Here’s a 5 head for under $40
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMgUFWP
You might need to get a US adapter for the power cord $2
These things have dropped in price by over 50%
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It seems underpowered with two heads, it’s not able to raise humidity high enough, but is getting close.
Preferably I want it to be powerful enough to raise the humidity higher than what would ever be necessary, just to know that it will always keep up.
I’ll check out that link, I’ve never bought on AliExpress before.
AliExpress is incredibly safe. I wouldn’t worry I’ve been ordering for 20 years
I might buy a few of those five heads and build a few units and sell them.
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I looked at that link but it looks like the $40 is actually just for a 3 head units without power supply, and the power supply raised the price quite a bit. But I’ll continue looking.
If I do choose to buy more single head units, I think I could wire them in parallel into a single plug, as long as the plug can handle the amps. If each mister takes 24V and 1A, and I run 4 at once, I’d need a plug that makes 24V and 4A. Right?
Thanks for the support, it’s cool to see someone else using this method successfully. Now I know I’m not crazy
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Yeah might have been looking at it wrong but they’ve definitely dropped him price significantly since I bought any of them.
I would venture to say that would work with your plugs or simply use a power strip plug them all into the same strip plug the strip into your controller (would do the same thing)
You’re not crazy. This is an excellent setup. I just can’t believe there’s really no one doing it in this fieldI just can’t believe there’s really no one doing it in this field
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I think alot of people have the mentality that if is not exactly by the books or what the experts do, then it’s wrong; IMO that’s why more people don’t do things like this.
I’ve dug a small trench for the tote to sit in so the ducting has less of a harsh angle, so hopefully less condensation.
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I agree this field seems to be follow textbook
After filling the tote with more water, it seems to be performing better because the mist units are floating closer to the duct.
I’m currently using this along with a small store bought humidifier located inside the tent which can last at least 2 days before needing refilled.
The combination of both creates good desired levels.
I plan to order more misting units soon, in hopes of having enough power to remove the second humidifier.
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I noticed the water is electrified by the misting units; I can feel a slight shock when I touch the water. I’m gonna check if this is just one of the two units causing this and replace the bad one. Or is this normal?
I don’t see a fan on your unit.? Do you not use a fan to force the mist into your tent?
I stay away from the plastic misters. I use the steel ones.
Definitely not normal and very dangerous to get shocked from water
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The exhaust fan at the top creates enough passive airflow to suck through the bottom. I was originally using a fan at the bottom, but found this worked fine.
I’m definitely going to need to invest in some better safer misters.
Doing it like this would eliminate the need for having a second humidifier in your tent. This will force all the fog quickly through your exhaust tube into your tent
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I agree, a fan there would make it more effective.
The water is no longer giving off any shock; I’m not sure why it was happening last night. My guess is some of the electric connections got wet when I was setting everything up and have dried since then.
It’s working really good so far
The fan is key
Sorry, but this statement is incorrect. Suppose the exhaust fan at the top of the tent is drawing 100 CFM through the tote. In this case, a second fan at the tote’s air inlet can’t push more than 100 CFM into the tent.
If you try, the tent will puff up until it’s expanded to its max volume. The airflow will then drop to 100 CFM and the inlet fan will be loaded more than is necessary because it will be working against the 100-CFM limit set by the exhaust fan.
If, on the other hand, the inlet fan is pushing < 100 CFM, the airflow will drop to that value and the exhaust fan will be loaded more than is necessary because it’s trying to draw 100 CFM through an inlet that admits less.
If the inlet and exhaust fans are both moving 100 CFM, they’ll be balanced, but the airflow will be unchanged and the extra fan will be superfluous.
If the tote’s air inlet is connected to the tent, though (preferably, somewhere near the top), a second fan can circulate the mist at whatever CFM is desired without affecting the airflow in and out or adding load to the exhaust fan.
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I have almost the exact same setup… but it’s a triple head. With the fan on top blowing in. And a 4” exhaust cut directly in the lid with a 2’ piece of four inch pvc with a 90 degree elbow on the top. Can keep a 25’ x 6’ room wherever I want it… now dehumidification…. That’s a whole other problem! nice setup!
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Three heads are perfect for what we do.
I struggled at first as well with dehumidifying my room as well. These homemade humidifiers are a beast.
After about 2 weeks I just broke down and bought a semi commercial dehumidifier at the flea market for $15 took it home and cleaned it up, it’s a game changer.
I set my ink bird thermostat to let’s say early veg 75% RH and I don’t have to touch anything. Inside the tent will remain 75%RH morning, noon, and night day in and day out.
The dehumidifier and humidifier work in perfect Harmony.
Those little $29 - $50 dehumidifiers do not work
As a matter of fact I went to the Goodwill about a month and a half ago to buy an iron for making hash and I found another commercial dehumidifier (look at the sticker price) $14.99 and it’s basically brand new.
I’ll put that in the dry/cure room
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All I can say is…
I’m not even going to pretend like I understood anything you said. (I’m kind of a retard)
I use a 440 CFM exhaust in my tent to simply remove air in the tent.
I use between 90-100 CFM on my totes fan to blow the air into the tent from my humidifier. There’s four pole fans oscillating inside the tent at all times blowing air in every direction. (Air flow is key)
The tote has one fan and one fan only. The fan does one job (it blows the air/fog from the tote to the tent that’s it)
I’ve been using the setup for over 3 years my tent has never swollen/puffs or exploded. The simple fix for that, remove the vent cover at the bottom of your tent and blow a fan constantly through the bottom. It’s just that simple
Note
I would never put your humidifier outlet tube at the top of your tent. This could allow condensation to drip onto your plants. And that will cause a whole new world of problems.
I have a little catch tray on the floor under the tube that catches all the humidity water that might drip out of the tube
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This setup is working good for me so far.
Using the homemade humidifier and the store bought one together, allows the store bought one to run for probably a week before needing refilled.
The exhaust fan at the top creates enough airflow through the bottom of the tent that I don’t think a fan at the bottom is necessary for me right now, but can definitely understand the benefits. I can see the vapor sucking through, it’s enough suction to feel with your fingers.
I’m very happy with this build and will add extra mist units in the future.
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I’m glad you found a solution to the condensation problem the original ducting route to the tent caused. If you decide to add a fan, though, be sure it draws air from the tent so you have a balanced airflow, equivalent to having the humidifier inside the tent. And open a port at the bottom of the tent so the exhaust fan can draw fresh air through it.
@Lostgirl : Fishi’s setup differs from yours in a crucial way: The sole source of fresh air is the hole in the tote and the sole exit is through the exhaust fan. Consequently, the exhaust fan can’t extract more air than enters through the tote and, if an inlet fan is added, it can’t push more air into the tent than exits via the exhaust fan.
Nor would I, for the reason you noted. It’s the humidifier’s inlet that should be placed near the top.
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