7 gal fabric pots in a 3x3 tent. The gorilla glue plants are 5 weeks old and about a foot tall at this point, because they were topped to stay shorter.
Here’s the G-hydro carbon filter mounted to one of the top tent poles above my light with ducting leading out the top of the tent with a AC Infinity S6 on top of the tent and ducting going to a window exhaust.
Vegetative Lighting Hours
Ok, let’s go over our options for keeping our plants in vegetative growth
18/6 - the standard veg lighting schedule, nothing wrong with it, should work fine for most people.
16/8 - a couple hours less light but still enough to keep plants in vegetative growth. With more powerful lighting, plants can get their DLI (Daily Light Integral) in 16 hours and don’t need any more for fast growth.
24/0 - I don’t recommend this outside of seedlings/clones/reveg to keep tent warm and temp stable. There are beneficial processes that only happen during the dark period and plants appreciate a break from the light.
Gas lantern method 12/1 - A electricity cost saving method, Run 12 hours of light, then off for 5,5 hours, then turn on light for 1 hour, then off for 5.5 hours. This is used by farmers to interrupt the night cycle with 1 hour of light in the middle of the night to keep plants in a vegetative growing state.
6/2 - constant cycle of 6 hours of light, then off for 2 hours, 6 hours of light, off for 2 hours,etc…Never tried this, short dark cycles to give the plant more breaks during the day, no reason it wouldn’t work.
I’m a fan of 16/8 but I have very strong lights, if you have any doubts whether your lighting is strong enough, do 18/6 for fastest growth.
If saving money on electricity is your main goal, the gas lantern method would be a good one for you to consider, not for fastest growth.
Yep, same thing, I think mine are back to normal color today.
when do you start using DE? Have some laying around and curious about it! do you use it for tent grows as well?
I only use it when I have reason to, like seeing fungus gnats or other bugs walking around on the soil.
really random but I mixed an organic soil I had laying around outside with my roots organic and realized there were some worms in it…bad or good thing? saw some people put worms into their organic mixes, wanted your opinion. Only placed in one pot so I guess it’ll be an experiment hahaha
Should be a good thing, worms are good for the soil. They’re in my outdoor pots.
this would be in my indoor pot, oh boy hope it works out for me to late to sift through lol. The soil was near my tomato plants which grow so well in my yard, must have jumped in the bag lol
It’ll be fine as long as they worms stay in the pot and don’t go cruising around the tent, then you’ll find dried up worms.
The Co-Op near me in East Tennessee just started carrying Fox Farm Ocean Forest.! And they had a coupon in their May magazine for it. I stocked up at $6 a bag! Just saying, check out your local Co-Op if u have one nearby. They carry some nice stuff.
Yeah that’s a great price.
Awesome! I’d buy them out.
Going back tomorrow to pick up more…
@Hellraiser so sorry man the site restricted my usage as it was my first day! Been waiting 24hours to get back to you LOL! I’m using Canna Calmag and it says add 0.5ml per litre of water (2.5ml per GAL) so I’ve started with that today. It’s the first feed with this in it. Would you suggest to up the dosage of Calmag?
No problem, that happens here. That should be enough for seedlings, just keep using it every watering and it should clear up pretty quick.
My goal is to keep it simple, but they are very
clever with their marketing that’s hard to resist those fancy graphics geared toward old pot heads. I wanted to stick to the “Trio”
Just a few examples of things I see discussed a lot on about 5 different forums:
• CalMag - is this something that will become necessary at a certain point as a routine application, or is it for a diagnosed deficiency?
• DE I know hat is stands for, but what’s the goal when using.
• Molasses during flowering
• Sledgehammer- the FFE schedule says to
Flush after weeks 4, 7, and 10. Do you use only Sledgehammer or is flushing solution a universal product that really isn’t brand dependent, and it’s it necessary to flush after 4? If I remember correctly you don’t prescribe nutes until about week 4 for Ocean Forest soil users.
What about Happy Frog users, when did you apply nutes for the first time with the Gorilla Glue plants?
• Lab testing - is there a way to have your plants tested after the harvest, who does it, and how expensive is it?
• TDS meter
I can follow the schedule I think, but it seems that there are a few common denominators amongst growers. What is the purpose of these products. Just a few here:
• Super Thrive
• Bembe
• Cha Ching?
Thanks again guys!
CalMag - If using RO or distilled water or very low ppm tap water, yes you will need this, get a bottle and start giving 3ml/gal with every watering. If using tap water with lots of calcium, you won’t need it.
DE - used to help eradicate bugs that walk around on top of your soil, it cuts them up as they move thru it.
Molasses - I don’t use it, read all about it here Black strap molasses during flower. Your thoughts on it? - #4 by Majiktoker
Sledgehammer - If using Fox Farm nutes, might as well use Sledgehammer. No need to flush if you’ve been using ocean forest and using no nutes at weeks 4 or 7. In Happy Frog, should start nutes at 3rd week, good time to start is after the transplant out of the solo cups or right before. 1/4 to 1/2 dose of feeding schedule. Won’t need to flush at week 4 because you should have just recently transplanted so the first flush you really should do is at week 7 after feeding them for 4 weeks, which is right before transplant to the final pot time,
Lab testing - not being legal in my state, no clue, there are labs on the web that you can send a sample to and they’ll tell you the thc and other stuff for $50 - $65 a sample.
TDS meter - every grower should have one, useful for testing water quality by telling you the amount of dissolved solids in your water/nute mix, can tell you how strong your nute mix is in ppm and EC. Can also be used to see how much nutes is in your soil by testing the runoff with it.
Super Thrive - waste of time snake oil IMO, just use quality ferts, there is no magic there. Have not used in 20 years.
Bembe - Fox Farm molasses replacement product - feeds the microbes in your soil
Cha Ching - Fox Farm add-on product to get more of your money, to enhance late flowering production, never used it.
Well stated 
@Hellraiser first off, I have to thank you for taking the time needed for this thread. It’s become pretty popular. Your patience with us newbies is great.
Secondly, transplanting. I saw someone post an illustration of the benefits of transplanting from a small pot into a larger pot. It was just that, an illustration.
Is this accurate? Am I going to have poor root production because I didn’t transplant?
