, i thought controller be easier for someone without a strong electrical background.
Look at drivers provided and then download data sheet. The data sheet will tell you how many fixtures can be on a single circuit to compensate for the inrush current of driver.
If you want all lights powered from a single source you will no doubt need something like a titan controller. These act as a soft start to mitigate inrush current issues. As noted above they can be purchased with an internal timer or external trigger circuit to plug a standard 120v timer into. The external trigger model is usually preferred because a failed timer can simply be replaced for $10 as opposed to sending your controller out for repair.
In my world, i never seen inrush issues as long as your not loaded above 80% of breaker rating, and proper sized wiring for voltage drop and current. Ive installed these on a giant scale powering entire stadiums. Ive done some 500 hp rated soft starts for pumps…now that is a different level of inrush there holy cow. 600a at 480 3phase. Throw something like that in “bypass” you can drop the grid lol
Most of the time engineers take necessary steps to avoid issues in design. I have seen it trying to run 4 250 watt meanwell hlg’s on a 15 amp circuit in my home. It would do 3 no problem and 4 if plugged last in later than the others. But would create instantaneous trip if i tried to fire all 4 simultaneously. Full load amps was 2.5a per driver.
No kidding. So 10 amps then…strange to me. Thats close to the 80% of 15, being 12 but was still enough. Just standard contactors and breakers for me, and we sometimes pack the circuits full, and all 10 poles lol. Never had a issue. The conduit would heat up a bit more then normal bc of all the circuits and being loaded to the max. Side note, conduit fill does not apply with short nipples. Thanks for sharing your experience, good to know.
