Having the filter outside the tent is mostly only for ventilating into the same room the tent is in. Know that heat and humidity control in that room become an issue really quickly. I did that over the winter when the room is normally low 60’s and saw temps sometimes over 80. Humidity was swampy (80%+) without a good dehumidifier in the room.
I didn’t see it in your diagrams, but fan outside and filter inside would give you a real gain in vertical space. Filter standing on end in the bottom corner and duct going straight up and out to the fan on top of the tent.
@DrWoo, @dbrn32, @1HappyPappy, @Bulldognuts
So what exactly are the minimum temperatures I should avoid? Currently, the new grow room is way overly humid. We will be installing a dehumidifier later today to alleviate this. But just so I know what kind of alarms and backup plans and such, at what point am i harming the plants, temperature wise during their lights on and lights out phases?
Same question for humidity.
I will be adding technology to prevent those conditions from ever being possible
I like to run lights on temp around 80f, lights out i really don’t care too much about as will never drop below what ambient temp of my basement is. Then follow vpd charts for rh.
I try stay around 77f day time (73-83ish sometimes) and night drops to around 67f sometimes as low as 57f.
Humidity up untill say 2 weeks or so into flower, I’ll target Humidity up near 70% but stays some where between 60-70%.
Once flowers start, im terrified of mold so i drop Humidity targeting 50% with it staying between 45-55% usely.
This VPD chart will give you numbers to get optimal growth rate but as far as what temps and Humidity can they handle…
At colder temps say below 60f growth rate will slow but long as it doesn’t literally freeze, it want die. It will just grow slow…
Heat wise, with the right environment they can grow in over 100f.
But somewhere around 70-90f is just fine.
Humidity is pretty flexible to honestly.
Of course to be “optimal” following the VPD chart is best but its not necessary if it isn’t possible.
It is said that temperature functions from night and day is best to not be more then 15° different. Like if its 75f day you want try stay above 60f at night and so forth.
According to Bruce Bugbee the ideal temp for fuji is 79F. Below 70 growth slows way down. Above 85 I’d start looking for more ventilation options, but wouldn’t panic at all.
Humidity in veg can be wherever without too much problem, although I’d strive to keep it below 70% long term. Spikes aren’t so much of an issue. In flower, your long term goal is as far below 60% as you can manage. If I get to 55% and hold it I’m happy, 45% is a dream I sometimes have - like Powerball. Possible, but not really likely. Spikes above 60% aren’t much of a concern, but longer periods can lead to mold growth / bud rot.
If you did away with the tubing on the bottom connecting the 2 tents it may work.
I don’t believe it would evacuate the heat from the first tent very well.
It will prefer to use that bottom tube as negative pressure is pulling on it and the intake apears it would be blowing straight at it. Most the air flow would bypass the first tent.
Another concern would be, is the 6in fans big enough for the combined square footage of both and allow for efficiency drops for all the tubing, bends, filter…
But close the bottom connection and it will work if hardware is adequate
@DrWoo , @dbrn32 , @1HappyPappy, @Bulldognuts
So here is where I am at…
The Strawberry Cough and Super Lemon Haze look phenominal.
The Chronic Widow was crammed in the middle before, and she looks rough for it. I suspect having room to stretch and absorb a LOT more light than she is use to should make a world of difference for her over the next week.
Now is the time for design implantations. Last night after the girls had 12.5 hours of beauty sleep, I greeted them good morning and to my horror, saw most every leaf glistening as if the outdoor sprinkler system got turned on. I too almost 2 hours to air out and dry the leaves. Not going to water today and never again before bedtime. I estimate they need more than 8 hours of light needed to air out the tent.
The 6-inch T arrived, as did the 25-ft Black coated aluminum flexible ducting. The ducting has been attached to the “T” and sprayed inside and out with black. Its drying and its dinner time
I don’t have anything to recommend, but i know the cheap units go through a lot of water in comparison to the output, and are extremely slow. I would pay particular attention to gallons per day and make sure you have large enough storage tank.
I have an Aqualife RO Buddie. Mirroring what dbrn says, the waste to RO ratio is about 3 to 1 and takes roughly 17 minutes to generate 1 gallon of RO. On the plus side, the system is easy to hook up to the tap and is relatively inexpensive to purchase. PPM of the RO is 4, so it does work. Just sooo sloooow.
That’s the one. I hooked it to the end of the tap in a largely unused bathroom. It’s slow, but reliably so. 17 minutes per gallon at my water pressure. I’d start it in a 5 gallon bucket, set the timer for 70 minutes and scoop as needed to hit the line.
You’re in the zone. Unless your canopy is really flat I’d target to DLI to the middle tier of buds and watch the higher ones for light damage. I favor stronger lighting and back off when they squeal.
I need to top them and install my netting. I am not looking forward to topping. I am so worried I will do it wrong. I do not really have a “tip” on my plants. They are all so big around and fairly even height all around.