Help me if you can!

Thank you for you help and input is greatly appreciated !!!

Until you didn’t get ppm pen try checking your nutrients’ feeding charts. Make a comparison (as there should be official tables and some other ppl use over web) of ammounts they give at each stage (week) and choose your feeding strategy.
I’m newbie but from what I got, there are 2 main points feeding with fertilizers:

  • the ammount of nuts (solids) in soil should be that big for your plant to manage to eat it. That is ppm they talk about. It doesn’t refer to total amount of nuts you give (as different people give different solution quantities:0.5L, 1L, 2L etc.; and different watering schedules: using nuts each watering or 1/1, 1/2 etc.), but refers to how “balanced” your solution is per unit of water. If you put too much solids (nuts) within particular water amount - the plant can be blocked drinking it (read about water potential and nutrient uptake by plants) until you add more water. If leaves perk after watering - the plant is good with absorbing it’s meal, if curly (plasmolyzed) - too much solids, the plant’s cells are more likely to loose water than to take it that case. Seems you are good at that!
  • it’s important not to under/overwater your plants. Give proper amounts of the solution to get a small runoff but don’t do too often, let it dry. You can also drill the pot to make it aired (smart pot) and use some cloth inside for medium not to get out for proper air injection inside the pot.

I suppose you have a small pot for 6 weeks plant so it can be root balled and probably you should water more often this size of pot.
Maybe try 10+ L pot and water like once/3-4 days.
I would also recommend making an easy flush (1-2 L depending on the pot size) prior to feeding with nutrients.


thank you very informative, I never really thought about flushing what is that and how often should it be done ? Thank you !!

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They usually use flushing (watering with pure water strictly) at the final stage to remove excess amounts of elements from your growing medium that can harm the taste of the product.
The point is - the plant should use all nutrients it has inside at the moment of harvest not to have em in buds.
So the final 1-2 weeks depending on how much (ammounts per watering with nuts solution / number of waterings) you feed.

But some say you should give water first any time you use nutrient solution not to burn your roots and to remove salts built up since your previous feeding. If you don’t use fertilizers - you don’t need to flush (if you use RO water - filtered one, as tap one also contains a number of elements).
That sounds logic to me and I flush my 18L pot with 2-5 L of water before giving 1-2 L of nutrient solution: give 2L RO water to make it moist and salts to dissolve / wait 10-30 min / give 2-3 more L of RO water to wash em out / give nuts solution.
When I started to use RO water and proper nutrients for cannabis, I forgot about my pH problems, there is a bottle of pH Down dusting on a shelf as no need to maintain it. Some proper nutrients as GHE Micro I use has pH buffer inside and seems it works for me.
You should also keep in mind that some components of your medium (“soil”) affects pH (try to google it for better understanding).
Your ph 7 is good (experts will say it could be better - like 6.5; but 7 is not critical, 8 - is bad).
I’ve read a big number of guides and that is nothing untill you start to maintain and follow your own strategy… (like in poker, lets say). Following your logic is much better than just making some steps from guides if you feel what I’m about. All this knowledge you get is just numbers, you need to feel the plant to use it.

One thing I’m sure about is that proper watering - is a cause of 70% success as well as 70% failure on the other side. Good filtered water, proper nutrients and supplements as well as right feeding schedule will make you feel comfortable within your grow.
On the other hand, putting everything that “seems” productive at first sight into your medium (soil) without checking all possible issues beforehand - can cause damage.
For a newbie it’s always better to use basic project management skills :grin:: Plan - Act - Check, changing 1 thing at a time for your understanding what caused this or that result (to be sure).
Read guides on this website - they are very good. There also good guides on growweedeasy & royalqueenseeds sites (I mean in big quantity). Of course you will find some gold articles here and there on the web. You can also use IG or other social media to check peoples XP with an option to chat in comments. Microsoft Excell will be your best diary btw.

Your plants look good, have a nice gro! :fist:t2::hugs:

P.S.: someone posted already about mobile/immobile elements for the plant - good info for understanding deficiencies. You won’t be able to see particular one probably until you are semi-pro one, but it will give you basic knowledge on the issue which is of great demand!
Start with this video on nutrient uptake by the plant: 03 Botany: Plant Nutrition - YouTube

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And one more important point for growing in drain-to-waste mediums (soil as well):
You have to understand that the minimal length of your steps through the grow cycle (each “micro-stage”) = 3-4 days = how often you water your plants.
Once you provided your plant with water - you have a gap / you have to wait till the medium gets dry. If you didn’t manage to add/use smth within this watering, you have to wait for another.

  • You don’t want to stress your roots and medium with extra moist and roots need oxygen…

Of course in critical situations you shouldn’t wait but act and there are several means:

  • the Flush aka 911 - saves your ass if you got pH problems or burnt your baby with nuts, etc. (you give 1-3x pot size pure water amount or more maybe depending on the scale of a problem)
  • foliar spray - the other way to feed the plant when the medium is still wet but you need to react fast to feed the plant. You should even use it on a regular basis before middle flowering stage (foliar feeding after that can get mold inside buds and nuts inside Resin) as a good feeding way.
    Plant eats within leaves much faster and immobile elements can be easily given compared to roots.
    But there is a number of rules and how-to (dosages, time of application, nuts can be used etc.) to discover.
    But anyway, as for me, I always feel my cycle as 3-4 days for the action to be made. And you should prepare for this feeding day (by training, trimming, going to the shop for a new bottle or smth)…
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what are you two talking about ? FISH Where i’m not even going to go there

The here problem is: NUTRIENT BURN


Nutrient Burn is one of the MOST common mistakes a new grower makes,
reason for this is, because a newer grower will use a chemical nutrient
most of the time and listen to the directions on the box. This is a NO NO!
Depending on the age of the plant, size, strain and soil mixture you are using
also has a factor. There is no set guideline when using nutrients, but I can
give you a good example to start out with so you will not burn your plants.
It’s always good to start out light, rather than feed heavy. Remember you can
always add more later, but can not take out when you added to much. Chemical
and Organic nutrients differ. Chemical nutrients are more readily available
and can burn way easier than organics can. Organics are easier for a newer
grower to use, most of the time, and lessen your chances of burning your plants.
I recommend not using more than ½ teaspoon of chemical nutrients per gallon
of water. Unless the plants are very big 5 feet+, then it’s safe to use 1
teaspoon per gallon of water. When your plants first emerge you want to wait
at least 2 weeks before feeding your plants, unless your plants are in a soiless
mixture, like pro mix. The cotyledons (its first set of round looking leaves) are
what give the plant its food until they get the first 2 or 3 sets of leaves. If
your plants are in a soiless mixture and are over the first week of age; you can
feed a weak amount of nutrients, like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water. Soiless
mixtures are different from soil plants and soiless plants need to be fed more
when using this mixture.

I also recommend not feeding more than 1 time a week if using ½ teaspoon per
gallon of water for chemical nutrients. You can feed every other day,( this
goes for chemical and organics) at very weak amounts, but doing this may contribute
to over watering, and for that I do not recommend feeding more than once a week.
Some people feed 2 times a week using like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water… Use 1/4
strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from the 2nd feeding when
using chemical nutrients. It’s very easy to overdo it. When using organics, depending
on which one you’re using, I recommend using 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. When the
plant gets bigger you can work your way up to using more nutrients when the plants
get bigger.

As for soil mixtures, there are a lot of different kinds of soil’s out there. Using a
rich soil mixture is not recommended for seedlings. Seedlings that are under 2
weeks of age you do not want to start them in rich soil, using a seed starter
mixture is one of the safer ways. Seed starter mixtures are weak in nutrients,
so it will not burn the seedlings but will provide them enough to get past seedling
stage, but the downside is you have to transplant into a better soil mixture after 2
weeks of age. If you decide to start with this mixture, do not put your seedlings
into a big pot. Start them out with using a cup or a small pot.

Nutrient Burn causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. They can also be brown
and twisted and crispy looking. Depending on the severity it can show many different
symptoms and shows on lower part of the plant when its young, at older stages it
can move anywhere on the plant.

To fix the problem when you have Nutrient burn, you want to flush out the plants
with lots of water.


Soil should be flushed with lots of water, Use 3 gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
Flush very thoroughly, after plant recovers usually after a week, you can resume using
nutrients after a week or a week 1/2. When you flush your soil, you flush everything out,
a lot of nutrients go with it, including the soil nutrients.

Hydro `````````````````
Change out the reservoir, flush out any lines and clean out the entire system and
replace with plain water for the first hour, then start out with lower parts per
million (PPM)
Its good to clean out your system every 2 weeks and replace with fresh water and
nutrients. Some people change everything every week!

Ahh, nute burn! Stop this by not adding to much chemical/organic nutrients to your
water,foliar feeding. DONT feed more than 1 time a week unless using weak amount,
use 1/4 strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from then on when
using chemical nutrients. Its very easy to overdo it. Causes leaf tips to appear
yellow or burnt. NEVER give nutrients to plants that are under 2 weeks of age, at
this age the soil nutrients are enough to suppliment them untill 2 weeks of age or
more depending on how good your soil is. Using ferts before 2 weeks will almost
likley kill your plants.


Thank you very informative. I have fox big 3 for nutes and have been following their labeled recommendations, so I have been blasting them with big bloom, tiger bloom, I also have used organic banana tea and tea from coffee grounds as well as Epsom salts. I drilled holes in my pots today so the soil could breathe better and dry quicker. Thanks again !!

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I grow with fish emulsions… 5-1-1 for veg. 0-10-10 for bloom…

Im just pretty sure the sardines in topsoil blew G-man’s high :joy::rofl::joy:


I always associated pot with humour…but maybe my age is showing…I kicked off in '69 and rolled my 1st doobie on the back of a Jimi Hendix LP ( Axis Bold as Love) in Tasmania (Van Diemans Land).

Is the mercury pollution in fish oil a risk/factor ?


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Thats a great question. Id think not but never considerd it!

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we live in strange times my friend and I refer you to this article.

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69 I was hitch hiking to florida at the great age of 14, I had been smoking for 3 years up to here mostly the old 5 finger lids for $15, Mexican…

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I flushed my baby today with purified water, so now its wait and see. The soil is saturated so I added some dry soil to top it off and drilled holes in the pot for air circulation and hopely faster drying time. Thank you for this info !!

make sure there is air flow underneath the pots + they do not like sitting in water, keep them raised, I use kids marbles. :man_farmer:

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I have them raised, I use iron grating to get them off the floor. Thank you for that insight !

beware of RUST…Rust never Sleeps !

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Thanks never crossed my mind, I will eventually get this together !! Thanks again for that insight !

We work together !..and thank Mr Bergman and Co for this fab site.

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