Hello, I am 39 days from sprout into my first grow. I could use some help identifiying these spots and discoloration. Things looked awesome until about a week ago.
-What strain, Seed bank, or bag seed (photo or auto) Auto flowers from Platinum Seeds 1 skywalker and 1 blueberry
-Age of plant 39 days
-Method: Soil bottom 2/3 of 5 gallon fabric pot FF Ocean forest and top 1/3 FF Happy Frog
-Vessels: 5 Gallon AC Infinity fabric pot
-PH and TDS of Water, Solution, runoff (if Applicable) RO water 6.5ph
-PPM/TDS or EC of nutrient solution if applicable - ppm before first feed 882 Blueberry and 664 Skywalker
-Method used to measure PH and TDS- PH and TDS Pen
-Indoor or Outdoor if indoor, size of grow space Indoor Ac infinity 2x4 Kit
-Light system List brand and wattage/spectrum Ac Infinity 200W LED
-Actual wattage draw of lights ? Have them set on 8 out of 10 and 18 inches from canopy
-Current Light Schedule 18/6
-Temps; Day, Night Day 75 Night 73
-Humidity; Day, Night Day 57% Night 61% but working on keeping it lower with new dehumidifier
-Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size Ac Infinity 6" fan and filter combo
-AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier, Ac Infinity Humidifier and Govee Life smart Dehumidifier with compressor
-Co2; Yes, No NO co2
I started noticing a few brown spots and red stems on my leafs last week. I have been occassionally adding sensi cal mag xtra at 3ml/gal to my water since I am using RO. I think I should have used it every water or used more. I was told at grow store my soil mix would take me through this week so I was prepared to buy nutes anyway. They told me I did not need grow nutes and to go right to the Sensi Bloom A and B flower nutes. They also told me to use half the dosage. I added 8ml/gal of each on day 35 (4 days ago) I added 3ml/gal cal mag as well. Seeing more new growth with dark green veins and lighter colored leaves. Skywalker is getting more than blueberry but blueberry has always been a bit behind skywalker in growth. alot of the stems are reddish purple. I chalked it up to the genetics at first but now I think it is part of my issue??
What you were told is incorrect. Nitrogen is also required throughout the grow cycle. Nitrogen is particularly important for the first several weeks of flowering as this is when the plant will experience its most rapid foliage growth. Nitrogen is required for optimal foliage growth.
Your plant is a lighter share of green and looks like she needs some nitrogen.
Red / purple stems are perfectly normal. I don’t see anything in particular to worry about with the spots. All plants will develop blemishes. Expect them to come and go as the plant matures. It will be a different story if you start seeing a lot of them on many leaves.
RO water has no pH. Ions must be present in water for a pH to exist and RO contains no ions; however, once anything is introduced into your RO water, then pH adjustment will be necessary. Pure RO will take on the pH of the medium into which it is introduced. Do you know your runoff pH?
Are these runoff numbers, or was the measurement taken of your feed water?
@MidwestGuy Thank you for responding! As for the RO water it does have a ph of 6.5 and tds of .02. The ppm numbers are from my runoff the watering before I purchased the bloom nutes. I was starting to think I may need more Nitrogen. I saw there is some in the bloom but do I need more? Also grow store told me to use the bloom nutes 1/2 strength for autos every other water and advanced nutrients guy told me to use it full strength every water. Should I buy the grow also? TBH It seems the bloom just has a lttle more of everything than the grow. I was starting to lead towards Magnesium or Manganese as one of my issues. So much information I just can’t quite figure it out. I defoliated about 15 leaves with spots from Skywalker as they were in the way of bud sites and about 4 from blueberry. I left all of the others alone as they are not blocking anything yet. The upper half of my plants seem “weak” and very pliable. Is this normal or part of my issue? I am talking about bigger stems and the tiny ones.
@Cap_Ron That is a great chart! Thank you for your help. I saw that basically the bloom has just a bit more of everything the grow has. Do you think it is magnesium or manganese? One chart had me thinking it was P deficient and K excess so I just got confused! LOL
Again, RO has no pH. What you see as a measurement is invalid. It is chemically impossible for RO to have a pH, as the existence of a pH implies that there are ions present in RO. RO contains no ions.
PPM / EC /TDS readings of RO are also invalid. PPM is a measure of dissolved solids in water, and RO contains no dissolved solids by definition.
Once anything is introduced into the water (e.g. nutrients) there will be a detectable pH and PPM/EC/TDS as there are now ions and dissolved solids present in the water.
Not bad advice, though your plant does need more nitrogen. Autos can be more sensitive to nute level than photos are.
A silica product will strengthen plant structure. Nitrogen will also help.
@CannaMom2, what order are mixing the nutrients? The Cal/Mag extra should be first (unless you’re giving silica), then base nutrients, A then B, followed by any additives.
It does look like maybe there’s a bit of a magnesium deficiency, but I think they’ll be fine if you just increase your feedings a bit.
The half strength for autos is a fine way to start out, but often you’ll find that around 3/4 strength or maybe somewhere in between is necessary. I don’t think you try to target any deficiency with individual products, just increase the strength of your solution a small amount.
A reasonable strength for autos in early bloom is around an EC of 1050 to 1175, which would be around 725 to 850ppm in the 700 scale. But don’t go straight to that strength if you’ve been giving them much less than that. Only increase the strength a small amount at a time.
The top of the main stalk usually stays softer and more flexible than the rest of it. It will harden up more a few weeks into flower.
One more thing, the next time you have to restock on the base nutrients, in my opinion it’s well worth it to upgrade from the Sensi line to the Connoisseur line. It’s only a couple of bucks more per liter or gallon, but you can use a bit less and achieve the same EC value, so it’s not really more expensive at all in the long run. Just like the Sensi specs I posted above, the Connoisseur bloom also has a bit more NPK than the grow, plus a better mix of micro nutrients.
What’s your DLI at? Iron deficiency is primarily caused by too much phosphorus and it looks more like a magnesium deficiency to me but more than likely caused by the same problem.
This is magnesium deficiency, it starts at the tips and works its way backwards.
Iron starts at the base and works its way forward effecting young leaves first.
I’m not trying to make enemies just trying to help.
Yes I am leaning towards magnesium. I have some leaves that the tip to about halfway are way lighter than the rest of the leaf. I will take @Cap_Ron advice and feed them a little more next water hopefully that will work it out!
Thank you, definitely going to up the strength of my nutes next feeding. I have to wait until they get thirsty again In retrospect, I probably should have started feeding a week earlier. When I say my water has a ph of 6.5 and .02tds that is from newly installed culligan r/o system. Maybe they mis-label it in saying RO. Not sure but it definitley has a ph of 6.5. When my husband was bringing me PURE water from his hospital laboratory it had a ph of 7. Which is neutral. In its purest form, water has a pH of 7, which is at the exact center of the pH scale. Either way, the advanced nutrients brand has buffering agents in their nutes to make sure your ph is correct when you add them so in the end I guess it doesn’t matter. Just didn’t want you thinking I am a crazy woman! LOL thanks again. Hopefully the increased feed will fix my ladies right up.
What we mean by it doesn’t have a ph is because it’s pure water with no carbonate hardness, because of this it does not have any effect on substrate ph and will take the makeup of it with ease.
Pure water has a ph of 7.0 science tells us this.
But we don’t adjust it, and it’s easier to explain to people it doesn’t have a ph because its PH is irrelevant.
In retrospect, I probably should have started feeding a week earlier. When I say my water has a ph of 6.5 and .02tds that is from newly installed culligan r/o system. Maybe they mis-label it in saying RO. Not sure but it definitley has a ph of 6.5. When my husband was bringing me PURE water from his hospital laboratory it had a ph of 7. Which is neutral. In its purest form, water has a pH of 7, which is at the exact center of the pH scale. Either way, the advanced nutrients brand has buffering agents in their nutes to make sure your ph is correct when you add them so in the end I guess it doesn’t matter. Just didn’t want you thinking I am a crazy woman! LOL thanks again. Hopefully the increased feed will fix my ladies right up.