First Indoor Grow- I need help

Correction 79 degree*

Wow @Zee your girls are looking awesome, good work!

Thank you @Bubbles.

looking very nice @Zee

Plants look beautiful. Discovering this thread at 11 last night was bad, read every post and went down a rabbit hole of Hellraiser advice.

Lol! I’ve done that.

@Zee your girls are looking really good!!! Awesome job!!

Looks great, nice and healthy. Filling up that tent!

Looking good! :+1::sunglasses:

Just wanted to validate were still looking at calcium residual on the sensitive AK, feed her 1.5ml of calmag plus, 4 days ago. Just straight pH water last time.

Moving to happy frog, just wanted to keep this in mind.

@Hellraiser, sorry that came across as a statement, it was a question for you.

I’d keep giving her calmag ever other watering at this point between the feedings, she may be finally running out of her excess stores of it.

Flushed her today, before transplant, you said 3 gallons, right? I wrote it down, can’t find it. Just pH watered.

Yep, 3 gallons is good, looks like she took it well.

Looking great!

Hell, I think you can shine the light on my thought process. The AK after being flushed earlier, has a few leafs just yellow and black now, not an issue. It has me reading the plant. When we flush, are we flushing the soil, or roots? I need a freaking joint, hope I make sense.

Roots feed off soil, I get it… flushing removes access of built up nutes…what’s in the roots after a flush?

Thanks Oly, the AK is a sensitive one, can’t wait to get them under a SCROG to even her out. I clipped almost all her fan leaves off, she looks drunk.

That’s a good question! Here’s my guess to the answer.
After a flush: Osmosis is still happening and draws the higher concentration of nutes from the root system and flushes it away from the plant. So just washing the soil way is just part the solution. The other part is continuing to provide water to draw the excess nutes from the plant.
When that drains, you truly have a neutral growing medium to build your nute program.

Very logical @OlyBoy98503. I have to respond to a lot of work e mails on a daily basis, so many, I won’t read a book or articles in depth.

However, my interest in growing as a hobby has proven me indifferent, I now know calcium builds up cell walls in plants, increasing their intake/tolerance of heat…

Why would the access build up of calcium force it’s way out of the leaves, verses being flushed out… probably because of the long a$$ root system it has? I need to call it quits for the day.

I’m going to take a stab at this question too, but I’m not sure how accurate my answer is.

Calcium is an immobile nutrient, unlike magnesium or nitrogen which are mobile nutrients. If a plant has a nitrogen deficiency, it can move plant-stored nitrogen from lower leaves to upper leaves. That is why you’ll see signs of chlorosis (yellowing due a deficiency) starting from the bottom of the plant and moving up. Too much nitrogen, store it in the bottom leaves and they get really really green until then burn. The plant is literally moving nitrogen from one part of the plan to another.

Calcium (on the other hand) is immobile. Once the plant delivers the immobile nutrient to the destination, that’s where it stays. And the spots from excess are signs of necrosis (death of the plant tissue). Those spots are dead, but the rest of the leaf should still function as it should.

Leaves that have yellowed due to nitrogen deficiency (chlorosis) will turn green again when nitrogen is fed to the plant. Likewise, you could force chlorosis on a plant by flushing the nitrogen from the plant using water and osmosis will continue pulling the nitrogen from the plan through the roots. Calcium is immobile. It ain’t leaving the plant with flushing. Flushing will remove the calcium that is remaining in the growing medium, but it can’t leech it back out of the plant.

That’s why it appears as though the calcium is being forced out of the leaves. The plant literally has no other way to get rid of the nutrient that overwhelming the plant.

I have no idea how on point that answer is, but that is how I seem to understand it.

GENERALLY SPEAKING: You’ll see issues with mobile nutrients starting with the bottom of the plant and moving up. You’ll notice issues with immobile nutrients on newer growth.

Hopefully someone with more experience can explain it a little better than I can.